🧶 Beautiful ✨ Detailed 💝 Adorable

Lighted "Granny" Pumpkin Pattern

Lighted
4.6★ Rating
2-3 Hours Time Needed
3.6K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Bite-Sized Project

Finishes in 2-4 hours—perfect for an afternoon of creative relaxation.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Lighted "Granny" Pumpkin Pattern

This pattern shows how to crochet lighted pumpkins in three sizes using medium worsted yarn and a simple granny-cluster technique. Each pumpkin is crocheted flat in rows, seamed into a tube, then shaped and finished with a stem, leaf, and curly vine. The pattern includes notes for adding a string of battery-operated fairy lights and optional mylar for a soft internal glow. Photos and detailed step instructions are included to guide you through each size.

Lighted

Suitable for anyone comfortable with basic stitches like sc, hdc, dc and simple cluster work. Use the sizes and yarn suggestions to make small, medium, or large pumpkins with glowing charm.

Why You'll Love This Lighted "Granny" Pumpkin Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns simple granny-cluster stitches into a charming, glowing decoration you can make in an afternoon. The texture created by the rows of clusters is addictive to crochet and looks amazing when lit from within with fairy lights. I enjoy that you can use leftover worsted yarn to make a whole collection in coordinating colors. Adding the mylar and lights gives each pumpkin a magical soft glow that always delights people who see them.

Lighted Lighted Lighted Lighted

Switch Things Up

I love how easily you can customize these pumpkins by changing yarn color and texture to suit your decor.

Try bulky yarn and a larger hook for an oversized, chunky pumpkin with a cozy look.

For minis perfect for garlands or keychains, use fingering yarn and a smaller hook to make tiny versions.

I often add embroidered veins on the leaves for extra detail and personality.

Swap the fairy lights for a battery tealight (in a safe holder) if you prefer a flickering glow rather than a string of LEDs.

Make matching sets in gradient tones or coordinated neutrals to create beautiful table arrangements.

Experiment with metallic or textured yarn for an elevated holiday-themed pumpkin with subtle shimmer.

I sometimes replace the crocheted leaf with a felted or sewn fabric leaf for a different texture and contrast.

Want a whimsical look? Add tiny crocheted faces or miniature hats to make character pumpkins for a playful display.

I also recommend trying different stitch patterns for the body—switch to shell stitches for a lacy effect that still shows the inner light beautifully.

If you like posable vines, thread a thin craft wire through a crocheted i-cord vine to bend and shape as you wish.

Remember to test battery placement before final assembly so you can easily change batteries and keep your pumpkins glowing for seasons to come.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the instruction to crochet over the tail when making the magic circle can cause the center to gape; crochet the first row stitches over the tail and pull the tail tight to close the hole. ✗ Counting stitches only at the end of a row leads to mis-shaped segments; count your stitches at the end of each row especially during decrease rows to ensure correct stitch counts. ✗ Forgetting that turning chains do not count as stitches may add extra stitches; always treat the turning chain as not a stitch and begin in the next specified stitch. ✗ Not pinning or checking placement before sewing parts together results in crooked assembly; use pins to position stem and leaf and check symmetry before sewing securely. ✗ Pulling your tension too tight when making granny clusters makes the piece too stiff; relax tension slightly and block gently if needed for softer shaping.

Lighted "Granny" Pumpkin Pattern

Make cozy, glowing pumpkins in three sizes using simple granny-style clusters and worsted weight yarn. This pattern guides you step-by-step to create Lighted "Granny" Pumpkins perfect for seasonal decor or handmade gifts. You will enjoy working a few rows of textured clusters and finishing with a stem, leaf, and a string of fairy lights for a warm glow.

Intermediate 2-3 Hours

Materials Needed for Lighted "Granny" Pumpkin Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (medium/#4) - Large pumpkins: less than 45g (83 yards) each; Caron One Pound in Cream or Red Heart Super Saver in Gold
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (medium/#4) - Medium pumpkins: less than 30g (55 yards) each; Caron One Pound in Off White or Pale Green
  • 03
    Worsted weight yarn (medium/#4) - Small pumpkins: less than 15g (28 yards) each; Red Heart Super Saver in Gold or Cornmeal
  • 04
    Odds-and-ends for stems, leaves, and curly vines: Red Heart Super Saver in Coffee, Cafe Latte, Warm Brown, Dark Jade, or Caron One Pound in Soft Sage

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size US H8/5.00mm
  • 02
    Yarn needle to weave in ends
  • 03
    Scissors to cut yarn
  • 04
    Pinch of polyester stuffing (poly-fill) for stuffing the stem
  • 05
    Clear 6 mil mylar craft plastic (optional, but highly recommended)
  • 06
    20-LED string battery-operated "fairy" lights in warm white for each pumpkin (Large pumpkin can support up to 50-LED; photos show two 20-LED strings used)
  • 07
    CR2032 or appropriate replacement batteries (highly recommended)
  • 08
    Stitch markers (optional)
  • 09
    Pins for assembly (optional)

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— Materials :

Info :

Suggested hook size: H8/5.00mm. All instructions are suitable for any medium worsted weight yarn. I prefer acrylic for its bold colors and easy care, but cotton would work equally well. For the Large Pumpkins, I used less than 45g (83 yards) for each pumpkin of Caron One Pound in Cream or Red Heart Super Saver in Gold. For the Medium Pumpkins, I used less than 30g (55 yards) for each pumpkin of Caron One Pound in Off White or Pale Green. For the Small Pumpkins, I used less than 15g (28 yards) for each pumpkin of Red Heart Super Saver in Gold or Cornmeal. For stems, leaves, and curly vines, I used odds-and-ends amounts of Red Heart Super Saver in Coffee, Cafe Latte, Warm Brown, Dark Jade, or Caron One Pound in Soft Sage.

— Gauge :

Info :

Gauge is unimportant for this pattern. Although personal thread tension and yarn choice may impact finished size somewhat.

— Size :

Info :

Large Pumpkin: Approximately 4-3/4" (12cm) wide by 5" (12.7cm) high (including stem). About 4" (10cm) high without stem.

Info :

Medium Pumpkin: Approximately 4" (10cm) wide by 4" (10cm) high, including stem. About 3" (7.6cm) high without stem.

Info :

Small Pumpkin: Approximately 3" (7.6cm) wide by 3-1/2" (9cm) high (including stem). About 2" (5cm) high without stem.

— Notions :

Infos :

Yarn needle to weave in ends. Scissors to cut yarn. Pinch of Poly-fill for stuffing the stem. Clear 6 mil mylar craft plastic. (Optional, but highly recommended.) 20-LED string of battery-operated "fairy" lights in warm white for each pumpkin. (Large Pumpkin can support up to 50-LED. Photos show two 20-LED strings used.) CR2032 or appropriate type of replacement batteries (highly recommended).

— Terminology :

Info :

All instructions are in Standard/US terms. Abbreviations used include ch = chain, sc = single crochet, sc2tog = single crochet 2 together, sl st = slip stitch, sk st = skip stitch, hdc = half double crochet, dc = double crochet, FL = front loop of stitch, BL = back loop of stitch. Brackets [ ] indicate repeat across the row and parentheses ( ) indicate repeat in next stitch. Magic Circle explanation: a method to begin the first round of a circular pattern providing a clean, tight circle.

— How to Make a Magic Circle :

Round 1 :

1. Form the yarn into a circle.

Round 2 :

2. Cross the top thread under the circle and pull through as though you're about to create a slip knot, but do not tighten the circle.

Round 3 :

3. Insert hook into the loop.

Round 4 :

4. While pinching the yarn tail and circle firmly together, ch 1. This chain helps secure the yarn, and does not count as a stitch.

Round 5 :

5. Crochet the first row's stitches (ex: 6 sc) into the circle, being sure to crochet over both strands of yarn.

Round 6 :

6. Pinch the yarn tail firmly between your thumb and forefinger, and pull tightly until circle closes.

Round 7 :

7. Finished! The first round of the pattern is now complete with a clean, tight center. Look! No hole! Tip: To make sure everything stays nice and tight, crochet over the tail end of yarn for the first few stitches of the second row.

— Large Pumpkin :

Info :

Hook size: US H8/5.00mm. Yarn: Caron One Pound in Cream or Red Heart Super Saver in Gold. Turning chains do not count as stitches.

Info :

Begin by working ch 14.

Round 1 :

sc in second chain from hook and in next st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st) (Fig. L-1)

Round 2 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters) (Fig. L-2)

Round 3 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. L-3)

Round 4 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters) (Fig. L-4)

Round 5 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. L-5)

Round 6 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches) (Fig. L-6)

Round 7 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round 8 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 9 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 10 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 11 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 12 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches) (Fig. L-7)

Round 13 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round 14 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 15 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 16 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 17 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 18 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Round 19 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round 20 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 21 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 22 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 23 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 24 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Round 25 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round 26 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 27 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 28 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 29 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 30 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Round 31 :

— working in front loops only — sc in first 2 st, 2 sc, sc, [2 sc in next 2 st, sc] 2 times, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (19 st)

Round 32 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 33 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 34 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 4 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 5 granny clusters)

Round 35 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 4 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 36 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, [sc2tog, sc] 5 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (13 stitches)

Info :

Finish off, leaving 14" yarn tail. (Fig. L-8 & L-9)

Info :

See assembly instructions beginning on page 27.

— Medium Pumpkin :

Info :

Hook size: US H8/5.00mm. Yarn: Caron One Pound in Off White or Pale Green. Turning chains do not count as stitches.

Info :

Begin by working ch 12.

Round 1 :

sc in second ch from hook and in next st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 st, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st) (Fig. M-1)

Round 2 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. M-2)

Round 3 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters) (Fig. M-3)

Round 4 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters) (Fig. M-4)

Round 5 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches) (Fig. M-5)

Round 6 :

— working in back loops only — sc in next 2 st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Round 7 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 8 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 9 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 10 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches) (Fig. M-6)

Round 11 :

— working in front loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Round 12 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 13 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 14 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 15 :

(for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches)

Round 16 :

— working in back loops only — sc in next 2 st, 2 sc, sc, 2 sc in next 3 stitches, sc, 2 sc, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (16 st)

Round 17 :

— working in both loops from now on — sc in first two st, ch 1, sk st, [3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 18 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, dc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 3 times, sk 3 st, dc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 19 :

sc in first two st, ch 1, sk first ch and dc st, [3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 3 times, 3 dc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last dc and ch-1 space, sc in last 2 st. Ch 1, turn. (2 sc on each end + 4 granny clusters)

Round 20 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first 2 st, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog 3 times, sc, sc2tog, sc in last two st. Ch 1, turn. (11 stitches)

Info :

Finish off, leaving 14" yarn tail. (Fig. M-7)

Info :

See assembly instructions beginning on page 27.

— Small Pumpkin :

Info :

Hook size: US H8/5.00mm. Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver in Gold or Cornmeal. Turning chains do not count as stitches.

Info :

Begin by working ch 8.

Round 1 :

sc in second chain from hook, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st) (Fig. S-1)

Round 2 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters) (Fig. S-2)

Round 3 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters) (Fig. S-3)

Round 4 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters) (Fig. S-4)

Round 5 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches) (Fig. S-5)

Round 6 :

— working in back loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Round 7 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 8 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Round 9 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 10 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Round 11 :

— working in front loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Round 12 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 13 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Round 14 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 15 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Round 16 :

— working in back loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Round 17 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 18 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Round 19 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 20 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Round 21 :

— working in front loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Round 22 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 23 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Round 24 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 25 :

— (for this decrease row, do not count ch-1 spaces as stitches; skip over them as though they don't exist) — sc in first st, sc2tog 2 times, sc, sc2tog 2 times, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (7 stitches)

Round 26 :

— working in back loops only — sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc, 2 sc in next 2 st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (11 st)

Round 27 :

sc, ch 1, sk st, [3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk 2 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next st, ch 1, sk st, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Round 28 :

sc in first st, ch 1, hdc in first ch-1 space, ch 1, [sk 3 st, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1] 2 times, sk 3 st, hdc in last ch-1 space, ch 1, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc on each end + 2 granny clusters)

Round 29 :

sc, ch 1, sk first ch-1 space and hdc, [3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk 3 st] 2 times, 3 hdc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, sk last hdc and ch-1 space, sc in last st. Ch 1, turn. (1 sc in each end + 3 granny clusters)

Info :

Finish off, leaving 14" yarn tail. (Fig. S-6 & S-7)

Info :

See assembly instructions beginning on page 27.

Assembly Instructions

  • Line the inside of the crocheted pumpkin with clear 6 mil mylar craft plastic to help reflect the fairy lights and protect the yarn from direct heat, smoothing the mylar to fit the dome shape before inserting lights.
  • Insert the battery-operated fairy light string into the pumpkin, arranging LEDs evenly around the inside so the glow shows through the granny clusters; secure the battery pack near the opening so it can be accessed later.
  • Gather the open edge of the crocheted tube and sew it closed with the long yarn tail using a whipstitch or running stitch, shaping the pumpkin as you pull the yarn tight so the sections form ridges.
  • Create and attach the stem by stuffing a small crocheted tube slightly with poly-fill and sewing it to the top center, then sew the leaf and curly vine beside the stem for decoration.
  • If desired, secure the battery pack to the interior base with a few stitches or a small loop of yarn so it stays in place but can still be removed to change batteries.
  • Pin parts in place before sewing to ensure correct symmetry and spacing; stitch stems and leaves firmly with hidden or ladder stitch so they remain stable during use.
  • Trim and weave in any remaining yarn tails with a yarn needle, and test the lights once assembly is complete to confirm even illumination and comfortable fit.

Important Notes

  • 💡Turning chains do not count as stitches—always begin in the next specified stitch to keep your stitch count accurate.
  • 💡Gauge is unimportant for this pattern, but personal tension will affect finished size; adjust yarn or hook if you want a different size.
  • 💡Use stitch markers or count regularly during decrease rows to avoid accidentally skipping stitches and to keep segments even.
  • 💡Pin all parts in place before sewing to ensure symmetrical placement of stem, leaf, and vines.
  • 💡Weave in ends as you go and leave long sewing tails for assembly to avoid extra finishing work.

These Lighted "Granny" Pumpkins add a handmade, cozy glow to any autumn display or centerpiece. Use scrap yarn to create a set of mixed sizes for a warm, layered tablescape. They make thoughtful seasonal gifts and are quick, satisfying makes to brighten your home. 🧶🍂🎃

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

Large is about 4-3/4" wide by 5" high including stem; Medium about 4" wide by 4" high; Small about 3" wide by 3-1/2" high including stem.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights but the finished size will change; choose an appropriate hook for your yarn and be aware the illumination effect may differ.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic crochet stitch knowledge and comfort with front/back loop work, clusters, and simple decreases are recommended.

How do I safely add the fairy lights?

Use battery-operated low-heat LED fairy lights and optionally line the pumpkin with clear mylar to reflect light; secure the battery pack near the opening so it can be removed or replaced safely.

Can I wash these pumpkins?

Spot clean only to protect the lights and mylar; remove batteries and light strings before any cleaning and avoid submerging the finished pumpkin.