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Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern
4.7★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.6K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

This pattern creates a whimsical frog door-stopper worked in worsted weight yarn with a weighted body to hold doors open. It includes instructions for head (top and bottom), eyes, tongue, body, arms/legs and neck, plus assembly steps. The design uses simple shaping, increases and decreases to form the frog silhouette.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Detailed round-by-round instructions and helpful assembly photos are included to guide you step by step. Suitable for crafters comfortable with basic stitches and simple stuffing and assembly techniques.

Why You'll Love This Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it takes a familiar home item and turns it into a playful, handmade character that brings a smile. I enjoyed designing the shaping so the frog has a lively mouth and weighted body that actually works as a door-stopper. The project blends small, satisfying pieces—like the curled tongue and little toes—with larger shaping that is rewarding to finish. I also love that it uses simple materials you probably already have, yet creates a charming, gift-ready item.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern step 1 - construction progress Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love to change up the color for different looks; I often make the frog in pastel shades for a nursery or in bold greens for a kitchen accent.

I sometimes use bulky yarn and a larger hook to create a chunkier, heavier door-stopper that feels more plush and substantial.

I also experiment with different eye types: you can embroider eyes for a softer look or use larger safety eyes for more expression.

Ive swapped the tongue color to orange or pink for a cute pop of contrast; small color changes can totally change the personality.

I like to add small accessories like a crocheted bow tie, tiny hat, or felt spots to customize each frog to the recipient.

I occasionally add a bit of wire in the neck or arms to make them poseable; just be sure to secure wire ends safely inside stuffing.

If you want a weighted door-stopper without beads, try using heavier stuffing or even small rice bags placed inside a nylon stocking.

I also make a mini keychain version by using finer yarn and a smaller hook; reduce chain lengths to scale down the neck and body.

For durability, I sometimes reinforce the neck seam with a second row of stitching or a small fabric patch on the inside where the neck meets the body.

I recommend testing eye and mouth placement before permanently sewing; you can pin parts in place to see how they look from all angles.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not inserting the bead bag before the opening gets too small; insert the bead bag early and finish stuffing as you decrease to avoid difficulty later. ✗ Forgetting to change to green yarn at the specified row will create a visible color mismatch; change color exactly at the row indicated and weave in ends neatly. ✗ Skipping the back loop row when instructed will alter the texture and shape; work the back loop only on the specified row to get the intended ridge. ✗ Overstuffing the head or body can distort shaping and make sewing parts together difficult; stuff gradually and check shape as you go, adding small amounts at a time. ✗ Not securing the button or cardboard firmly in the mouth will let it shift; sew the button/cardboard in place with the final knot inside so it is hidden and stable.

Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

Make a playful Crochet Frog Door-Stopper that doubles as a fun home accent and a practical weight for doors. This pattern walks you through crocheting a charismatic frog with a weighted body, movable mouth, and charming details like eyes, tongue, and toes. Youll enjoy shaping each part and assembling them into a whimsical finished piece perfect for gifts or brightening your home.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Crochet Frog Door-Stopper Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), green - one skein is plenty
  • 02
    Black yarn - very small amount for mouth rim (few yards)
  • 03
    White yarn - small amount for eyes (few yards)
  • 04
    Red yarn - small amount for tongue (few yards)
  • 05
    Safety eyes - 10 mm (2 pieces)
  • 06
    Polyester stuffing - small amount
  • 07
    Stuffing beads (bean bag beads) for weight (small bag)
  • 08
    Nylon stocking or mesh bag to contain beads
  • 09
    2 round buttons, size 2 1/4" OR thick cardboard cut to that size (used inside mouth to keep flat)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size G (4.0mm)
  • 02
    Measuring tape
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Darning/yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 05
    Stitch markers
  • 06
    Safety eyes 10mm (2 pieces)
  • 07
    Polyester stuffing
  • 08
    Stuffing beads and nylon stocking/mesh bag to hold beads
  • 09
    Pins for assembly (optional)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Top of Head :

Round 1 :

With black yarn, use the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc* around (30)

Info :

CHANGE TO GREEN YARN

Round 6 :

BACK LOOP for this row only sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 7 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 8 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 9 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 10 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 11 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Info :

insert button here or cutout cardboard piece to keep flat - secure it if you choose, I secured my button by sewing it on with the final knot inside so you can't see it from the outside

Round 12 :

(decrease row) 1sc in next 2 stitches then decrease *1sc, 1sc, dec * x 7 sc in last 2 stitches (23)

Round 13 :

(decrease row) 1sc in next 2 stitches then decrease *1sc, 1sc, dec * x 5 (17)

Round 14 :

sc around each stitch (no dec / inc) (17)

Info :

insert bead bag here for weight before it gets too small of an opening **you will be putting regular stuffing to finish off the "stuffing of the head" after the bean bag. Keep stuffing as we decrease. If your stitching is loose and you see the white stuffing or bean bag, you can also use the same colour green yarn to stuff it. We are not using too much yarn so it's not a big expense to use yarn to stuff the head**

Round 15 :

(decrease row) decrease then 1sc *dec and 1sc * x 5 then one more decrease (11)

Round 16 :

(decrease row) decrease x 5 then sc in last stitch *dec x5 * then 1sc (6)

Round 17 :

cinch last 6 stitches together tightly and finish off

— Bottom of Head :

Round 1 :

With black yarn, use the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc* around (30)

Info :

CHANGE TO GREEN YARN

Round 6 :

BACK LOOP for this row only sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 7 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 8 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Round 9 :

sc around each stitch (no increasing) (30)

Info :

insert button / cardboard piece **I recommend using green yarn to stuff the remainder of the bottom of the head**

Round 10 :

(decrease row) *dec, 1sc * x 10 (20)

Round 11 :

(decrease row) *dec, 1sc * x 10 (10)

Round 12 :

cinch the remainder 10 stitches tightly, finish off

— Tongue :

Item Tongue (P1) :

using RED yarn Chain 25, turn, 3sc in first chain from hook, sc in next chain, repeat until there is 5 chains remaining. SC in last 5 chains. Finish off

— Eyes :

Info :

using WHITE yarn, make 2

Round 1 :

using the magic circle OR chain 2 and sc x5 in first chain space

Round 2 :

(increase row) 2sc in each stitch (10)

Round 3 :

sc around (10)

Round 4 :

sc around (10)

Info :

finish off. INSERT safety eyes in the top of the eyes made. When using the chain 2 method you end up with a tiny "hole" in the top of the eyes perfect for inserting the safety eyes. No they are not too big for the safety eyes to fall out if secured properly

— Body of Frog :

Round 1 :

Using the magic circle method if you choose OR chain 2 and single crochet 6 in first chain space (6)

Round 2 :

(increase row) sc 2x in each stitch from row one *inc x 6* around (12)

Round 3 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then (once) 1sc in next stitch, *inc then 1sc* around (18)

Round 4 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 2 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc* around (24)

Round 5 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 3 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc* around (30)

Round 6 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 4 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc* around (36)

Round 7 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 5 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc* around (42)

Round 8 :

(increase row) sc 2x in first stitch then 1sc in next 6 stitches *inc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc* around (48)

Round 9 :

sc around (48)

Round 10 :

sc around (48)

Round 11 :

sc around (48)

Round 12 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 6 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (42)

Round 13 :

sc around (42)

Round 14 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 5 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (36)

Round 15 :

sc around (36)

Round 16 :

sc around (36)

Round 17 :

sc around (36)

Round 18 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 4 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (30)

Round 19 :

sc around (30)

Round 20 :

sc around (30)

Info :

** start stuffing body as we'll be decreasing more and more. You can also insert another bean bag here for weight as well. My stitching is on the tighter side so I didn't need to use yarn to stuff the body here. You can -- it's ok **

Round 21 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 3 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (24)

Round 22 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc in next 2 stitches *dec, 1sc, 1sc * 6x (18)

Round 23 :

(decrease row) dec then 1sc *dec, 1sc * 6x (12)

Round 24 :

decrease around x 6 (6)

Round 25 :

cinch around last 6 stitches and finish off

— Arms and Legs :

Item Arms/Legs (P1) :

make 2 of each - green yarn. Chain 21, turn

Item Arms/Legs (P2) :

sc in chain closest to hook (20)

Item Arms/Legs (P3) :

once at the end - do not finish off - chain 6 and slip stitch to the first chain, repeat that 3 more times to end up with 4 "finger / toes"

Item Arms/Legs (P4) :

finish off after the 4th slip stitch. Sometimes there will be a small hole where you did your slip stitches, sew up with the yarn tails once you have finished off

— Neck :

Item Neck (P1) :

green yarn (works out to approx 6" before folding). Chain 27, turn

Item Neck (P2) :

HDC starting in 2nd chain from hook (25)

Item Neck (P3) :

HDC 4 more rows

Info :

Since the neck is constantly on the floor, I have made it this long so that I can fold over to make it thicker - sew up the sides; sewing up the bottom not so important as we will be attaching this to the body.

— Assembly :

First :

Sew the tongue to the back of the bottom of head. Sew it up to the centre of the black circle so it doesn't move that much

Second :

you will now be sewing the top and bottom parts of the head together. You will only sew it over 10 stitches as you want to make sure the, now mouth, works. Shown without the tongue attached as I was crazy before I put the head together and didn't sew the tongue in first - that's why I know you should and I've instructed you to do this :)

Third :

Attach eyes to top of head

Forth :

Lets sew the legs onto the frog body. Place them on the bottom of the larger part of the body. As well, lets sew the neck onto the top of the body.

Fifth :

Sew the arms onto the neck. Place them about a half inch from the top of the neck as we still have to sew the neck and head together

Sixth :

We're here - lets sew the neck onto the bottom of the head - in the middle

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the tongue to the back of the bottom of the head and secure it up to the center of the black mouth circle so it does not move.
  • Sew the top and bottom parts of the head together over approximately 10 stitches, leaving the mouth able to open and close slightly.
  • Attach the two eyes to the top of the head, positioning them symmetrically and securing safety eyes through the tiny hole made by the chain 2 method if used.
  • Place and sew the legs to the larger bottom portion of the body so the frog sits balanced; then sew the neck to the top center of the body.
  • Sew the arms onto the neck approximately half an inch from the top so they are positioned naturally once the neck and head are joined.
  • Sew the neck into the bottom center of the head, aligning edges carefully and reinforcing stitches so the head stays attached during use.

Important Notes

  • 💡Insert the bead bag for weight while the opening is still large enough; finish with regular stuffing as you decrease.
  • 💡Use the back loop only on the specified row to get the correct ridge and shape for the head openings.
  • 💡Secure the button or cardboard inside the mouth by sewing the final knot on the inside so it is hidden and stable.
  • 💡Fold and sew the neck closed to create thickness since it will rest on the floor; sew sides securely for durability.
  • 💡Insert safety eyes into the top of the crocheted eye domes and secure the backs tightly to prevent accidental removal.

This Crochet Frog Door-Stopper is a playful and practical project you can make to brighten any room. It combines simple amigurumi shaping with a weighted body so the frog actually functions as a door-stopper. Perfect as a handmade gift or a quirky home accent that adds personality. 🐸🧶

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished frog measures approximately 12-15 inches long from head to tail depending on yarn tension and stuffing; the neck measures about 6 inches before folding.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the finished size will change; adjust your hook size accordingly and add more stuffing or beads for weight if you go with a lighter yarn.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so familiarity with basic stitches (SC, HDC), increases, decreases and working in the round is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in about 5-7 hours, though time will vary by experience, finishing details and assembly complexity.