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Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern
4.7★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.9K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a small, detailed ankylosaurus amigurumi named Bruno, complete with plated back, spikes and a club tail. The design uses three yarn colors and includes instructions for spikes, plates, cheeks and a posable tail. Youll get step-by-step rounds, photo references and assembly tips to finish a neat, stable toy.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Techniques include working in rows and rounds, joining parts, embroidering facial features and optional wiring for a movable tail. The pattern also includes a bonus popcorn bucket accessory.

Why You'll Love This Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines charming character detail with clever construction techniques that make assembly satisfying. The mix of small plates, spikes and a club tail gives Bruno a playful yet sturdy look that I adore. I enjoy the way the pattern teaches color changes for a neat edge between tones. It is a rewarding project that yields a highly tactile, gift-worthy amigurumi.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how many ways you can customize this pattern — change the colors to create different dinosaur varieties like greener tones for a more classic look.

You can make Bruno larger or smaller by switching yarn weight and hook size: bulky yarn and a bigger hook will give a chunky cuddly dinosaur, while finer yarn makes a tiny collectible version.

I often adjust plate placement or stitch extra plates for a denser armor look; try alternating sizes or adding a contrasting border around each plate for more visual pop.

If you want a poseable tail, add a thicker gauge wire and secure carefully inside the tail; for a child-safe version simply omit the wire and stuff firmly for a soft tail.

Experiment with eye types — safety eyes give a glossy finish, but embroidered eyes create a softer look ideal for very small children or a vintage style.

Try embroidering different mouth expressions or adding tiny felt accessories like a bow or scarf to personalize Bruno for a gift.

I also like converting the bonus popcorn bucket into a tiny prop like a flowerpot or acorn by changing the colors and filling material.

Want to make a set? Create a family of dinosaurs by adjusting colors and sizes and display them together for a playful collection.

For a more textured finish, try switching to a boucle or tweed yarn for the plates only to give an interesting tactile contrast.

Finally, if youre selling finished pieces, consider adding a small keyring attachment to make a decorative bag charm or ornament version — just reinforce attachments for durability.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the start of each round causes losing track of the row; place a marker at the first single crochet of every round to stay consistent. ✗ Not stuffing the neck tightly enough makes the head flop and misalign; stuff the neck very firmly to ensure the dinosaur holds its head well and use a felt circle to retain stuffing. ✗ Changing yarns without carrying or neat color change technique leaves a messy seam; change color by working half of the single crochet with the old color and the other half with the new color for a clean line. ✗ Forgetting to count loops after increases or decreases leads to incorrect shaping; always count the total loops after each round and correct mistakes immediately to avoid compounding errors.

Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

Make your own chubby Ankylosaurus Bruno with this detailed crochet amigurumi pattern. You will enjoy step-by-step instructions, clear photos, and helpful assembly notes that guide you from head to tail. Perfect for crocheters who love character toys and small, collectible projects. Create a lovable dinosaur with plates, spikes, and a posable tail.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Ankylosaurus Bruno Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Yarn A: Yarnart Jeans - 160 m / 50 g (Sport, 12 wpi) — used for main dark brown parts (color 70 shown)
  • 02
    Yarn B: Alize Cotton Gold Batik - 330 m / 100 g (Sport, 12 wpi) — used for light-brown stripes and body (color 3300 shown)
  • 03
    Yarn C: Alize Cotton Gold Tweed - 330 m / 100 g (Sport, 12 wpi) — used for plates, muzzle and details (color 62 shown)
  • 04
    Bonus popcorn yarn: White, red and yellow yarn (example: Yarn C Alize Cotton Gold Hobby color 56, Gazzal Jeans color 1125) for popcorn bucket

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 1.75 mm (for dinosaur)
  • 02
    Crochet hook 1.5 mm (for cheeks, spikes and plates)
  • 03
    10 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 04
    Black, white and pink threads mouline (embroidery floss)
  • 05
    2 pins or 2 stitch markers
  • 06
    Needles for cutting - with a bead on the end (for fixing parts before sewing)
  • 07
    Synthepus (fiberfill) for filling
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Yarn needle (thick needle with blunt end)
  • 10
    Sewing needle
  • 11
    Round-nose pliers
  • 12
    Cotter pin T-shaped 25 x 2.0 mm
  • 13
    Shim 3x20 mm
  • 14
    Disk, diameter 20 mm
  • 15
    Steel wire, diameter 1.6 mm (optional for tail)
  • 16
    Electrical tape
  • 17
    White cardboard and white felt (for popcorn bucket bonus)
  • 18
    Super Glue 'Moment' and a coin (bonus accessory assembly)

Progress Tracker

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— HEAD :

Round 1 :

Yarn A 1: 11 loops, turning, 10sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (10l)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 8sc, inc (12l)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc (12l)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14l)

Round 5 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14l)

Round 6-7 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc (14l)

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12l)

Round 9 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12l)

Round 10-11 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc (12l)

Round 12 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 10sc, inc (14l)

Round 13 :

1 loop, turning, 14sc only through front loops (14l)

Round 14-15 :

1 loop, turning 14sc (14l)

Round 16 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 10sc, dec (12l)

Round 17 :

1 loop, turning, 12sc only through front loops (12l)

Round 18 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 8sc, dec (10l)

Round 19 :

1 loop, turning, [dec]x2, 2sc, [dec]x2 (6l)

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, 6sc (6l)

Round 21 :

1 loop, turning, 6sc only through front loops (6l)

Round 22 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 2sc, dec (4l)

Info :

Next change the color to yarn B. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the next row crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the sc with dark-brown (yarn A), and the other half with light-brown (yarn B).

Round 23 :

22sc up; 10sc straight; 22sc down; 4sc straight (58l) (see photos 1-3)

Info :

Next cut the yarn A and continue crocheting with yarn B only!

Round 24 :

4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 18sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 8sc (54l)

Round 25-27 :

54sc (54l)

Round 28 :

[7sc, dec]x6 (48l)

Round 29 :

[6sc, dec]x6 (42l)

Round 30 :

[5sc, dec]x6 (36l)

Round 31 :

[sc, dec]x12 (24l)

MUZZLE (Yarn C) :

1: 5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x4 (12l)

Round 3 :

12sc, sl st in the 1st sc (12l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing (see photo 4). Sew the muzzle to the head as shown on photo 5.

Info :

Insert safety eyes between the rounds 26 and 27, the distance between them is approximately 12 stitches, don’t fix yet (see photo 6).

Info :

Using the yarn needle to do from above of the eye 'loose stitch' of black thread floss (see photos 7, 8). Separate one thread and fasten with a needle 'loose stitch' in the middle of the eye. Embroider one more 'loose stitch' 1 mm higher to get an oval shape. Using yarn needle from below the eye 'loose stitch' of white thread floss to fasten eye to embroidered line. Divide the black threads floss in half, embroider the nostrils and mouth.

CHEEKS, 2 pcs (Pink threads mouline) :

Crochet cheeks with a hook 1,5 mm. 1: 2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring), sl st in 1st sc (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Sew the cheeks to the head with the wrong side outward (see photos 29, 30). Start stuffing the head with synthepus and continue crocheting.

Round 32 :

[dec]x12 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the head. Insert cotter pin into shim (see photo 31). Place cotter pin between 31 and 32 round of the head as shown on photos 32, 33.

Round 33 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

— SPIKES (Yarn C) :

Info :

Crochet spikes with a hook 1,5 mm, split Yarn C in half!

SMALL, 2 pcs - Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)

Round 2 :

4sc (4l)

Round 3 :

[inc]x4 (8l)

Round 4 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Round 5 :

10sc (10l)

Round 6 :

[4sc, inc]x2 (12l)

Round 7-8 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Slightly stuff the spikes with synthepus and sew it to the head.

BIG, 2 pcs - Round 1 :

2 loops, 3sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (3l)

Round 2 :

sc, inc, sc (4l)

Round 3 :

[sc, inc]x2 (6l)

Round 4 :

[inc]x6 (12l)

Round 5 :

[2sc, inc]x4 (16l)

Round 6 :

16sc (16l)

Round 7 :

[7sc, inc]x2 (18l)

Round 8-9 :

18sc (18l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Slightly stuff the spikes with synthepus and sew it to the head (see photos 34-36).

— TAIL (Yarn A) :

Info :

Tail club is crocheted in two identical details. Crochet the first detail as follows below:

Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x3 (9l)

Round 3 :

9sc (9l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Crochet the second detail according to the same scheme, do not cut the thread.

Round 6 (incomplete round) :

crochet 3sc of the first detail together with 3sc of the second detail, then crochet 6sc along the second detail (see photo 39)

Round 7 :

crochet 6sc on the first part, crochet 6sc on the second part (12l) (see photo 40-42)

Round 6 :

[4sc, dec]x2 (10l) Slightly stuff the tail with synthepus

Round 7 :

[3sc, dec]x2 (8l)

Round 8 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6l)

Round 9-10 :

6sc (6l)

Round 11 :

sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (8l)

Round 12 :

8sc (8l)

Round 13 :

2sc, [inc]x2, 4sc (10l)

Round 14 :

10sc (10l)

Round 15 :

3sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (12l)

Round 16 :

5sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (14l)

Round 17 :

7sc, [inc]x2, 5sc (16l)

Round 18 :

8sc, [inc]x2, 6sc (18l)

Info :

Cut a piece of decorative wire approximately 12 cm (4.7 inches). Twist one end of the wire into a loop, and twist the other end into the ring (of diameter equal to the tail opening) with the help of round nose pliers. Wrap the place of twisting with electrical tape. Insert crochet tail to the wire.

Info :

Crochet and fix the wire on three points to the tail – every 6th sc, crocheting the next round. If you decide not to use wire, then stuff the tail with synthepus.

Round 19 :

18sc (18l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread. Mark with a pin the place where the tail connect to the back - move the pin to the 12th loop right from the beginning of the round (see photo 51).

— BODY :

BACK (Yarn A) Round 1 :

14 loops, turning, 13sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (13l)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, 13sc (13l)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 11sc, inc (15l)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, 15sc only through front loops (15l)

Round 5 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 13sc, inc (17l)

Round 6 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc (17l)

Round 7 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 15sc, inc (19l)

Round 8 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19l)

Round 9-11 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc (19l)

Round 12 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc only through front loops (19l)

Round 13 :

1 loop, turning, 19sc (19l)

Round 14 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 15sc, dec (17l)

Round 15 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc (17l)

Round 16 :

1 loop, turning, 17sc only through front loops (17l)

Round 17 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 13sc, dec (15l)

Round 18 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 11sc, dec (13l)

Round 19 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 9sc, dec (11l)

Round 20 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 7sc, dec only through front loops (9l)

Round 21 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 5sc, dec (7l)

Round 22 :

1 loop, turning, dec, 3sc, dec (5l)

Info :

Connect the back with the tail in the next round. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the tail (from the inside to the outside), and then into the back (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 52-55).

Round 23 :

1 loop, turning, crochet 5sc of the back together with 5sc of the tail (see photo 56)

Info :

Next change the color to yarn B. To get a beautiful line when changing color in the next row (the same way as for the head) crochet part of the sc in this way - half of the sc with dark-brown (yarn A), and the other half with light-brown (yarn B).

Info :

Crochet the body around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the point 'Start' (see photo 57).

Round 24 :

crochet 22sc, 13sc, 22sc on the back; crochet 13sc on the tail (70l) (see photos 58, 59)

Info :

Sew the holes between the tail and the back using extra thread (see photo 60).

Info :

Next cut the yarn A and continue crocheting with yarn B only!

Round 25-27 :

70sc (70l)

Round 28 :

[5sc, dec]x10 (60l)

Round 29 :

[8sc, dec]x6 (54l)

— NECK (Yarn C) :

Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook) (4l)

Round 2 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 2sc, inc (6l)

Round 3 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 4sc, inc (8l)

Round 4 :

1 loop, turning, inc, 6sc, inc (10l)

Round 5-9 :

10sc (10l)

Info :

Crochet the neck around the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction from the point 'Start' (see photo 61).

Round 10 :

8sc down; 4sc straight; 8sc up, 10sc straight (30l)

Info :

Mark with a pin the place where the neck connect to the body - move the pin for 1 loop right from the beginning of the round (see photo 62). Cut and fix the thread.

Info :

Continue crochet the body, change the thread to yarn C. Connect the body with the neck in the next round. To connect the details insert the hook initially into the neck (from the inside to the outside), and then into the body (from the outside to the inside) (see photos 63-67).

Round 30 :

crochet 9sc, dec, 7sc along the body; crochet 10sc of the body together with 10sc of the neck; then crochet 2sc, dec, [9sc, dec]x2 along the body (60l) (see photo 68)

Round 31-33 :

60sc (60l) (see photo 69)

Info :

Insert cotter pin between 6 and 7 row of the neck (in the middle, see photos 70, 71). Put the disk on cotter pin and wrap the ends in the 'rings' with the help of round-nosed pliers (see photos 72-75).

Round 34 :

[3sc, dec]x12 (48l)

Round 35 :

[2sc, dec]x12 (36l)

Info :

Start stuffing the body with synthepus.

Round 36 :

[sc, dec]x12 (24l)

Round 37 :

[2sc, dec]x6 (18l)

Round 38 :

[sc, dec]x6 (12l)

Info :

Completely fill the body.

Round 39 :

[dec]x6 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure. Sew the holes between the neck and the body using extra thread (see photos 77, 78).

— PLATES (Yarn C) :

Info :

Crochet plates with a hook 1,5 mm, split Yarn C in half!

SMALL, 8 pcs - Round 1 :

2 loops, 4sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (4l)

Round 2 :

[sc, inc]x2 (6l)

Round 3 :

6sc (6l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

MIDDLE, 10 pcs - Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

[2sc, inc]x2 (8l)

Round 3 :

8sc (8l)

Round 4 :

[3sc, inc]x2 (10l)

Info :

Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

BIG, 4 pcs - Round 1 :

2 loops, 6sc in 2nd loop from hook (amigurumi ring) (6l)

Round 2 :

sc, inc, sc (4l)

Round 3 :

[2sc, inc]x3 (12l)

Round 4-5 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Slightly stuff the plates with synthepus. Cut and fix the thread, leaving a long end for sewing (see photo 79). Sew the plates to the back, placing them on the lines of the remaining back loops in a checkerboard pattern as shown on photos 80, 81.

— LEGS (Yarn B) :

FRONT, 2 pcs - Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8l)

Round 2 :

3sc in the next loop, 6sc, 3sc in the next loop (12l)

Round 3 :

only through back loops 12sc (12l)

Round 4-5 :

[inc]x2, 3sc, {sc3tog}*, 4sc (12l) *{sc3tog} – sc next 3 stitches together

Round 6 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 7 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.

Round 8 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 9-14 :

12sc (12l)

Round 15 :

[sc, dec]x4 (8l) Completely fill the leg.

BACK, 2 pcs - Round 1 :

5 loops, turning, 4sc (starting from the 2nd loop from the hook), 4sc (from the back of the chain) (8l)

Round 2 :

3sc in the next loop, 6sc, 3sc in the next loop (12l)

Round 3 :

only through back loops 12sc (12l)

Round 4-5 :

[inc]x2, 3sc, {sc3tog}*, 4sc (12l)

Round 6 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 7 :

12sc (12l)

Info :

Start stuffing the leg with synthepus.

Round 8 :

[dec]x2, 3sc, [inc]x2, 3sc (12l)

Round 9-12 :

12sc (12l)

Round 13 :

[sc, dec]x4 (8l)

Round 14 :

[2sc, dec]x2 (6l)

Info :

Trim the thread. Pass the thread through all the loops using a yarn needle. Tighten and secure.

THOES, 3 pcs on each leg (Yarn C, in two folds) :

Embroider 3 toes on each leg with French knot (see photos 85-90).

— ASSEMBLAGE :

Info :

Sew your crocheted legs to the body with a threaded bracing (use round-nosed pliers to make it easier to pull the needle). For this, it is necessary: Attach the legs using needles for cutting (front legs between 29 and 30 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 24 stitches, back legs between 25 and 26 rounds of body, distance between legs approx 16 stitches - view from above, see photos 91-93). Check that the dinosaur stand steadily. Detach the arms and legs without removing the needles from them, and insert other needles for cutting in their place (see photo 94, 95).

Info :

Insert the needle through the back into the front leg attachment point (leaving the loose end of the thread outside) (see photo 96, 97). Thread the needle through two loops on the inner surface of the leg (the needle for cutting must be in the middle) (see photo 98).

Info :

Insert the needle into the body at the leg attachment point and pull out it at the point of attachment of the second leg (see photo 99). Sew the legs securely and weave in ends.

Info :

Fix the cotter pin and disk in the neck for head attachment (photos 70-75). If you used wire in the tail, insert the crochet tail to the wire and fix. Sew plates and spikes according to photo reference positions. Embroider final face details and eyebrows with black threads floss as indicated in photos.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the legs using cutting needles: front legs between rounds 29 and 30 of the body with approx 24 stitches between them, and back legs between rounds 25 and 26 with approx 16 stitches between them; check stability before final sewing.
  • Insert the cotter pin into the shim and place it between rounds 31 and 32 of the head; insert the cotter pin between rows 6 and 7 of the neck and mount the disk, wrapping and securing the ring ends with round-nose pliers to allow head rotation.
  • Sew the plates and spikes onto the back following the checkerboard layout shown in the photos, placing small, middle and big plates on the indicated back loops for an even pattern.
  • If using wire for the tail, twist one end into a loop and the other into a ring, wrap the twist with electrical tape, insert the wire into the tail, and crochet the wire into the tail every 6th sc to secure it.
  • Sew the muzzle, cheeks and embroidered features: fix the muzzle with a long thread, position the cheeks with wrong side outward, embroider nostrils, mouth and eyebrows with black thread floss and fasten eyes with white floss backing as described.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the first single crochet of each round; this helps you keep the correct round count and maintain symmetry.
  • 💡Stuff the neck very tightly so that the dinosaur holds its head well; if necessary, cut a felt circle slightly larger than the resulting hole to keep stuffing from clinging to hardware when closing.
  • 💡The wire in the tail is optional and should be used with caution as it is not safe for babies and young children; leave it out if making a toy for small children.
  • 💡When changing yarn colors for a clean line, work half of the single crochet with the old color and the other half with the new color to create a neat transition.
  • 💡Weave in ends and secure threads as you go to avoid bulky seams and make final finishing easier.

This adorable Ankylosaurus Bruno is a small, character-rich amigurumi with plates, spikes and a club tail that make it a delightful handmade friend. The pattern includes detailed rounds, photo references and clever assembly tips to help you finish a tidy, stable toy. Perfect for gifting or adding to your mini-dinosaur collection! 🦕🧶

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished toy measures approximately 7 cm (2.8 inches) high and 12 cm (4.7 inches) in length without the tail when using the recommended yarn and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but the final size will change; adjust your hook accordingly and ensure small parts (spikes, plates) are still neat—a smaller hook will give tighter stitches.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes you know basic amigurumi techniques like single crochet, increases, decreases, working in back/front loops, and sewing pieces together.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in about 5-7 hours depending on experience, assembly time and how many details (plates, spikes) you sew on.