🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Crochet Pumpkin Pattern

Crochet Pumpkin Pattern
4.2★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.4K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Crochet Pumpkin Pattern

This pattern creates a collection of small to large crocheted pumpkins with a segmented, ridged look made using linked double crochet stitches. You will learn how to crochet pumpkins in the round, finish them with an internal shaping technique, and attach neat stems. The pattern includes variations for different sizes (A-F) and step-by-step photos to guide you.

Crochet Pumpkin Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Designed using worsted cotton yarn, the pumpkins have a dense fabric that hides stuffing and creates distinct segments. Helpful tips on invisible decreases and stem construction make finishing professional-looking and easy.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Pumpkin Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it gives beautiful ridged pumpkins without sewing a rectangle or tying strings, which makes the finished pieces neater and more durable. I enjoyed discovering how linked double crochet in the back loop can create such a lovely texture and structure. The pattern is versatile so I can make tiny pumpkins for tablescapes or large ones for seasonal displays. I also love that the wrong side has a different look, giving two style options from one pattern.

Crochet Pumpkin Pattern step 1 - construction progress Crochet Pumpkin Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Crochet Pumpkin Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Crochet Pumpkin Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize these pumpkins by changing yarn colors; try creams, deep oranges, or variegated yarns for different looks.

I sometimes use bulky yarn and a larger hook to make oversized, squishy pumpkins for cuddly decor.

For mini keychain pumpkins, I use fingering weight yarn with a small hook and reduce the stuffing for a compact shape.

I often add embroidered faces or stitched veins on the segments to give my pumpkins personality and seasonal charm.

Try using a metallic or sparkly yarn for a festive table display or holiday ornament versions of the pattern.

I experiment with different stem styles: a tightly rolled crocheted tube, a crocheted spiral, or a short felted stem for texture contrast.

To create a garland, make several small pumpkins in matching or alternating colors and sew them onto a length of yarn at even intervals.

I sometimes add a crocheted leaf or vine attached at the stem using a contrasting green yarn for a natural touch.

If you want a rustic look, try crocheting with natural jute or a recycled cotton worsted to give a textured, earthy finish.

I recommend testing gauge and adjusting hook size to control final pumpkin height and density; swapping hooks is an easy way to switch the finished size.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the beginning of rounds makes it hard to track rounds and leads to misplaced decreases; always place a marker on the first stitch of each round and move it each round. ✗ Understuffing or stuffing unevenly results in flat or lumpy pumpkins; stuff gradually and firmly before finishing decrease rounds to keep consistent shape. ✗ Using the recommended hook or larger can cause stuffing to show through the fabric; use the smaller hook size suggested to create a denser fabric that hides stuffing. ✗ Forgetting to make slip stitches in the previous round's slip stitch position will change your segment placement; follow the instructions exactly and make slip stitches under both loops where specified. ✗ Rushing invisible decrease techniques can make awkward gaps in your segment joins; work invisible decreases carefully and check the tutorial photos to match tension and placement. ✗ Not turning pieces inside out for the B and E variants will give the wrong textured appearance; follow the 'turn inside out before stuffing' instruction for those versions.

Crochet Pumpkin Pattern

Create a charming set of crocheted pumpkins perfect for autumn decor and gift-giving. This pattern teaches linked double crochet segments so your pumpkins form their ridged shape as you work. You will make several sizes, plus stems, with clear step-by-step instructions and helpful photos.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Pumpkin Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (Medium/4) - Lily Sugar & Cream Soft Ecru - 1 small skein for sizes A, B & C
  • 02
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (Medium/4) - Lily Sugar & Cream Warm Brown - 1 small skein for sizes A, B & C (plus stems require small amounts)
  • 03
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (Medium/4) - Lily Sugar & Cream Tangerine - 1 small skein for sizes A, B & C
  • 04
    Bernat Handicrafter Cotton - Jute - small skeins as accent for stems
  • 05
    Yarn quantities: 1 small skein for A, B & C; 2 small skeins for D & E; 3 small skeins for F
  • 06
    Yarn specs: Wraps per inch: 9 wpi, Meterage: 120 yards / 109 meters, Unit Weight: 2.5 ounces / 70.9 grams, Fibers: 100% Cotton

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 4.0mm (G) for stems and details
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 4.5mm (US 7) for pumpkin body (H)
  • 03
    Stitch markers
  • 04
    Darning needle / yarn needle for sewing and finishing
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Polyester stuffing (fiberfill)
  • 07
    Pins for assembly (optional)
  • 08
    Tape measure or ruler to check gauge

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Notes :

Infos :

Tips and Extra Information: Crochet the pumpkin in continuous rounds, marking the first stitch of each round with a stitch marker to track your progress. A smaller hook size than the recommended hook size is used to create a denser fabric, so that your stuffing doesn't show. The slip stitches are always made in the previous row slip stitches, and is made under both loops. Extra information in the pattern is printed in italics to provide additional clarity when needed. Photo's are placed at the end of this document so that you have the option to print only the written instructions and consult the photo's on your tablet or computer. This pattern is written in US terminology.

— Special Stitches :

Infos :

starting linked double crochet in Back Loop (starting l-dc in BL): ch 2, insert H in second ch from H and pull up a loop (photos 7-8), insert H in BL of next st and pull up a loop (3 loops on H, photos 8-9), (YOH and pull through 2 loops) x 2 (photos 10-11). linked double crochet in Back Loop (l-dc in BL): insert H behind the horizontal part of the st just made (photo 11-12, the horizontal part is formed by the middle loop of the 3 loops on the H from the previous step) and pull up a loop (photo 13), insert H in BL of indicated st and pull up a loop (photo 14), (YOH and pull through 2 loops) x 2 (photo 15). 2 single crochet together (2sc-tog): insert H into indicated st and pull up a loop, insert H into next st and pull up a loop (3 loops on H), YOH and pull through all 3 loops. 2 single crochet together in Back Loop with invisible decrease method (2sc-tog in BL): insert H into BL of first st (photos 24-25), insert H into BL of next st (insert your H in the same way, from front to back, photo 26), YOH and pull through both back loops (2 loops on H, photo 27), YOH and pull through both loops (photo 28). 3 single crochet together in Back Loop with invisible decrease method (3sc-tog in BL): insert H into BL of st, insert H into BL of next st (insert your H in the same way, from front to back) AND in the BL of the next st, YOH and pull through a 3 back loops (2 loops on H), YOH and pull through both loops (photos 38-41). single crochet in Back Loop (sc in BL): Insert your H from the top between the two top loops of the st and let your H come out at the back (you've now inserted your H under the back loop only), complete a normal single crochet. slip stitch in Back Loop (sl st in BL): Insert your H from the top between the two top loops of the st and let your H come out at the back (you've now inserted your H under the back loop only), complete a normal slip stitch.

— Small Pumpkin A :

Info :

With 4.5mm H, ch2.

Round 1 :

in second ch from H, make 6 sc, (don't end the round, simply begin next round sts) [6 sts]

Round 2 :

*sl st in next st (photos 1-3), sc in same st* (photo 4), mark first sl st with a SM, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 5), [12 sts]

Round 3 :

*sl st in next st (from here on, all sl sts will always be in the sl st of the prev round and is made under both loops, photo 6, all other sts in the BL), starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 7-11), 2 l-dc in BL of same st* (photos 11-16), rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 17), [24 sts]

Round 4 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 18-19), l-dc in BL of same st (photo 20), (2 l-dc in BL of next st) x 2 (photo 21)*, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 22), [42 sts]

Round 5-9 :

(sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of each of next 5 sts, photo 23) x 6, [42sts]

Round 10 :

*sl st in next st, (2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts (photo 24) with invisible decrease method, photos 24-28) x 3 (photos 29-35)*, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 36), [24 sts]

Round 11 :

sl st in next st 1 row below (photo 37), sc in BL of each of next 3 sts, [24 sts]

Round 12 :

(sl st, 3sc-tog in BL of next 3 sts with invisible decrease method, photos 38-41) x 6, [12 sts] stuff the pumpkin before the next round, make sure to stuff it firmly, photo 42

Round 13 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of next st, [12 sts]

Round 14 :

(2sc-tog over next 2 sts) x 6 (these are normal 2sc-tog under both loops of the sc and sl st), [6 sts], sl st into next st, leave a long tail and cut the yarn, fasten off.

— Small Pumpkin B :

Info :

Pumpkin B has the appearance of bumps and looks a little bigger than Pumpkin A, however, it is the exact same pattern as for Pumpkin A, it is simply turned inside out! Repeat the pattern for Pumpkin A, but before you stuff it, turn it inside out, then complete the instructions as for Pumpkin A.

— Small Pumpkin C :

Info :

This pumpkin is slightly bigger than the smallest pumpkin. It is the same pattern as for Pumpkin A, but with two extra rows after Row 9, making it slightly higher.

Info :

With 4.5mm H, ch2.

Round 1 :

in second ch from H, make 6 sc, (don't end the round, simply begin next round sts) [6 sts]

Round 2 :

*sl st in next st (photos 1-3), sc in same st* (photo 4), mark first sl st with a SM, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 5), [12 sts]

Round 3 :

*sl st in next st (from here on, all sl sts will always be in the sl st of the prev round and is made under both loops, photo 6, all other sts in the BL), starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 7-11), 2 l-dc in BL of same st* (photos 11-16), rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 17), [24 sts]

Round 4 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 18-19), l-dc in BL of same st (photo 20), (2 l-dc in BL of next st) x 2 (photo 21)*, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 22), [42 sts]

Round 5-11 :

(sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of each of next 5 sts, photo 23) x 6, [42 sts]

Round 12 :

*sl st in next st, (2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts (photo 24) with invisible decrease method, photos 24-28) x 3 (photos 29-35)*, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 36), [24 sts]

Round 13 :

sl st in next st 1 row below (photo 37), sc in BL of each of next 3 sts, [24 sts]

Round 14 :

(sl st, 3sc-tog in BL of next 3 sts with invisible decrease method, photos 38-41) x 6, [12 sts] stuff the pumpkin before the next round, make sure to stuff it firmly, photo 42

Round 15 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of next st, [12 sts]

Round 16 :

(2sc-tog over next 2 sts) x 6 (these are normal 2sc-tog under both loops of the sc and sl st), [6 sts], sl st into next st, leave a long tail and cut the yarn, fasten off.

— Large Pumpkin D :

Info :

With 4.5mm H, ch2.

Round 1 :

in second ch from H, make 6 sc, (don't end the round, simply begin next round sts) [6 sts]

Round 2 :

*sl st in next st (photos 1-3), sc in same st* (photo 4), mark first sl st with a SM, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 5), [12 sts]

Round 3 :

*sl st in next st (from here on, all sl sts will always be in the sl st of the prev round and is made under both loops, photo 6, all other sts in the BL), starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 7-11), 2 l-dc in BL of same st* (photos 11-16), rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 17), [24 sts]

Round 4 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 18-19), l-dc in BL of same st (photo 20), (2 l-dc in BL of next st) x 2 (photo 21)*, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 22), [42 sts]

Round 5 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of same st, l-dc in BL of each of next 4 sts, 2 l-dc in BL of next st*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [54 sts]

Round 6 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of same st, l-dc in BL of each of next 6 sts, 2 l-dc in BL of next st*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [66 sts]

Round 7-13 :

(sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of each of next 9 sts) x 6, [66 sts]

Round 14 :

see photos 24-27 of small pumpkin, *sl st in next st, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method, sc in BL of each of next 6 sts, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [54 sts]

Round 15 :

sl st in next st 1 row below (photo 37), sc in BL of each of next 8 sts, [54 sts]

Round 16 :

*sl st in next st, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method, sc in BL of each of next 4 sts, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [42 sts]

Round 17 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of each of next 6 sts, [42 sts]

Round 18 :

*sl st in next st, (2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method) x 3*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [24 sts]

Round 19 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of each of next 3 sts, [24 sts] stuff the pumpkin before the next round, make sure to stuff it firmly

Round 20 :

(sl st, 3sc-tog in BL of next 3 sts with invisible decrease method, photos 38-41) x 6, [12 sts]

Round 21 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of next st x 6, [12 sts]

Round 22 :

(2sc-tog in next 2 sts) x 6, [6 sts] these are normal 2sc-tog under both loops of the sc and sl st, sl st into next st, leave a long tail and cut the yarn, fasten off.

— Large Pumpkin E :

Info :

Pumpkin E has the appearance of bumps and looks a little bigger than Pumpkin D, however, it is the exact same pattern as for Pumpkin D, it is simply turned inside out. Repeat the pattern for Pumpkin D, but before you stuff it, turn it inside out, then complete the instructions as for Pumpkin D.

— Large Pumpkin F :

Info :

Pumpkin F follows the same pattern as Pumpkin D but includes extra rows to increase its height. When stuffed firmly, the width will also expand, creating the illusion of a larger pumpkin.

Info :

With 4.5mm H, ch2.

Round 1 :

in second ch from H, make 6 sc, (don't end the round, simply begin next round sts) [6 sts]

Round 2 :

*sl st in next st (photos 1-3), sc in same st* (photo 4), mark first sl st with a SM, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 5), [12 sts]

Round 3 :

*sl st in next st (from here on, all sl sts will always be in the sl st of the prev round and is made under both loops, photo 6, all other sts in the BL), starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 7-11), 2 l-dc in BL of same st* (photos 11-16), rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 17), [24 sts]

Round 4 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st (photos 18-19), l-dc in BL of same st (photo 20), (2 l-dc in BL of next st) x 2 (photo 21)*, rep from * to * another 5 times (photo 22), [42 sts]

Round 5 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of same st, l-dc in BL of each of next 4 sts, 2 l-dc in BL of next st*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [54 sts]

Round 6 :

*sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of same st, l-dc in BL of each of next 6 sts, 2 l-dc in BL of next st*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [66 sts]

Round 7-19 :

(sl st in next st, starting-l-dc in BL of next st, l-dc in BL of each of next 9 sts) x 6, [66 sts]

Round 20 :

see photos 24-27 of small pumpkin, *sl st in next st, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method, sc in BL of each of next 6 sts, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [54 sts]

Round 21 :

sl st in next st 1 row below (photo 37), sc in BL of each of next 8 sts, [54 sts]

Round 22 :

*sl st in next st, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method, sc in BL of each of next 4 sts, 2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [42 sts]

Round 23 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of each of next 6 sts, [42 sts]

Round 24 :

*sl st in next st, (2sc-tog in BL of next 2 sts with invisible decrease method) x 3*, rep from * to * another 5 times, [24 sts]

Round 25 :

sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of each of next 3 sts, [24 sts] stuff the pumpkin before the next round, make sure to stuff it firmly

Round 26 :

(sl st, 3sc-tog in BL of next 3 sts with invisible decrease method, photos 38-41) x 6, [12 sts]

Round 27 :

(sl st in next st 1 row below, sc in BL of next st) x 6, [12 sts]

Round 28 :

(2sc-tog in next 2 sts) x 6, [6 sts] these are normal 2sc-tog under both loops of the sc and sl st, sl st into next st, leave a long tail and cut the yarn, fasten off.

— Small Stem :

Info :

Use this stem for the smaller pumpkins A, B and C

Round 1 :

With a 4mm H, ch 10

Row 1 :

sc in 2nd ch from H and in next 5 ch, sl st in last 3 ch [9 sts]

Row 2 :

ch 1, sl st in BL of next 3 sts, sc in BL of next 6 sts,

Row 3 :

ch 1, sc in BL of next 6 sts, sl st in BL of next 3 sts

Rows 4-7 :

rep Rows 2-3 another 2 times, fasten off, leaving a long tail.

— Large Stem :

Info :

Use this stem for the larger pumpkins D, E and F

Round 1 :

With a 4mm H, ch 13

Row 1 :

sc in 2nd ch from H and in next 6 ch, sl st in last 5 ch [12 sts]

Row 2 :

ch 1, sl st in BL of next 5 sts, sc in BL of next 7 sts,

Row 3 :

ch 1, sc in BL of next 7 sts, sl st in BL of next 5 sts

Rows 4-9 :

rep Rows 2-3 another 2 times, fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Row 10 :

rep Row 2, fasten off, leaving a long tail.

— Finishing the Pumpkin :

Info :

Preparing the stem: Fold the stem lengthwise so that the top and bottom meet. The slip stitches should touch each other and the single crochets next to each other. Thread the long tail left when finishing off, through a darning needle. Now seam the top and bottom together, but insert your needle through the back loop only of the top row, so that you continue the ridge pattern made by the back loop stitches. Once you have stitched the top and bottom together, insert your needle through the middle of the stem to come out at the slip stitch end and sew the top closed, pulling it tight. Weave in yarn ends.

Info :

Preparing the pumpkin: Thread the long tail left when finishing off, through a darning needle. Insert the needle from the top of the pumpkin through the stuffing to come out at the bottom, inserted the needle from the bottom again to come out at the top and pull the bottom and top closer to each other. Do this a few more times, leaving the yarn and needle at the top to fasten the stem (this will influence the height of your pumpkin, the closer you bring the top and bottom together, the shorter the pumpkin will be).

Info :

Attaching the stem to the pumpkin: I find it easier to attach the stem by inserting the needle all the way to the bottom and back up through the stem, but you can also just do the stitching around the top if you prefer. It also looks neater if you use the same colour yarn as the pumpkin to attach the stem.

Assembly Instructions

  • Fold the finished stem lengthwise and seam the top and bottom together using the long tail and a darning needle, inserting the needle through the back loop only to keep the ridge pattern consistent.
  • Thread the long tail from the pumpkin through a darning needle, insert from the top through the stuffing to the bottom, then back up through the stuffing several times to pull top and bottom closer together and shape the pumpkin.
  • Before completing final decreases for the B and E variants, turn the pumpkin inside out, stuff it, then finish the last rounds so the bumps appear on the outside.
  • Insert the stem's long tail through the pumpkin by pushing your needle from the top into the stuffing and out through the bottom, then back up through the stem, and stitch securely around the stem base to attach it.
  • Weave in all yarn ends neatly inside the pumpkin and adjust stuffing as needed by adding or redistributing fiberfill before fully closing the last stitches.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round to keep track of rounds, especially during shaping and decreases.
  • 💡Stuff the pumpkin firmly but evenly before completing the final decrease rounds to ensure consistent shape and visible segments.
  • 💡Work the slip stitches under both loops in the specified slip stitch positions to maintain the ridge pattern and segment alignment.
  • 💡For a denser fabric that hides stuffing well, use the smaller hook size suggested rather than a larger hook.
  • 💡Pin and position the stem before final sewing to ensure correct placement, then sew securely with matching yarn.

This Crochet Pumpkin Pattern includes step-by-step instructions and photos so you can create charming pumpkins in multiple sizes. Make a cozy autumn display, table centerpiece, or a set of gift-ready pumpkins with ease. Enjoy the warm satisfaction of handmade seasonal decor! 🎃🧶

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

Finished sizes vary by model: A = 4 cm x 9 cm, B = 4.5 cm x 10 cm, C = 5.5 cm x 10.5 cm, D = 6 cm x 13.5 cm, E = 7.5 cm x 15.5 cm, F = 11.5 cm x 18.5 cm (approximate measurements from the pattern).

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can substitute yarn, but this will affect final size and texture; the pattern uses Medium/Worsted (4) cotton and recommends a slightly smaller hook to achieve a dense fabric that hides stuffing.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; basic knowledge of single crochet, slip stitch, and working in rounds is required, plus confidence with linked double crochet and invisible decreases.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish a single pumpkin in a couple of hours, with the full collection taking around 5-7 hours depending on size and finishing complexity.

How do I make Pumpkin B and E look different?

Pumpkins B and E are made by turning the finished pumpkin inside out before final assembly and finishing; stuff before turning, then finish closing so the bumps appear on the outside.