🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Oakley the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern

Oakley the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern
4.7★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Oakley the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates Oakley the Monkey — a cuddly amigurumi with a removable cap, embroidered smile and a tiny surfboard accessory. You will crochet the monkey in separate pieces and assemble them for a polished, professional look. The pattern includes step-by-step rounds and helpful placement tips for eyes, nose and ears.

Oakley the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Detailed stitch counts and shaping techniques are provided for each section to ensure accurate assembly. Photos and finishing suggestions help you personalize Oakley with blush, a necklace, and hair tufts.

Why You'll Love This Oakley the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it balances clear construction with playful details that let your creativity shine. I enjoy how the removable cap and little surfboard add personality and allow for customization. The pattern encouraged me to experiment with color accents and finishing touches like blush and embroidered smiles. Making Oakley always feels rewarding because the assembly transforms simple pieces into a friendly companion.

Oakley the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Oakley the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Oakley the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Oakley the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize Oakley by changing yarn colors and accents; try pastel shades for a softer look or bold variegated yarns for fun shorts.

If you want a bigger or smaller Oakley, swap the yarn weight and adjust your hook size — bulky yarn with a larger hook will create a chunky buddy, while sport weight makes a mini version.

I often swap the safety eyes for embroidered eyes for a more child-safe toy; just embroider the pupil and add eyelids for extra personality.

Try adding tiny crocheted accessories like a scarf, hat, or mini surfboard straps to give Oakley seasonal or storybook character.

To make the monkey poseable, I sometimes add thin wire to the arms and tail — secure the wire ends inside the stuffing and make sure the wire is well covered for safety.

For unique textures, experiment with different stitch patterns on the shorts or body — bobble stitches or front-loop ridges add charming detail.

I like to embroider eyelashes or freckles to change the expression; small changes in eye placement or a stitched smile can dramatically alter the personality.

If you prefer a softer face, use smaller safety eyes and add more blush with makeup or fabric-safe pigment to achieve a gentle look.

Try substituting felt for the inner ear color if you want a contrasting texture and quicker assembly — glue or stitch it into place before joining the ears.

I recommend making a matching mini set (surfboard, hat, or necklace) in coordinating colors to create a themed gift set for friends and family.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping a stitch marker when working in continuous rounds will make it hard to find the start of the round; always place a marker at the beginning of each round to keep count. ✗ Not stuffing gradually results in lumps or flattened shapes; add stuffing in small amounts and shape as you go for even, rounded limbs and head. ✗ Changing colors without securing tails can cause loose ends and gaps; fasten off or weave in tails as you change colors and before closing openings. ✗ Rushing the eye placement can lead to uneven spacing and expression differences; place the eyes between the indicated rounds and count holes carefully before securing. ✗ Overtightening decreases will distort shaping and cause the piece to look lopsided; make decreases evenly and maintain consistent tension throughout the round. ✗ Not checking stitch counts after increases or decreases causes mistakes to compound; count stitches regularly, especially after shaping rounds.

Oakley the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern

Create Oakley, a charming handmade monkey amigurumi designed with clear step-by-step instructions and helpful photos. This pattern guides you through crocheting each part — legs, body, head, ears, arms, tail and playful accessories. Perfect for crafters who enjoy detailed, assembly-focused projects with bright accents and customizable finishes.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Oakley the Monkey Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 100g of main color (Color A: Brown)
  • 02
    Color B: Cream - approx amount used for head/face and feet trim
  • 03
    Color C: Variegated - 50-75g of accent color for shorts/accents
  • 04
    Color D: Yellow - small amount for surfboard detail
  • 05
    Color E: Blue - small amount for shorts/waistband detail
  • 06
    Exact yarn brands used (helpful reference): Brown: Red Heart Café Latte; Cream: Red Heart Aran; Variegated: Yes Sewing Blue; Yellow: Red Heart Daffodil; Blue: Red Heart Peacock

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size D / 3.25 mm
  • 02
    15 mm safety eyes (2 pieces)
  • 03
    12 mm oval safety nose (1 piece)
  • 04
    Safety washers for eyes (if using)
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing
  • 07
    Stitch markers
  • 08
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 09
    Black embroidery thread for smile and features
  • 10
    Button for necklace
  • 11
    Pipe cleaner (optional) for tail stuffing
  • 12
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Legs and Body :

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6

Round 2 :

Increase in each st around= 12

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6= 18

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6= 24

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6= 30

Round 6 :

sc in each st around

Info :

Change to Color A

Round 7-8 :

sc in each st around

Round 9 :

dec x 6, 18 sc= 24

Round 10 :

2 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec x 2, 7 sc= 21

Info :

Start stuffing the feet

Round 11-13 :

sc in each st around

Info :

Change to Color C

Round 14 :

(6 sc, inc) x 3= 24 (Mark the 3rd st on the 1st leg with a stitch marker)

Info :

Do not F/O the 2nd leg! Work 6 more sc around the top of the 2nd leg, (You are moving the starting position). Ch 4, work a sc into the marked stitch on leg 1, work 23 more sc around the 1st leg, work 4 sc on the back of the ch 4, work 24 more sc around the 2nd leg, work 4 sc on the front of the ch 4= 56

— Legs and Body Continued :

Round 1 :

sc in each st around

Round 2 :

(13 sc, inc) x 4= 60

Round 3-6 :

sc in each st around

Round 7 :

(8 sc, dec) x 6= 54

Info :

Stuff the body as you work

Round 8 :

sc in each st around

Round 9 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6= 48

Round 10 :

(On stitch 30 change to Color E) sc in each st around

Round 11 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6= 42

Round 12 :

(On stitch 25 change to Color A) sc in each st around

Round 13 :

sc in each st around

Round 14 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6= 36

Round 15 :

2 sc, bobble stitch, 33 sc= 36

Round 16-17 :

sc in each st around

Round 18 :

(10 sc, dec) x 3= 33

Round 19 :

sc in each st around

Round 20 :

(9 sc, dec) x 3= 30

Round 21 :

sc in each st around

Round 22 :

(8 sc, dec) x 3= 27

Round 23 :

sc in each st around

Round 24 :

(7 sc, dec) x 3= 24

Info :

F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

— Head :

Info :

Crocheted from top to bottom

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6

Round 2 :

Increase in each st around= 12

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6= 18

Round 4 :

sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc= 24

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6= 30

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc= 36

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6= 42

Round 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc= 48

Round 9-13 :

sc in each st around

Info :

(Mark the 1st and last increase of round 14 with a stitch marker)

Round 14 :

10 sc, inc x 6, 10 sc, inc x 6, 16 sc= 60

Round 15-18 :

sc in each st around

Info :

Place eyes between rounds 11 and 12, leaving 10 holes between them. Place the 1st eye before the 1st increase. Count 10 holes after the first eye and place the 2nd eye. If you want the sunken eye look, do not place the backs of the eyes on until round 23

Info :

Place nose in between rounds 14 and 15, in between the eyes.

Round 19 :

10 sc, (sc, dec) x 3, 12 sc, (sc, dec) x 3, 20 sc= 54

Round 20 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6= 48

Round 21 :

sc in each st around

Round 22 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6= 42

Round 23 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6= 36

Info :

Now for the eyes. Stuff the head well. Cut a long piece of yarn and remove the eyes. Place the needle in the hole where the first eye was and thread the needle into a hole next to the eye hole. Go back and forth between each eye hole repeating the process from the first eye. Pull slightly on the yarn after going through each hole. Do this about 3 times on each side until you reach the look you want. Follow the pictures on pg. 5-6 for help. There is also a youtube video I have for extra help on this process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XoBnTY6k70&t=55s

Info :

To place the backs of the eyes you will need to remove most of the stuffing to place the washers on the eyes then re stuff it.

Round 24 :

sc in each st around

Round 25 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6= 30

Round 26 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6= 24

Info :

F/O and leave a short tail

— Cap :

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6

Round 2 :

Increase in each st around= 12

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6= 18

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6= 24

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6= 30

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6= 36

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6= 42

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6= 48

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6= 54

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6= 60

Round 11-18 :

sc in each st around

Round 19 :

18 sc, 2 sl, 3 hdc, 4 dc, 3 hdc, 2 sl, 3 hdc, 4 dc, 3 hdc, 2 sl, 10 sc

Info :

F/O and leave a tail

— Ears :

Info :

Make 2 in Color A, 2 in Color B

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6

Round 2 :

Increase in each st around= 12

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6= 18

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6= 24

Info :

Do not F/O the Color A ears! Place the back sides of Color A and Color B ears together. You will be working around the ears to connect them together:

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6= 30

Info :

F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

— Arms :

Info :

Make 2

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc into a magic ring= 6

Round 2 :

Increase in each st around= 12

Round 3 :

(3 sc, inc) x 3= 15

Round 4 :

sc in each st around

Round 5 :

3 dc cluster, ch 1, 14 sc= 15

Round 6 :

(Do not work on the ch 1 from the previous round) (3 sc, dec) x 3= 12

Round 7 :

(2 sc, dec) x 3= 9

Info :

Start stuffing the arms

Info :

Change to Color A: No longer stuff the arms

Round 8-19 :

sc in each st around

Info :

Fold the arms in half and sc the opening closed. F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

— Tail :

Round 1 :

Make 4 sc into a magic ring= 4

Round 2 :

Increase in each st around= 8

Round 3-5 :

sc in each st around

Info :

Change to Color A: I did not stuff my tail, I used a pipe cleaner to stuff it instead

Round 6-29 :

sc in each st around

Info :

If you are using a pipe cleaner, fold the pipe cleaner in half and twist it together. Insert it into the tail. Fold the tail in half and sc the opening closed. F/O and leave a long tail for sewing

— Surfboard :

Round 1 :

Make 4 sc into a magic ring= 4

Round 2-4 :

sc in each st around

Info :

Change to Color D

Round 5 :

Increase in each st around= 8

Round 6 :

(sc, inc) x 4= 12

Round 7 :

(2 sc, inc) x 4= 16

Round 8 :

sc in each st around

Round 9 :

(3 sc, inc) x 4= 20

Info :

Do not stuff the surfboard

Round 10-44 :

sc in each st around

Round 45 :

(3 sc, dec) x 4= 16

Round 46 :

sc in each st around

Round 47 :

(2 sc, dec) x 4= 12

Info :

Change to Color A

Round 48 :

Dec x 6= 6

Info :

F/O and sew the hole closed

— Assembly :

Item Name (P1) :

Put the cap around the head. Your cap will cover half of the open hole on the bottom of the head.

Item Name (P2) :

Sew the head and body together. You may need to add more stuffing while you sew.

Item Name (P3) :

Pin the arms onto the side of the body approximately between rounds 22 and 23, then sew the arms onto the body.

Item Name (P4) :

Pin the ears onto the side of the cap approximately between rounds 13 and 14 and sew them onto the head.

Item Name (P5) :

Pin the tail right above your waistband on the body and sew the tail onto the back of the body.

Item Name (P6) :

If you want, thread a strand of thread through a button and tie it around the neck as a necklace.

Item Name (P7) :

Attach brown yarn to the top of the head with a sl st. Ch 6, sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and across. Sl st into the head. Repeat on top of the head 3 more times. Weave in the tail ends.

Item Name (P8) :

Embroider a smile on the side of the face. Add some blush to the cheeks and inside the ears if you want.

Assembly Instructions

  • Put the cap around the head so it covers about half of the open hole at the bottom of the head, then sew the cap in place to secure fit.
  • Sew the head to the body by aligning the head opening with the top of the body, adding extra stuffing as needed while stitching for a smooth joined seam.
  • Pin and sew the arms to the sides of the body approximately between rounds 22 and 23, ensuring both arms are positioned symmetrically before securing.
  • Pin and sew the ears to the cap approximately between rounds 13 and 14 so they sit evenly on each side of the head.
  • Attach the tail to the back of the body right above the waistband and sew securely, using a pipe cleaner inside the tail if you used one for structure.
  • Add finishing touches: embroider a smile on the side of the face, add blush to cheeks/inside ears, and thread a button necklace if desired.

Important Notes

  • 💡Do not join rounds unless stated; work in a continuous spiral to maintain seamless amigurumi shaping.
  • 💡Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round so you can track increases, decreases, and color changes accurately.
  • 💡All stitches are worked in both loops unless the pattern specifically states BLO or FLO for shaping variations.
  • 💡Place safety eyes between the specified rounds (head: between rounds 11 and 12) and count holes carefully for symmetrical placement.
  • 💡Stuff parts gradually and adjust stuffing during assembly to avoid lumps and to achieve the desired silhouette.

This Oakley the Monkey pattern brings a handmade friend to life with charming details and playful accessories. Whether you make one for yourself or as a thoughtful gift, Oakley is full of personality and easy to customize. Happy crocheting and enjoy every stitch! 🧶🐒

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 11 inches from bottom to top of head when using worsted weight (#4) yarn and a 3.25 mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will change the final size; adjust hook size accordingly and reposition eyes and nose if necessary.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and is best for crocheters familiar with single crochet, increases, decreases, and working in continuous rounds.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters finish this project in 5-7 hours, depending on experience, speed, and how much time you spend on assembly and finishing.

Can I use a pipe cleaner for the tail?

Yes, the pattern notes that the tail can be stuffed with a pipe cleaner for structure — fold it in half, twist, insert, then close the tail.

Are the safety eyes and nose sizes specified?

The pattern uses 15 mm safety eyes and a 12 mm oval safety nose; you can use different sizes but adjust placements accordingly.