What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 20 inches tall when using medium weight (4) yarn and a 3.75 mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but the final size will change; choose a suitable hook size for the yarn and expect changes in proportions.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of single crochet, increases, decreases, and working in rounds is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters will take about 12-15 hours to complete this project, depending on experience and how much time you spend on the mane and embellishments.

Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to switch colors to create different breeds and looks — try a palomino by using lighter tan and cream, or make a pinto with patches of contrasting color.

Want a smaller or larger horse? Change your yarn weight and hook size: bulky yarn and a larger hook make a chunky cuddly version, while fingering yarn makes a delicate mini.

I often change the mane length and strip counts to get a more or less dramatic mane; shorten the chain lengths for a tidier look or add extra strips for a fuller mane and tail.

Try substituting safety eyes for embroidered eyes for a softer, child-safe finish, or use larger eyes for a whimsical look — always secure safety eyes with backs or hot glue if desired.

Personal touches like embroidered mouth or nostrils, a little saddle or blanket, or tiny crocheted bows on the tail add character and make each horse unique.

For posability, I sometimes insert thin wire into the legs or neck before stuffing; this lets me pose the head and legs slightly and is great for display pieces.

I recommend experimenting with the flower colors and quantities; mixing pastel roses with bright leaves changes the vibe from sweet to festive in an instant.

If you prefer a weighted, sturdier base, add more pellets in the hooves or a small flat bag of weights inside the belly before closing.

To simplify assembly, pin all parts in place before sewing so you can adjust angles and spacing; I always snap photos once pinned to remember exact placement while sewing.

I sometimes make sets — a mama and foal — by reducing the foal's pattern sizes and simplifying the mane, which makes for a lovely gift set or nursery display.

Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Create a delightful Summer Horse amigurumi with full, easy-to-follow instructions for head, body, legs, mane, tail and floral embellishments. This pattern walks you through shaping, assembly, and decorative details so your horse has personality and charm. Perfect for gifting or brightening a nursery with a handmade companion.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

01
Medium weight yarn (#4) Body Color - approximately 10 oz
02
Medium weight yarn (#4) Mane/Tail Color - approximately 7 oz
03
Ivory or White Color - small amount for nose strip and eye details
04
Hoof Color - small amount for hoof contrast
05
Three 3 Colors for the Roses - small amounts each for flowers
06
Leaf Color - small amount for leaves
07
Suggested yarn: Hobby Lobby 'I Love This Yarn' in Toasted Almond, Linen, Ivory, Brown, Mango, Lt. Peach, Buttercup, Mid Green

— Tools Required

01
Crochet hook size 3.75 mm
02
Tapestry needle
03
Stitch marker
04
Scissors
05
Poly pellet beads (or rice) for weighting hooves
06
Nylon stocking to hold beads
07
PolyFiber filling (stuffing)
08
Hot glue gun - optional for attaching eyes & replacing some sewing
09
24mm safety eyes

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

MR, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc 2, 3 sc in next) x 4 (20)

Round 4 :

sc 3, 3 sc in next, (sc 4, 3 sc in next) x 3, sc (28)

Round 5 :

sc 4, 3 sc in next, (sc 6, 3 sc in next) x 3, sc 2 (36)

Rounds 6-10 :

sc around, 5 rnds (36)

Round 11 :

sc 24, (inc, sc 2) x 4 (40)

Round 12 :

sc around (40)

Round 13 :

sc 25, (inc, sc 2) x 4, sc 3 (44)

Round 14 :

sc around (44)

Round 15 :

sc 6, (inc, sc) x 5, inc, sc 12, inc x 3, sc 2, inc x 4, sc 6 (57)

Rounds 16-21 :

sc around, 6 rnds (57)

Round 22 :

sc 40, (inc, sc 4) x 3, sc 2 (60)

Rounds 23-25 :

sc around, 3 rnds (60)

Round 26 :

(sc 3, dec) x 8, sc 15, dec, sc 3 (51)

Round 27 :

sc 30, dec, sc 6, dec, sc 9, dec (48)

Round 28 :

(sc 6, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 29 :

(sc 5, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 30 :

(sc 4, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 31 :

(sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)

Info :

Start Stuffing. I used hot glue to attach the eyes after I closed the head, if you'd rather use the safety backs for the eyes, you can follow the instructions for the eyes now.*see below

Round 32 :

(sc 2, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 33 :

(sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 34 :

dec x 6 (6)

Info :

Finish Off.

Info :

Eye Instructions: To make the divots for the eyes to sit in - Take a piece of yarn (I used crochet thread so you can see it better) and thread it through the head between rnds 17 & 18 and approx 25 sts apart. Thread the yarn back through the head so that you 'grab a stitch'. Make sure the tail comes out in a way so that you will be able to tie a knot around a stitch on the other side and pull on the yarn until you form the divots on both sides. Knot the ends a couple more times & hide the ends inside the head. I used hot glue to secure the eyes in the divots.

— Head Notes :

Info :

Use this same technique to make divots on each side of the horse's nose, between rnds 10 & 11 & approx. 16 sts apart, being careful to not pull too tight or it will create a gap in the stitching. Take a piece of Ivory yarn and make a couple stitches next to the eyes.

— Ears :

Round 1 :

MR, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

(sc 2, inc) x 2 (8)

Round 3 :

(sc 3, inc) x 2 (10)

Round 4 :

sc around (10)

Round 5 :

(inc x 2, sc 3) x 2 (14)

Round 6 :

sc, inc x 2, sc 5, inc x 2, sc 4 (18)

Round 7 :

sc 2, inc x 2, sc 7, inc x 2, sc 5 (22)

Rounds 8-10 :

sc around, 3 rnds (22)

Round 11 :

sc 2, dec x 2, sc 7, dec x 2, sc 5 (18)

Round 12 :

sc, dec x 2, sc 5, dec x 2, sc 4 (14)

Info :

Sc 2 more times to get to the edge of the ear and ch 1, hold the bottom edges together, make 7 sc through both sides to close the opening. Finish off, leaving a long tail. Pinch the bottom of the ear together and make a few sts to secure. Sew the ears to the head at approx. rnds 25-27. *See photo on page 4 for reference.

— Nose Strip :

Info :

With Ivory~ Ch 9, starting in second ch from the hook -

Round 1 :

1-2 - sc across, ch 1 & turn (8)

Round 2 :

3 - sc across (8)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Sew the strip to the middle of the horse’s nose.

— Neck :

Info :

Start with a long beginning tail, you will use this to sew the head to the neck. Ch 36, slst into the first ch to join, ch 1

Round 1-2 :

sc around, 2 rnds (36)

Round 3 :

sc 10, (inc, sc 2) x 6, sc 8 (42)

Rounds 4-5 :

sc around, 2 rnds (42)

Round 6 :

sc 18, (inc, sc 2) x 3, sc 15 (45)

Round 7 :

sc around (45)

Round 8 :

sc 17, inc, sc 3, (inc, sc 2) x 2, (inc, sc 3) x 2, sc 10 (50)

Rounds 9-12 :

sc around, 4 rnds (50)

Round 13 :

(sc 2, inc) x 4, sc 12, (inc, sc 2) x 4, sc 10, inc, sc 2, inc (60)

Round 14 :

sc around (60)

Round 15 :

sc 25, (dec, sc 2) x 5, sc 15 (55)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail.

— Body :

Round 1 :

MR, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(sc 2, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(sc 4, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(sc 6, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(sc 7, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(sc 8, inc) x 6 (60)

Rounds 11-38 :

sc around, 28 rnds (60)

Round 39 :

(sc 8, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 40 :

(sc 7, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 41 :

(sc 6, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 42 :

(sc 5, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 43 :

(sc 4, dec) x 6 (30)

Info :

Begin Stuffing.

Round 44 :

(sc 3, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 45 :

(sc 2, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 46 :

(sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 47 :

dec x 6 (6)

Info :

Finish Off.

Info :

Assembly: Place the front of the neck at approx. rnd 4 of the body, the back of the neck will reach to approx. rnd 23. Stuff the neck firmly, then sew the head to the top of the neck. I sewed the head at an angle so it looks like the horse is looking off to the side but you can sew it straight on, or however you like. Add additional stuffing before closing up the last few stitches to make sure the neck is nice and firm and can support the head.

— Right Front Leg :

Info :

Start with Hoof Color~

Round 1 :

MR, sc 6 (6)

Round 2 :

inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(sc 2, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(sc 4, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

BLO, sc 10, (inc, sc 2) x 6, sc 8 (42)

Rounds 8-9 :

sc around, 2 rnds (42)

Round 10 :

sc 10, (dec, sc 2) x 6, sc 8 (36)

Round 11 :

sc around (36)

Info :

Change to Ivory

Round 12 :

sc 11, (dec, sc 2) x 4, sc 9 (32)

Rounds 13-14 :

sc around, 2 rnds (32)

Round 15 :

sc 12, (dec, sc 2) x 3, sc 8 (29)

Round 16 :

sc around (29)

Info :

Insert nylon with poly-pellets *see page 3

Round 17 :

sc 10, (dec, sc 2) x 3, sc 7 (26)

Round 18 :

sc around (26)

Round 19 :

sc 11, dec x4, sc 7 (22)

Round 20 :

sc around (22)

Rounds 21-24 :

sc around, 4 rnds (22)

Round 25 :

sc, inc x 2, sc 10, inc x 3, sc 6 (27)

Rounds 26-30 :

sc around, 5 rnds (27)

Round 31 :

sc 4, inc x 2, sc 11, inc x 3, sc 7 (32)

Rounds 32-37 :

sc around, 6 rnds (32)

Info :

Here is where we will begin working back & forth to create the flap.

Round 38 :

sc 5, ch 1 & turn, hdc in same st as ch & in the next 16 (17) ch 1 & turn

Round 39 :

hdc 17, ch 1 & turn (17)

Round 40 :

hdc 3, dc 11, hdc 3 (17)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Make sure the leg is stuffed firmly so it can support the body.

— Left Front Leg :

Info :

Follow the same instructions as the right front leg through rnd 37

Round 38 :

sc 10, hdc 17, ch 1 & turn

Round 39 :

hdc in same as ch & in the next 16, ch 1, turn (17)

Round 40 :

hdc 3, dc 11, hdc 3 (17)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff firmly.

— Right Rear Leg :

Info :

Follow the same instructions as right front leg through rnd 33

Round 34 :

sc 6, inc x 2, sc 15, inc x 3, sc 6 (37)

Round 35 :

sc around (37)

Round 36 :

sc 8, inc x 3, sc 26 (40)

Round 37 :

sc around (40)

Round 38 :

sc 20, ch 1 & turn, hdc in same as ch & in next 24, ch 1, turn

Round 39 :

hdc 25 (25) ch 2 & turn

Round 40 :

dc in same as ch & in the next 17, hdc 7 (25) ch 1 & turn

Round 41 :

sc 7, hdc 18 (25) ch 1 & turn

Round 42 :

sc 6, hdc 12, sc 7 (25)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff Firmly.

— Left Rear Leg :

Info :

Follow the same instructions as the Right REAR Leg through rnd 37

Round 38 :

sc 32, ch 1 & turn, hdc in same as ch & in next 24 (25) ch 1 & turn

Round 39 :

hdc 25 (25) ch 1 & turn

Round 40 :

hdc 7, dc 18 (25) ch 1 & turn

Round 41 :

hdc 18, sc 7 (25) ch 1 & turn

Round 42 :

sc 7, hdc 12, sc 6 (25)

Info :

Finish Off, leaving a long tail. Stuff Firmly.

Info :

Assembly: Sew the legs to the body, add stuffing before closing up the last few stitches to insure the bottom of the legs are firm. Add some lighter stuffing to fill in the flap area, making sure the stuffing doesn't pull gaps in the hdc/dc stitches.

— Mane & Tail :

Info :

The mane and tail are made up of 2 strips that are joined together at the top, forming what we will refer to as a 'Section'. Each strip begins with a starting ch. You will start by working in the 2nd chain from the hook and sc into the back bumps of the starting ch. You will work a total of 3 rows of sc, then, without finishing off, begin a new starting ch for the second strip. After working 3 rows of sc on the second strip, you ch 1, fold the strips together and sc across the top to join, forming a Section.

Info :

I will write out the instructions for the first Section, then you will repeat the same technique for each section, changing only the length of the chains. You will have a total of 3 separate sections and 1 individual strip for the part of the mane that goes between the ears. *see photo on next page for placement.

Front mane - Section 1 :

With Mane/Tail Color~ Ch 42, starting in 2nd ch from the hook & working in back bump - 1-2 - sc across, Ch 1 & turn (41) 3 - sc across. Ch 36 1-2 - sc across, ch 1 & turn (35) 3 - sc across. Ch 1 and fold the 2 strips together, sc across to join. Finish Off, leaving a long tail. This section will go next to the inside of the left ear.

Front mane - Section 2 :

Strip 1: ch 21; Strip 2: ch 31. This goes next to Section 1, in the middle.

Front mane - Section 3 :

Strip 1: ch 42; Strip 2: ch 26. This section is sewn directly behind Section 2 and lays over the top of Section 2.

Info :

Now, we will make a single strip that is 31 ch long. This piece goes next to the right ear and is angled so it lays across the other sections.

Side mane :

Next, we will make the part of the mane that goes down the back of the horse's head and neck. For this piece I made 5 continuous sections. I made 2 strips and joined them together but instead of finishing off, I made the next starting ch, making my next 2 strips and joined those 2 strips together and so on. You will have 5 sections total that are all connected. Then I just single crocheted across the top of all five sections for a cleaner look and to make the piece easier to attach. Every strip will start with a ch of 58.

Tail sections :

For the tail we will make 2 continuous sections (total of 4 strips). After single crocheting across the top of the 2nd section, ch 1, fold one section over the top of the other and sc across the top to join. (you'll have 4 strips stacked one on top of the other).

Tail - Section 1 :

Strip 1: Ch 55; Strip 2: ch 61

Tail - Section 2 :

Strip 1: ch 57; Strip 2: ch 64

Info :

Fold the 2 sections together and sc across the top (there will be 4 strips layered). Finish off, leaving a long tail. Repeat these instructions 2 more times so that you have a total of 3 pieces with 2 sections each. Sew the first piece to approx. rnd 38 of the horse's body. Sew the next 2 pieces directly above the first.

— Flowers & Leaves :

Info :

I made 3 roses in each color and 3 rosebuds in each color. I also made 7 leaves. You can make as many flowers and leaves as you wish, adding some to the tail as well if you like.

Rose :

Ch 27, 3hdc in 2nd ch from the hook, slst, (3hdc in next st, slst) x 12. Finish off, leaving a long tail. Roll the petals into a rose shape and secure with a few stitches through the bottom.

Rosebud :

ch 18, dc in 3rd ch from the hook & in the next 15. Finish off, leaving a long tail. Roll up and secure with a few stitches through the bottom.

Leaf :

Leave a long starting tail for sewing the leaves to the roses: Ch 8, starting in 2nd ch from the hook, slst, sc, hdc, dc 3, 5 dc in next st, (Now begin working down the opposite side of the ch) dc 3, hdc, sc, slst, ch 2, slst into the first slst on side 1. Finish Off.

Info :

Reference photos on the next page for placement of the flowers.

Assembly Instructions

Place the front of the neck at approx. rnd 4 of the body and line the back of the neck to reach approx. rnd 23; stuff the neck firmly before sewing and then sew the head to the top of the neck, angling as desired.
Sew ears to the head at approximately rounds 25-27; pinch the bottom of the ear together, close with 7 sc through both sides, leave a long tail and use the tail to secure the ear to the head.
Position and sew the legs to the bottom of the body; add stuffing before closing the last few stitches to ensure the bottom of the legs are firm and the flap area is filled to prevent gaps.
Attach mane and tail sections: sew front mane sections next to the ears as described, and sew tail pieces to approx. round 38 of the body, stacking three pieces with two sections each for fullness.
Attach flowers and leaves by sewing with long tails: roll roses and secure through bottom, sew rosebuds and leaves where desired, using photos as a placement guide.

Important Notes

💡Use a stitch marker to keep track of your rounds, especially because most pieces are worked in continuous rounds and shaping requires accurate counts.
💡To weight the hooves, fill a small piece of nylon stocking with poly-pellet beads (or rice), tie a knot and trim the excess before inserting into the leg; this helps the horse stand upright.
💡When making the mane and tail, crochet into the back bump of the starting chain to create a clean edge and consistent look for joining strips.
💡Hot glue can be used to attach eyes and some embellishments as an alternative to sewing; leave long tails where sewing is preferred so you can opt to sew instead.

This Summer Horse pattern brings a gentle, whimsical friend to life with a flowing mane, layered tail, and tiny floral details. Make one for yourself or as a heartfelt gift — each horse is uniquely styled by your yarn and color choices. Happy crocheting and enjoy the slow, creative process of assembling every charming detail! 🧶🌸

Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Intermediate Level

Multi-Day Project

Cute Companion

About This Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Why You'll Love This Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Switch Things Up

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

Materials Needed for Summer Horse Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

— Tools Required

Progress Tracker

— Head :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4 :

Round 5 :

Rounds 6-10 :

Round 11 :

Round 12 :

Round 13 :

Round 14 :

Round 15 :

Rounds 16-21 :

Round 22 :

Rounds 23-25 :

Round 26 :

Round 27 :

Round 28 :

Round 29 :

Round 30 :

Round 31 :

Info :

Round 32 :

Round 33 :

Round 34 :

Info :

Info :

— Head Notes :

Info :

— Ears :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4 :

Round 5 :

Round 6 :

Round 7 :

Rounds 8-10 :

Round 11 :

Round 12 :

Info :

— Nose Strip :

Info :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Info :

— Neck :

Info :

Round 1-2 :

Round 3 :

Rounds 4-5 :

Round 6 :

Round 7 :

Round 8 :

Rounds 9-12 :

Round 13 :

Round 14 :

Round 15 :

Info :

— Body :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4 :

Round 5 :

Round 6 :

Round 7 :