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Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern
4.2β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.5K Made This
βœ‚οΈ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a small tyrannosaurus named Oliver with charming details like a crest, spots and embroidered teeth. It uses two yarn colors and a simple jacquard technique to form a white breast and green back. The pattern includes clear photos showing key steps such as eye embroidery, inserting a cotter pin for a turnable head, and assembling limbs for a steady stance.

Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

You will get full round-by-round instructions for head, body, tail, legs, hands, crests and spots. A bonus mini retro TV set materials list is also included for a playful display companion.

Why You'll Love This Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines classic amigurumi shaping with tiny details that bring the dinosaur to life. I love the little embroidered smile and teeth β€” they give Oliver so much personality. The use of a cotter pin and a small disk makes his head poseable, which I find delightful for display or play. Working the jacquard front for the white breast is clever and gives a neat, professional-looking finish that I always enjoy achieving.

Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Oliver by changing colors; try pastel shades for a soft nursery friend or bright neons for a playful twist.

To make a larger version, switch to a thicker sport or DK yarn and a larger hook; your dinosaur will grow proportionally with each change.

If you prefer a fully poseable toy, add thin floral wire into the tail or limbs before finishing stuffing to allow gentle repositioning.

I often add tiny accessories like a crocheted scarf, a felt bow tie, or a miniature hat to personalize each toy for gifting.

For a safer toy for small children, replace safety eyes with embroidered eyes using black and white floss for durable, baby-friendly features.

Switch up the crest style by making it taller or shorter; add more or fewer crest stitches to alter the silhouette dramatically.

Experiment with embroidered freckles or different spot patterns; place spots asymmetrically for a more organic, natural look.

Try using a boucle or textured yarn for the spots to add tactile interest and a different visual contrast against the smooth body yarn.

I also enjoy adding tiny props like the bonus retro TV or a small crocheted leaf to build a little scene around Oliver for display.

Finally, combine this pattern with other small amigurumi characters to create a little prehistoric family or a themed shelf vignette that tells a story.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers when working rounds and color changes leads to losing track of the start of the round; place a marker at the first single crochet of each round and move it after finishing the round. βœ— Not counting stitches after increases or decreases causes uneven shaping and mismatched pieces; count your stitches after every increase or decrease round to ensure the correct loop totals. βœ— Stuffing too late or too much makes shaping difficult and can distort the toy; stuff gradually, especially around narrow parts, and complete stuffing before final closing rounds. βœ— Forgetting to secure the cotter pin and disk properly can result in an unstable head; follow the instructions to insert the cotter pin into the shim, place the disk on it, and wrap the ends securely with pliers before final assembly.

Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

Make a lovable little Tyrannosaurus named Oliver with this detailed crochet pattern. You will learn shaping, simple jacquard color changes, and secure assembly techniques to create a sturdy, poseable toy that stands on its own. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds, crest and spot details, plus a bonus retro TV set for display. Perfect for crafters who enjoy photo-supported instructions and playful finishing touches.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Tyrannosaurus Oliver Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarn A: Yarnart Jeans color 29 - 160 m/50 gr (Sport, 12 wpi) - main green color
  • 02
    Yarn B: Alize Cotton Gold Tweed color 62 - 330 m/100 gr (Sport, 12 wpi) - secondary color, white breast
  • 03
    Bonus TV set: Yellow yarn (Gazzal Jeans color 1125) - small amount
  • 04
    Bonus TV set: Canvas 'Aida 16 count' color beige - small piece for screen embroidery
  • 05
    Assorted mouline threads: black, white, pink, green for embroidery and spots

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 1.75 mm (for dinosaur main parts)
  • 02
    Crochet hook 1.5 mm (for cheeks, crests and spots)
  • 03
    10 mm safety eyes (2 pcs)
  • 04
    Synthepus or polyester stuffing for filling
  • 05
    Yarn needle (thick needle with blunt end) for sewing and finishing
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Sharp needle for cutting / fixing parts (with a bead on the end recommended)
  • 08
    2 pins or stitch markers
  • 09
    Round-nose pliers
  • 10
    Cotter pin T-shaped 25 x 2.0 mm
  • 11
    Shim 3x20 mm
  • 12
    Disk, diameter 20 mm
  • 13
    Needle-nose pliers (for wrapping cotter pin ends)
  • 14
    Optional: floral wire and small hoop for TV antenna (bonus)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” HEAD (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

7 loops, turning, 6sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 6sc (from the back of the chain) (12l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x6 (18l)

Round 3-4 :

18sc (18l)

Round 5 :

[2sc, inc]x6 (24l)

Round 6-7 :

24sc (24l)

Round 8 :

3sc, [inc]x18, 3sc (42l)

Round 9 :

18sc, 4dc in the next loop, [dec]x4, 4dc in the next loop, 14sc (44l)

Round 10 :

19sc, [2dc in the next loop]x2, sc, 4 sl st, sc, [2dc in the next loop]x2, 15sc (48l)

Round 11-13 :

24sc, 4 sl st, 20sc (48l)

Round 14 :

18sc, [dec]x3, 4sc, [dec]x3, 14sc (42l)

Round 15 :

42sc (42l)

Round 16 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 17 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 18 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Info :

Insert safety eyes between the rounds 7 and 8, the distance between them is approximately 10 stitches, don't fix yet (see photo 1).

Info :

Using the yarn needle to do from above of the eye 'loose stitch' of black thread floss. Separate one thread and fasten with a needle 'loose stitch' in the middle of the eye. Embroider one more 'loose stitch' 1 mm higher than the previous one to get an oval shape. Using yarn needle to do from below the eye 'loose stitch' of white thread floss, separate one thread and fasten with a needle 'loose stitch'. Press the eye to the embroidered line and fasten it.

Round 19-20 :

24sc (24l)

Round 21 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 22 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the head before continuing.

Round 23 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

β€” CREST on the head :

Info :

Crochet crest with a hook 1,5 mm and green mouline threads.

Round 1 :

27 loops, turning, sl st (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), [sl st; crochet in one loop - {sl st, dc, sl st}; sl st]x8, sl st

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a very long end for sewing. Sew the crest to the head, pre-fixing it with needles for cutting, in order to achieve perfect symmetry (see photos 37-39).

β€” NECK and BODY :

Round 1 :

Yarn A 1: 2 loops, 8sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (8l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x8 (16l)

Info :

Next, you need to crochet the body of yarn A and yarn B at once, alternately change the thread, but not cutting it to get a white breast. This technique is called jacquard. Color changing technique: when crocheting the last green sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, crochet this sc to the end with a white thread. Then the green thread is thrown forward, and the white working thread goes backwards. To change the color back: when crocheting the last white sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, crochet this sc to the end with the green thread.

Round 3 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [3sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (20l)

Round 4 :

only through back loops 10sc (Yarn B); 10sc (Yarn A) (20l)

Round 5 :

[4sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [4sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (24l)

Info :

Insert cotter pin in the middle of the neck, put the disk on the cotter pin and wrap the ends in the 'rings' with the help of round-nosed pliers (see photos 55-60).

Round 6 :

12sc (Yarn B); 6sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop (in which the last sc was crocheted before the chain), 6sc (Yarn A) (30l)

Round 7 :

12sc, (Yarn B); 9sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, 9sc (Yarn A) (36l)

Round 8 :

[5sc, inc]x2 (Yarn B); [5sc, inc]x4 (Yarn A) (42l)

Round 9 :

14sc (Yarn B); [6sc, inc]x2, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, [6sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (52l)

Round 10 :

14sc (Yarn B); [7sc, inc]x2, 6sc, [7sc, inc]x2 (Yarn A) (56l)

Round 11 :

14sc (Yarn B); 21sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, 21sc (Yarn A) (62l)

Round 12 :

14sc (Yarn B); 24sc, 4 loops, turning, 3sc starting from the 2nd loop from the hook, sl st in the same loop, 24sc (Yarn A) (68l)

Info :

Don't cut the thread. Take another end of the yarn ball and crochet the tail. At the end of the row, when crocheting the last green sc, insert the hook into the loop, pull out the thread, and crochet this sc to the end with a white thread grabbing it in the place where it remained. A 'loose stitch' is formed on the wrong side. You need to move it forward along with the green thread, so when crocheting jacquard it will be inside and the wrong side will become as neat as the front one.

β€” TAIL (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)

Round 2 :

[inc]x2, dec (5l)

Round 3 :

sc, [inc]x2, dec (6l)

Round 4 :

sc, [inc]x2, sc, dec (7l)

Round 5 :

sc, [inc]x3, sc, dec (9l)

Round 6 :

2sc, inc, sc, inc, 2sc, dec (10l)

Round 7 :

10sc (10l)

Round 8 :

3sc, [inc]x3, 2sc, dec (12l)

Round 9 :

12sc (12l)

Round 10 :

3sc, [inc]x5, 2sc, dec (16l)

Round 11 :

16sc (16l)

Round 12 :

dec, 4sc, [inc]x4, 4sc, dec (18l)

Round 13 :

18sc (18l)

Round 14 :

dec, 5sc, [inc]x4, 5sc, dec (20l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Stuff the tail with synthepus. Mark with a pin the place where the tail connects to the back - move the pin to the 12 loop from the beginning of the round count clockwise.

Info :

Connect the body with the tail in the next round. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the tail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the body (from the outside to the inside). Continue crocheting the body from the place where you left off.

Round 13 (incomplete) :

14sc (Yarn B); crochet 26sc along the body, crochet 2sc of the body together with 2sc of the tail, then crochet 26sc along the body (Yarn A) (see photo 74)

Round 14 :

15sc (Yarn B); crochet 25sc on the body, crochet 18sc on the tail, crochet 26sc on the body (Yarn A) (84l)

Info :

Sew the holes between the body and the tail using extra thread. Start stuffing the body with synthepus.

Round 15 :

15sc (Yarn B); 19sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 20sc (Yarn A) (78l)

Round 16 :

16sc (Yarn B); 15sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 17sc (Yarn A) (72l)

Round 17 :

16sc (Yarn B); 12sc, [dec]x3, 18sc, [dec]x3, 14sc (Yarn A) (66l)

Round 18 :

17sc (Yarn B); 14sc, [sc, dec]x6, 17sc (Yarn A) (60l)

Round 19 :

17sc (Yarn B); 14sc, [dec]x6, 17sc (Yarn A) (54l)

Round 20 :

[7sc, dec]x6 (48l)

Round 21 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 22 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 23 :

[4sc, dec]x6 (30l)

Round 24 :

[3sc, dec]x6 (24l)

Round 25 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 26 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the body. Tip: Cut out a circle of white felt a little larger than the resulting hole and insert it into the hole to prevent stuffing from clinging to hook during closing.

Round 27 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

β€” LEGS, 2 pcs (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

9 loops, turning, 8 sl st (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 8 sl st (from the back of the chain) (16l)

Round 2 :

[7sc, inc]x2 (18l)

Round 3-6 :

18sc (18l)

Round 7 :

3sc, dec, 8sc, dec, 3sc (16l)

Round 8 :

3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 3sc (14l)

Round 9 :

2sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 2sc (12l)

Info :

Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.

Round 10-11 :

12sc (12l)

Round 12 :

sc, [dec]x2, 2sc, [dec]x2, sc (8l)

Round 13 :

sc, dec, 2sc, dec, sc (6l)

Info :

Completely fill the leg, do not stuff further.

Round 14 :

6sc only through back loops (6l)

Round 15 :

4sc, [inc]x2 (8l)

Round 16 :

4sc, [inc]x4 (12l)

Round 17 :

12sc (12l)

Round 18 :

7sc, [inc]x4, sc (16l)

Round 19 :

16sc (16l)

Info :

Change the thread to Yarn B (leave the long end of Yarn A). Remove the pin that marking the beginning of the round. Fold the resulting 16 loops in half and in the next round, crochet both halves together.

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, 8 sl st (8l)

β€” HANDS, 2 pcs (Yarn A) :

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[inc, sc]x3 (9l)

Round 3 :

9sc (9l)

Round 4 :

[inc]x3, [dec]x3 (9l)

Round 5 :

9sc (9l)

Round 6 :

[dec]x3, [inc]x3 (9l)

Info :

Stuff the hand with synthepus.

Round 7 :

[sc, dec]x3 (6l)

Info :

Change the thread to Yarn B, cut the Yarn A thread. Remove the pin that marking the beginning of the round. Fold the resulting 6 loops in half and in the next round, crochet both halves together.

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, 3 sl st (3l)

Round 9 :

1 loop, turning, crochet in 1 loop - {sc, 2 loops, sl st}; sl st; crochet in 1 loop - {sc, 2 loops, sl st}

β€” CREST on the body :

Info :

Crochet crest with a hook 1,5 mm and green mouline threads.

Round 1 :

45 loops, turning, sl st (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), [sl st; crochet in one loop - {sl st, dc, sl st}; sl st]x14, sl st

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a very long end for sewing. Sew the crest to the body, pre-fixing it with needles for cutting, in order to achieve perfect symmetry (see photos 100-102).

β€” SPOTS :

SMALL, 8 pcs :

1: 3 loops, turning, 2sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 2sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (4l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

MIDDLE, 6 pcs :

1: 4 loops, turning, 3sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 3sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (6l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

BIG, 4 pcs :

1: 5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) sl st in 1st sc (8l). Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

β€” ASSEMBLAGE :

Info :

Sew on the spots on the hands, legs, back and tail. Sew your crocheted hands and legs to the body with a threaded bracing (use round-nosed pliers to make it easier to pull the needle). For this, it is necessary: Attach the hands and legs using needles for cutting (hands between 9 and 10 rounds of body, distance between hands approx 16 stitches, legs between 17 and 18 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 26 stitches) - check that the dinosaur stands steadily. Detach the hands and legs without removing the needles from them, and insert other needles for cutting in their place.

Info :

Insert the needle through the back into the hand attachment point (leaving the loose end of the thread outside). Thread the needle through two loops on the inner surface of the hand (the needle for cutting must be in the middle). Insert the needle into the body at the hand attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second hand. Pass the needle through the second hand in the same way. Sew the body and the hands two more times in the same way for strength. Insert the needle at the hand attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the opposite leg. Thread the needle through the leg, insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second leg. Pass the needle through the second leg. Sew the body and the legs two more times in the same way for strength.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach hands and legs using needles for cutting: place hands between rounds 9 and 10 of the body with approx 16 stitches between them; place legs between rounds 17 and 18 with approx 26 stitches between them; check stance before sewing permanently.
  • Insert cotter pin into shim and place it inside the head opening between rounds 14 and 15 of the head, then place disk onto cotter pin and wrap the ends securely with round-nose pliers to create a stable turnable head.
  • Sew hands to the body by inserting the needle through the back into the hand attachment point, thread through two loops on inner surface of the hand, then through the body at the hand attachment point and repeat two more times for strength.
  • Sew legs to the body using the same threaded bracing technique: insert needle at leg attachment point, pull out at opposite leg position, and repeat stitching two more times to secure legs firmly.
  • Pin crests and spots into position on head, back, tail and limbs before sewing to ensure symmetrical placement, then sew using long tails left on each detail.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Mark the first single crochet with a pin or marker at the beginning of each round to keep track of rounds and color-change joins.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff gradually and shape as you go; overstuffing can distort curves and make seaming difficult.
  • πŸ’‘If stuffing shows through your stitches, use a smaller hook or tighter tension to minimize gaps and achieve a neat finish.
  • πŸ’‘Pre-fix small sewn details such as crests and spots with needles before final sewing to achieve precise symmetry.

This charming Tyrannosaurus Oliver pattern combines vintage charm with playful details to create a unique handmade friend. Perfect for gifting or displaying with the included retro TV bonus, it brings a bit of prehistoric fun to your craft table. Enjoy every stitch and watch Oliver come to life! πŸ§ΆπŸ¦–

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

My finished toy was 10.5 cm (4.1 inches) high when using the recommended yarns and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the finished size will change; adjust hook size accordingly and expect tighter stitches with smaller hooks for small details.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases, and reading amigurumi rounds is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience and how much time you spend on embroidery and assembly.