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Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern
4.4★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.7K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a large Snorlax amigurumi made primarily with Bernat Blanket yarn and a 7mm hook. The design features a roomy oval body, a separate belly patch with a border, two ears, two arms, two feet with foot pads, and tiny claws. You will work rounds and some sections in rows, then assemble by sewing around the posts for a neat finish.

Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect for gifting or as a cozy home accent, this pattern includes placement notes and detailed assembly tips. You will learn how to shape large pieces and sew pieces for a clean professional look.

Why You'll Love This Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns a simple yarn into a big, huggable Snorlax that feels like a handmade treasure. The construction uses clear rounds and rows so you can see the shape develop as you work. Sewing the belly patch and sewing around the posts gives such a neat result that I feel proud of. I enjoy how the pattern can be customized with color choices and how satisfying it is to stuff and finish such a large piece.

Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love experimenting with color swaps: try soft pastels for a nursery-friendly Snorlax or deep jewel tones for a bold living-room accent.

To make a smaller version, use worsted weight yarn and a 3mm-4mm hook and follow the exact same stitch counts to keep the shape proportional.

If you prefer safety eyes, you can add 12mm-15mm safety eyes between head rounds 8 & 9, but embroidery keeps it soft and machine-washable.

For a more poseable Snorlax, insert pipe cleaners or armature wire into the arms before stuffing to help them hold a position.

I sometimes add a removable scarf or tiny crochet hat to personalize it — make little outfits with leftover yarn for seasonal looks.

Try embroidering different facial expressions; moving the mouth and eye placement slightly changes the personality dramatically.

Use felt or contrasting yarn to create a textured belly patch border or even applique small shapes for a custom design.

Make coordinating mini Snorlax keychains by crocheting with thinner yarn and a smaller hook for a matching set.

Swap the foot pad color to leather or felt for a mixed-material look and to reduce bulk while maintaining the shape.

I recommend trying different stuffing levels to see what gives the best sit-and-hug balance — more stuffing makes it sturdier, less stuffing gives it a squishier feel.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during long rounds causes you to lose your starting point; place a marker at the start of each round and move it as you work. ✗ Not stuffing gradually leads to lumps and uneven shaping; add stuffing in small amounts as you go, shaping the piece as you fill it. ✗ Sewing only through the top loop creates messy joins; sew around the posts of the stitches for a much neater finish. ✗ Switching from rounds to rows without counting leads to mismatched stitch counts; always recount and make sure rows start and end at the expected stitches. ✗ Failing to line up the arm stitches before sewing creates misaligned limbs; pin the top six and bottom six stitches and count them before you sew.

Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

Create a giant, cuddly Snorlax using this detailed amigurumi pattern designed for Bernat Blanket yarn. You will love how the soft plush texture and roomy body make a perfect cuddle buddy or statement piece. The pattern walks you through each piece step-by-step so you can follow along with confidence. Ideal for makers who enjoy a large, rewarding crochet project.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Bernat Blanket yarn - Lagoon (regular) or Lapis (shiny) - 3 large skeins (main body color)
  • 02
    Bernat Blanket yarn - Birch - 1 skein (belly, feet, claws)
  • 03
    Bernat Blanket yarn - Taupe - less than 1 skein (foot pads; optional; can substitute brown felt)
  • 04
    Bernat Blanket yarn - White - a small skein (claws and teeth)
  • 05
    Bernat Blanket yarn - Black - small amount optional (for embroidering eyes and mouth)
  • 06
    Alternative: worsted weight yarn (#4) with smaller hooks (3mm/3.5mm/4mm) if you want a smaller finished size

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 7mm (recommended) or whatever size makes your stitches tight enough
  • 02
    Optional smaller crochet hooks: 3mm, 3.5mm, 4mm for a smaller version
  • 03
    Polyester stuffing - approximately 5 lbs (he's big!)
  • 04
    A small piece of white felt for teeth
  • 05
    Sewing needle
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 07
    Stitch markers
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Fabric glue (tiny amount for rounding eyes if desired)
  • 10
    Pins (T-pins recommended for pinning the belly patch and ears)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Info :

Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join rounds. Made in 'Lagoon' or 'Lapis'

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Increase in each stitch (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

sc in each stitch (54)

Round 11 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (60)

Round 12 :

sc in each stitch (60)

Round 13 :

(14 sc, inc) x 4 (64)

Round 14-18 :

sc in each stitch (64)

Round 19 :

(14 sc, dec) x 4 (60)

Round 20 :

sc in each stitch (60)

Round 21 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 4 sc (54)

Round 22 :

sc in each stitch (54)

Round 23 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Info :

Fasten off. Add stuffing to the head. The increases from round 13 should make the head slightly oval-shaped.

— Body :

Info :

Worked in an oval shape. Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in 'Lagoon' or 'Lapis'

Round 1 :

Chain 18. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 15 sc, make 3 sc in the last chain. Turn so you are working on the opposite side of the foundation chain. 16 sc. (36)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, 15 sc, inc, inc, inc, 15 sc, inc (42)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 16 sc, inc (48)

Round 4 :

2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc (54)

Round 5 :

3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc (60)

Round 6 :

4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc (66)

Round 7 :

5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc (72)

Round 8 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 7, 4 sc (80)

Round 9 :

(9 sc, inc) x 8 (88)

Round 10 :

5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) x 7, 5 sc (96)

Round 11 :

sc in each stitch (96)

Round 12 :

(11 sc, inc) x 8 (104)

Round 13 :

sc in each stitch (104)

Round 14 :

6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) x 7, 6 sc (112)

Round 15-24 :

sc in each stitch (112)

Round 25 :

6 sc, dec, (12 sc, dec) x 7, 6 sc (104)

Round 26-29 :

sc in each stitch (104)

Round 30 :

(11 sc, dec) x 8 (96)

Round 31 :

sc in each stitch (96)

Round 32 :

5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) x 7, 5 sc (88)

Round 33 :

sc in each stitch (88)

Round 34 :

(9 sc, dec) x 8 (80)

Round 35 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 7, 4 sc (72)

Round 36 :

sc in each stitch (72)

Round 37 :

(7 sc, dec) x 8 (64)

Round 38 :

sc in each stitch (64)

Round 39 :

3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 7, 3 sc (56)

Round 40 :

sc in each stitch (56)

Round 41 :

(5 sc, dec) x 8 (48)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a very long tail to sew the body to the head. Add a LOT of stuffing to the body.

— Ears :

Info :

Make two ears. Made in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in 'Lagoon' or 'Lapis'

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

(sc, inc) x 3 (9)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (12)

Round 4 :

sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc, sc (16)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 4 (20)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (24)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the head.

— Arms :

Info :

Make two arms. Made in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in 'Lagoon' or 'Lapis'

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

increase in each stitch (12)

Round 3 :

inc, inc, 3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc, inc (18)

Round 4 :

sc in each stitch (18)

Round 5 :

4 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 4 sc (20)

Round 6 :

9 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc (22)

Round 7-11 :

sc in each stitch (22)

Round 12 :

sc in each stitch, then chain one & turn to start working in rows (22)

Info :

Working in rows instead of rounds. Make sure you have already chained & turned!

Round 13 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Round 14 :

dec, 12 sc, dec, chain one & turn (14)

Round 15 :

14 sc, chain one & turn (14)

Round 16 :

dec, 10 sc, dec, chain one & turn (12)

Round 17 :

12 sc, chain one & turn (12)

Round 18 :

dec, 8 sc, dec, chain one & turn (10)

Round 19 :

10 sc, chain one & turn (10)

Round 20 :

dec, 6 sc, dec, chain one & turn (8)

Round 21 :

8 sc, chain one & turn (8)

Round 22 :

dec, 4 sc, dec, chain one & turn (6)

Round 23 :

6 sc (6)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the sides of the body. Add stuffing to the bottom of the arm (the part that's in rows will be stuffed when the arm is sewed to the body).

— Feet :

Info :

Make two feet. Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in 'Birch'

Round 1 :

Chain 6. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 3 sc, make 3 sc in the last chain. Turn so you are working on the opposite side of the foundation chain. 4 sc. (12)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, 3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc, inc (18)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc (24)

Round 4 :

2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc (30)

Round 5 :

3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc (36)

Round 6 :

3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, sc (42)

Info :

Please note the beginning of round 6 does NOT have an error in it. My rounds shifted a bit (the first increase wasn't centered with the chain) - it should be '4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc' BUT instead, one of the first four single crochet stitches is at the end of the round. Ezpz.

Round 7-8 :

sc in each stitch (42)

Round 9 :

4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec (36)

Info :

Rounds shifted a bit, so instead of doing the 3 sc and then having the fourth sc at the END of the round, just do 4 sc at the beginning. These explanations are for nit-picky readers; you can follow the pattern exactly as written.

Round 10 :

3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec (30)

Round 11 :

2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec (24)

Round 12 :

2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (20)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew each of the feet to the body. Add stuffing to the feet.

— Foot pads :

Info :

Make two foot pads. Worked in joined rounds - slip stitch & chain one at the end of each round. Made in 'Taupe'

Round 1 :

Make 8 hdc in a magic ring, slip stitch to the first stitch & chain one (8)

Round 2 :

Make a half double crochet increase in the same stitch as the slip stitch. Half double crochet increase in each of the next 7 stitches. Slip stitch to the first stitch (16)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the foot.

— Belly Patch :

Info :

Worked in rows. Made in 'Birch'

Row 1 :

Chain 13. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 10 sc, inc, chain one & turn (14)

Row 2 :

inc, 12 sc, inc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 3 :

inc, 14 sc, inc, chain one & turn (18)

Row 4 :

inc, 16 sc, inc, chain one & turn (20)

Row 5 :

inc, 18 sc, inc, chain one & turn (22)

Row 6 :

inc, 20 sc, inc, chain one & turn (24)

Row 7-18 :

24 sc, chain one & turn (24)

Row 19 :

dec, 20 sc, dec, chain one & turn (22)

Row 20 :

22 sc, chain one & turn (22)

Row 21 :

dec, 18 sc, dec, chain one & turn (20)

Row 22 :

20 sc, chain one & turn (20)

Row 23 :

dec, 16 sc, dec, chain one & turn (18)

Row 24 :

dec, 14 sc, dec, chain one & turn (16)

Row 25 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 26 :

dec, 12 sc, dec, chain one & turn (14)

Row 27 :

dec, 10 sc, dec, chain one & turn (12)

Row 28 :

12 sc, chain one & turn (12)

Row 29 :

inc, 10 sc, inc, chain one & turn (14)

Row 30 :

inc, 12 sc, inc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 31-37 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 38 :

dec, 4 sc, dec. Place marker in the next stitch (the ninth stitch from row 37). Chain one & turn (6)

Row 39 :

6 sc, chain one & turn (6)

Row 40 :

dec, 2 sc, dec, chain one & turn (4)

Row 41 :

dec, dec, chain one & turn (2)

Row 42 :

dec (1)

Info :

Fasten off. Attach yarn in the stitch that was marked in row 37, when making row 38 & continue:

Row 43 :

dec, 4 sc, dec, chain one & turn 6 (6)

Row 44 :

6 sc, chain one & turn (6)

Row 45 :

dec, 2 sc, dec, chain one & turn (4)

Row 46 :

dec, dec, chain one & turn (2)

Row 47 :

dec (1)

Info :

Fasten off. Flip the belly patch over so that the right side of the piece is facing. Attach a new piece of yarn to the bottom left corner & sc a border around. Make 3 sc in row 42. Make 4 sc down the sides of the rows of the top piece. Dec over the next two stitches. Make 4 sc up the other side of the rows (on the second top piece) & make 3 sc in row 47. Then continue on down the other side of the piece.

Info :

Make sure that you have an even number of stitches on both of the long sides of the piece. When finished crocheting the border, fasten off & leave a very long tail to sew the belly patch to the body.

— Claws (hands) :

Info :

Make 10 claws (yeah, it's a pain). Made in 'White'

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring with 3 sc. Slip stitch to the first stitch (3)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the hands. If you are finding it difficult to make a magic ring with 3 sc: Chain 2. Make 3 sc in the second chain from the hook. Slip stitch to the first stitch (3). Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the hands.

— Claws (feet) :

Info :

Make 6 claws. Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in 'White'. You can start the claws the alternative way that the hand claws are made.

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring with 3 sc (3)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, inc (6)

Round 3 :

sc in each stitch (6)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew the claws to the feet.

— Assembly :

Info :

Stuff the body & head firmly. It'll take a LOT of stuffing, but that's okay. He'll be nice & cuddly.

Step :

Using the tail left over on the body, sew the body to the head. Sew through the tops of the stitches on the body and around the POSTS of the stitches from the last round of the head. The head should be slightly oval shaped (the increases from round 13 of the head should be on the sides) & the body is definitely oval shaped - be mindful of that when sewing the two pieces together.

Step :

Pin the belly patch to the body. The bottom of the patch should sit between rounds 15 & 16 of the body. The top of the belly patch should sit between rounds 8 & 9 of the head. Rows 27 & 28 of the belly patch are the neck; the rows after that are sewn to the head.

Step :

Work around the posts of the stitches on the border when sewing - it will give you a waaay neater look than whip stitching it on. Pin well with T-pins, lining up 5-6 stitches up each side before sewing.

Step :

Pin the ears to the head. They should sit between rounds 5 & 6, to between rounds 11 & 12 of the head. Before the ears are fully sewed on, add stuffing to them.

Step :

Pin the arms to the sides of the body. Line up the two sets of six stitches: top six (where fastened off) to the last round of the body (near the head) and the bottom six (left over from switching to rows) between rounds 28 & 29 of the body. Start sewing the arms on, sewing down the sides of the rows so the seam appears straight.

Step :

When close to finishing sewing each arm on, add stuffing to the row section so it blends with the bottom part of the arm/hand.

Step :

Pin 5 claws to each of the hands & sew them to the hands. They don't need stuffing and should end up fairly close to one another.

Step :

Sew a foot pad to each of the feet. They should sit between rounds 3 & 4 of the feet. Sew around the posts of the stitches on the foot pad for a neat finish.

Step :

Sew the feet to the body angled outwards. The bottoms of the feet should sit between rounds 12 & 13 of the body. The tops of the feet should sit between rounds 19 & 20 of the body.

Step :

Sew 3 of each of the foot claws to the feet. You can add a little bit of stuffing to them if you want. They should sit between rounds 7 & 8 to between rounds 8 & 9 of the feet.

Step :

Using a piece of black yarn, embroider the eyes & mouth on the head part of the belly patch. You can VERY carefully use a tiny bit of fabric glue to make the eyes a bit rounder. Cut two little triangles out of white felt for the teeth and glue them near the mouth with the top parts of the little triangles pointing upwards.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the body to the head using the long tail left on the body; sew through the tops of the stitches on the body and around the posts of the last round of the head for a neat join.
  • Pin and sew the belly patch to the body: bottom of the patch between body rounds 15 & 16, top of the patch between head rounds 8 & 9; sew around the posts of the border for a tidy finish.
  • Pin and sew ears between head rounds 5 & 6 to rounds 11 & 12; stuff the ears lightly before final sewing.
  • Align and pin arms so the top six stitches meet the last round of the body (near head) and the bottom six sit between body rounds 28 & 29, then sew in place and stuff the row section as you finish.
  • Attach feet with foot pads: sew foot pads to feet between foot rounds 3 & 4, then attach feet to body with bottoms between body rounds 12 & 13 and tops between rounds 19 & 20; sew claws to hands and feet as indicated.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds and the start of each round, especially when switching from rounds to rows.
  • 💡Stuff the body and head firmly but gradually; overstuffing can distort shaping while under stuffing leaves lumps.
  • 💡Pin all parts (belly patch, arms, ears, feet) with T-pins before sewing to ensure correct placement and symmetry.
  • 💡Sewing around the posts of stitches gives a much neater finish than whip stitching through loops.
  • 💡Leave very long tails when fastening off pieces that will be sewn (body to head, feet to body, belly patch) to make sewing easier.

This large Snorlax amigurumi is a super cozy, lovable project that becomes a cherished handmade companion. You'll enjoy the shaping, the plush Bernat Blanket yarn texture, and the neat finish when sewn around the posts. Make one for yourself or as a delightful, huggable gift! 🧶🧸

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 26 inches tall when using Bernat Blanket yarn and the recommended 7mm hook.

Can I use a different yarn weight for a smaller or bigger Snorlax?

Yes, you can change yarn weight and hook size; using worsted weight yarn with a smaller hook (3mm-4mm) will create a smaller Snorlax, while bulkier yarn yields a larger, chunkier plush.

Do I need advanced crochet skills for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and assumes you are comfortable with continuous rounds, basic increases and decreases, and switching between rounds and rows.

How much time does it take to complete this project?

Most crafters will spend around 12-15 hours to complete this large Snorlax, though time will vary by experience and stitching speed.