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Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern
4.6★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.5K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet a functional and decorative phone stand shaped like a horse or unicorn. It includes detailed rounds for each small part: arms (front legs), feet (hind legs), tail parts, mane parts, ears, jaw and the main body. The pattern uses DK weight yarn (or two strands of sport) and a 3.0 mm hook and offers optional pockets and color changes for a playful look.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Clear stitch-by-stitch instructions and photos help guide assembly and finishing. Suitable for crafters comfortable with continuous rounds, invisible decreases, and basic sewing.

Why You'll Love This Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns a simple crochet project into a delightful and useful object that brightens any desk. I enjoyed designing the little tail and mane parts — they let you mix colors and experiment with placement. I find the way the pockets and tail parts are integrated into the body especially satisfying when they all come together. The pattern balances fun details with clear, repeatable rounds so you can enjoy the making process without getting overwhelmed.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easily you can customize this pattern by changing colors for the mane and tail — try pastel shades for a soft unicorn or earthy tones for a realistic horse.

You can make the stand bigger or smaller by swapping yarn weight and hook size; heavier yarn with a larger hook makes a chunkier stand while sport weight makes a mini version.

I often experiment with the mane arrangement — mix three or four colors and alternate sizes for a playful look.

Try embroidering different facial expressions: moving the eyes or mouth changes the personality of the stand dramatically.

Make the pockets functional or decorative: use a contrast color and stitch them on the inside or outside for storage of small items like earbud cords.

For added stability consider inserting a small ring or cardboard disc at the base before stuffing to keep the bottom flat.

I sometimes add a felt base inside the hoof undersides to help the stand grip surfaces better if I plan to use it on smooth tables.

Change the placement and angle of the arms and feet slightly when attaching to give each version a slightly different pose — it’s a fun way to personalize a batch of gifts.

If you want a posable look, carefully insert thin wire into the limbs before stuffing; secure the wire ends inside the body so they can’t poke through the fabric.

To create a set, crochet several in different colorways and display them together — they make great handmade gifts and a striking shelf display.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not changing yarn color at the exact stitch can create a visible seam; change the color with the last stitch of the previous round to hide the transition. ✗ Skipping the back-loop only instruction when prompted will alter shaping and fit; follow the instruction 'in back loops' exactly for the specified rounds. ✗ Understuffing or overstuffing the hooves and body causes misshapen parts; stuff gradually and check the shape often to maintain the correct proportions. ✗ Forgetting to guide yarn-ends of tail parts through the body will make attaching tails difficult later; thread the yarn through the parts as instructed before closing the openings.

Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming phone stand in the shape of a horse or unicorn with this detailed crochet pattern. You will get step-by-step round instructions for each part so you can follow along easily. The pattern includes optional pockets, colorful mane and tail parts, and assembly guidance to finish a stable phone holder.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight yarn (example: Puppets Lyric 8/8) for body, approximately 80 g for body, legs, arms & ears
  • 02
    Color codes used in the pattern: horse: 5003 (brown), 5013 (dark brown), 5001 (black)
  • 03
    Unicorn color codes: 5000 (white), 5008 (red), 5037 (orange), 5024 (yellow), 5090 (green), 5020 (blue), 5028 (purple), 0248 (light gray), 5001 (black)
  • 04
    12 g for the hooves
  • 05
    12 g for the tail
  • 06
    7 g for the body's pockets
  • 07
    14 g for the mane
  • 08
    3 g for the horn
  • 09
    Some black for the eyes and a contrast color for the mouth

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.0 mm crochet hook
  • 02
    Tapestry needle(s)
  • 03
    Stitch markers (e.g. pieces of scrap-yarn)
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stuffing (polyester filling)
  • 06
    A bit of heavy stuffing (e.g. pea gravel, marbles, sand) placed inside a small freezer bag
  • 07
    A small freezer bag for the heavy stuffing
  • 08
    Optional: some colored pins

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— ARM (FRONT LEG) (make 2, begin with yarn in HOOF-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 16

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 24

Round 4 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 24

Round 5 :

sc in next 6 st, *inv_dec, sc in next st* x4, sc in next 6 st - 20

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 20

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 20

Info :

change to BODY-COLOR with last st

Instruction :

fasten off HOOF-COLOR and secure both yarn-ends with several knots on the hoof's inside

Round 8 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 20

Note :

stuff the hoof a little bit but keep the underside flat

Round 9 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 16

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Round 11 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Round 12 :

*sc in next st* around - 16

Instruction :

stuff the arm a little bit; the following part of the arm can remain empty

Round 13 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 6 st* x2 - 14

Round 14 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 15 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 5 st* x2 - 12

Round 16 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 17 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* x2 - 10

Round 18 :

*sc in next st* around - 10

Round 19 :

sc in next 4 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs → see page 28 for details on crocheting openings closed

Finish :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end → see page 29 for details on weaving in yarn-ends

— FOOT (HIND LEG) (make 2, begin with yarn in HOOF-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 16

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 24

Round 4 :

in back loops: *sc in next st* around - 24

Round 5 :

sc in next 6 st, *inv_dec, sc in next st* x4, sc in next 6 st - 20

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 20

Round 7 :

sc in next 7 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 5 st - 18

Info :

change to BODY-COLOR with last st

Round 8 :

in back loops: sc in next 5 st, *dec* x4, sc in next 5 st - 14

Note :

stuff the hoof a little bit but keep the underside flat; the following part of the leg can remain empty

Round 9 :

sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 5 st - 12

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 11 :

sc in next 4 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs

Finish :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— TAIL-PART 1 (smallest) (make 1, use yarn in TAIL-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 6 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 7 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Finish :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— TAIL-PART 2 (make 1, use yarn in TAIL-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 8 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Finish :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— TAIL-PART 3 (make 1, use yarn in TAIL-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 9 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 10 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 11 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Finish :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— TAIL-PART 4 (make 1, use yarn in TAIL-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 9 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 10 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 11 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 12 :

sc in next 2 st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs

Round 13 :

ch 1 + turn, begin in 2nd st from hook: *sc in next st* across - 4

Finish :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— OPTIONAL: POCKET (make 2, use yarn in POCKET-COLOR) :

Info :

After a couple of rounds guide the yarn-end from the beginning to the outside through the center of the magic ring.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 7 sc - 7

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 14

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 7 :

*sc in next st* around - 14

Round 8 :

*sc in next st* around (sl in last st) - 14

Finish :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the outside

— JAW (make 1, use yarn in BODY-COLOR) :

Info :

There are no regular increases here.

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

sc in next st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 3sc in next st - 11

Round 3 :

sc in next 2 st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next st, 3sc in next st, sc in next st - 17

Round 4 :

in this round two stitches are marked with additional markers; sc in next 3 st, 3sc in next st (mark the 1st of the 3-increase stitches), sc in next 2 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 3sc in next st (mark the 3rd of the 3-increase stitches), sc in next 2 st - 23

Round 5 :

sl in first st

Finish :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end on the back side

— MANE-PART 1 & 6 (smallest) (make 2, use yarn in MANE-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 6 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 7 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs

Finish :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— MANE-PART 2 & 5 (make 2, use yarn in MANE-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 8 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs

Finish :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— MANE-PART 3 & 4 (make 2, use yarn in MANE-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 8 sc - 8

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 4 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 4 st* around - 10

Round 8 :

*inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* around - 8

Round 9 :

sc in next st, now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs

Finish :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— EAR (make 2, use yarn in BODY-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 8

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around - 10

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* around - 12

Round 5 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 6 :

*sc in next st* around - 12

Round 7 :

now flatten the opening so that the stitch you made last sits on the side; both side-stitches remain unworked; crochet the opening closed with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs

Finish :

fasten off & weave in yarn-end

— HORSE/UNICORN (make 1, begin with yarn in BODY-COLOR) :

Round 1 :

magic ring of 6 sc - 6

Round 2 :

*2sc in next st* around - 12

Round 3 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next st* around - 18

Round 4 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 24

Note :

change of sequence: from here on there are 8 increases per round instead of 6

Round 5 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* around - 32

Round 6 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* around - 40

Round 7 :

sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 st* x7, 2sc in next st, sc in next st - 48

Round 8 :

sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 5 st* x7, 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st - 56

Round 9 :

*2sc in next st, sc in next 6 st* around - 64

Round 10 :

in this round the arms, feet & tail-part 1 are crocheted to the body (→ see page 30 for details on crocheting body-parts to the body); sc in next 2 st, place the first arm on top of your work; the hoof's underside rests against the work, the "toes" pointing towards the magic ring; crochet the first arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, now place the first foot in front of your work so that the "toes" are pointing towards you; crochet the first foot on with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st, crochet the second foot on with: sc in next 5 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st, crochet second arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, crochet tail-part 1 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 64

Info :

during the following rounds the remaining tail-parts are attached to the body; they need to be secured to the body later; for that you need to string the tail-parts on a piece of thread first; place the body in front of you so that the body's inside is facing up; guide a longish piece of yarn (about 30 cm) through two stitches of the first tail part, between rounds 4 & 5 (counted from the base); pull the yarn halfway through and let it hang there for now; during the following rounds guide the yarn-ends through each newly attached tail-part; in the end the yarn-ends run through all of the tail-parts; → see page 32 for details

Round 11 :

in this round tail-part 2 is crocheted to the body: sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 18 st, crochet tail-part 2 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61; guide each of the first tail-part's yarn ends through stitches on the second tail part, between rounds 3 & 4 on the underside and let them come out between rounds 4 & 5 on the other side

Round 12 :

in this round tail-part 3 is crocheted to the body: sc in next 55 st, crochet tail-part 3 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61

Round 13 :

in this round tail-part 4 is crocheted to the body: sc in next 55 st, crochet tail-part 4 on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 2 st - 61; guide the tail parts' yarn ends through stitches between rounds 3 & 4 and let them come out between rounds 8 & 9; let the yarn-ends hang there for now; tie one single knot if you like to secure them a bit (needs to be opened again later)

Round 14 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 8 st, inv_dec, sc in next 8 st, inv_dec, sc in next 23 st - 58

Round 15 :

*sc in next st* around - 58

Round 16 :

*sc in next st* around - 58

Round 17 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 22 st - 55

Info :

during the next two rounds the pockets are crocheted to the body; it's similar to crocheting body-parts to the body with the difference that you place the pockets inside the body instead of placing them in front of it; ignore the prompts for the pockets if you don't want any; keep crocheting with single crochets until the round is complete;

Round 18 :

in this round the first half of each of the two pockets is crocheted to the body (→ see page 33 for details): sc in next 10 st, place the first pocket inside the body; guide your hook through the next stitch of the body and from there through one of the stitches of the pocket; partially crochet the first pocket on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, partially crochet the second pocket on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st - 55

Round 19 :

in this round the second half of the pockets is crocheted to the body: sc in next 10 st, continue on pocket with: sc in next 7 st, continue on body with: sc in next 16 st, continue on second pocket with: sc in next 7 st, continue on body with: sc in next 15 st - 55

Round 20 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 6 st, inv_dec, sc in next 6 st, inv_dec, sc in next 21 st - 52

Round 21 :

*sc in next st* around - 52

Round 22 :

*sc in next st* around - 52

Round 23 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 5 st, inv_dec, sc in next 5 st, inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 49

Round 24 :

*sc in next st* around - 49

Round 25 :

*sc in next st* around - 49

Round 26 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 4 st, inv_dec, sc in next 4 st, inv_dec, sc in next 19 st - 46

Round 27 :

in this round the end of the first arm is crocheted to the body: sc in next 36 st, crochet the arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 6 st - 46

Round 28 :

in this round the second arm is crocheted to the body: sc in next 5 st, crochet the arm on with: sc in next 4 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 37 st - 46; secure the tail-parts to the body (→ see page 34); untie the knot (if you made one) and guide the prepared yarn-ends from the tail-parts through two stitches of the body; use stitches between round 6 & 7 (counted from the body's opening); make sure the tail-parts sit upright and centered between the arms; pull the yarn-ends tight on the body's inside and check the tail's position; if it looks good secure the yarn-ends with several knots on the body's inside

Round 29 :

sc in next 16 st, inv_dec, sc in next 3 st, inv_dec, sc in next 3 st, inv_dec, sc in next 18 st - 43

Round 30 :

in this round the jaw is crocheted to the body (→ see page 35): sc in next 18 st, place the jaw in front of the body so that the back side is facing towards you and the straight side with the two marked stitches is lined up with the stitches of the body; begin crocheting in the first of the marked stitches; leave the markers in until next round is done; crochet the jaw partially on with: sc in next 7 stitch-pairs (don't use the slip stitch in the middle for crocheting but the stitch the slip stitch sits in instead), continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* x3, sc in next 4 st - 46

Round 31 :

sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st* x3, sc in next 3 st, now continue along the jaw with: (begin in the free stitch next to the one with the marker) 2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next st* x2, *sc in next st, 2sc in next st* x2, sc in next 3 st, 2sc in next st, (the markers can now be removed) continue on body with: sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 3 st - 67

Stuffing :

stuff the body; put a handful of heavy filling (e.g. pea gravel, sand, marbles...) into a small freezer bag; close the bag and place it inside the Horse's body, towards the front; make sure the front stays flat, don't force it to bulge out; fill the rest with soft stuffing; make sure there are no dents left on the body, especially in the back where the tail-parts are attached

Round 32 :

sc in next 6 st, *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 49 st - 70

Round 33 :

*sc in next st* around - 70

Round 34 :

*sc in next st* around - 70

Round 35 :

at the end of this round the stitch-marker is set back by one stitch; leave the last stitch unworked because of that; sc in next 23 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 16 st, *inv_dec* x2, sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 2 st, leave the last stitch unworked - 63; remove the stitch-marker

Round 36 :

during this round two stitches are marked with additional markers; these positions are later needed for the nostrils; first put the round's stitch-marker in the first of the following stitches: sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 3 st* x3, sc in next 29 st (mark here stitches #10 & 20 with additional markers), *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 6 st - 58

Round 37 :

in this round the first mane-part is crocheted to the body; also two more stitches for the nostrils are marked; crochet mane-part 1 on with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 5 st, *inv_dec, sc in next 2 st* x2, sc in next 9 st, inv_dec, sc in next 9 st (mark stitches #2 & 9), inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 54

Round 38 :

in this round the second mane-part is crocheted to the body: crochet mane-part 2 on with: sc in next 3 stitch-pairs, continue on body with: sc in next 20 st, inv_dec, sc in next 7 st, inv_dec, sc in next 20 st - 52

Assembly Instructions

  • During round 10 attach the first arm and first foot to the body: place the hoof's underside against the body and crochet through both the arm's front loops and the body's stitches to create stitch-pairs; crochet each attachment with the specified number of single crochets and continue the round.
  • Attach the tail parts during rounds 11-13: thread a long length of yarn through tail-part 1 before closing, guide yarn-ends through each newly attached tail-part and secure all tail-ends inside the body later with knots to keep the tail upright.
  • Crochet the pockets to the inside of the body during rounds 18-19: place the pocket inside the body, guide the hook through a body stitch and a pocket stitch, and crochet the pocket on with the specified stitch-pairs so it sits inside the body.
  • Sew the jaw to the body on round 30: align the jaw so the marked stitches match body stitches, crochet the jaw on partially then continue with body rounds to integrate it smoothly; leave markers in place as instructed.
  • Secure mane parts to the body in rounds 37-38 by crocheting them on with 3 single crochet stitch-pairs each and mark nostril positions as directed for later embroidery.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds and marked positions, especially during the body shaping and when marking nostril positions.
  • 💡Stuff firmly but not too tightly to keep the shape; add the heavy stuffing in a small bag for stability and place it toward the front of the body.
  • 💡Guide yarn-ends of tail parts through the body as you attach them so they can be tightened and secured from the inside later.

This adorable Phone Stand Horse/Unicorn is a playful and practical crochet project to brighten any desk. It combines small parts and color changes for a fun, detailed finish. Perfect as a gift or a handmade accent to hold your phone with a smile. 🧶🦄

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

With the recommended DK yarn and 3.0 mm hook the finished phone stand measures about 15 cm wide and 17 cm tall (without horn).

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but it will affect the final size; use a larger hook for bulkier yarn and adjust stuffing and pocket placement accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate — familiarity with continuous rounds, invisible decreases, back/front loop crocheting, and basic seaming is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time varies based on experience and how many color changes and details you add.