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Flower Garden Hood Pattern

Flower Garden Hood Pattern
4.7★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.8K Made This
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Intermediate Level

I deal with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

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Snug Essential

Everyday comfort with practical charm, designed for both functionality and style through changing seasons.

About This Flower Garden Hood Pattern

This pattern creates a thick, lined hood adorned with cascading vines, leaves, and four different styles of flowers for a storybook garden look. It uses medium weight yarn (and scrap yarn) worked in two strands to build structure, plus many small motifs to attach later. The design encourages creative placement so each finished hood will be unique and delightfully textured.

Flower Garden Hood Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Youll make the hood foundation, a pull string, and numerous flowers, leaves, and vines to decorate it. Techniques include half double crochet shaping, small motif construction, and freeform embellishing.

Why You'll Love This Flower Garden Hood Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it encourages creativity and improvisation while still giving clear instructions for the core pieces. I enjoy mixing scrap yarn colors to create unexpected tones and textures that look intentional and magical. The hood becomes a wearable art piece, and I love seeing how different color palettes change the mood of the design. Sewing on the flowers and arranging the vines is my favorite calming finishing step that makes each hood truly one-of-a-kind.

Flower Garden Hood Pattern step 1 - construction progress Flower Garden Hood Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Flower Garden Hood Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Flower Garden Hood Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this pattern is for customization; you can change the color palette to totally alter the vibe—try autumn browns and oranges for a fall hood or pastel shades for a spring look.

If you want a chunkier hood, use bulkier yarn or hold three strands together and a larger hook to create a cozier, faster-working project.

To make a daintier, keychain-friendly version, work the flowers and vines with single strands and a smaller hook, then attach a small hood-shaped motif as a charm.

I often substitute different flower motifs I already know; feel free to replace any flower pattern here with one you love and sew it into the same positions.

Try adding beads or small sequins to flower centers for subtle sparkle; stitch them on securely after the motifs are attached to the hood.

For a posable vine, consider threading thin armature wire inside a crocheted tube of the vine to wrap and bend it around shoulders or arms.

I like alternating leaf sizes on a single vine to give it a more organic look—make some leaves larger by adding chains or extra stitches to the base.

Experiment with texture by using boucle, chenille, or novelty yarn for filler vines so the climbing vines with flowers stand out more.

Make interchangeable clusters: sew flowers onto small felt circles that can be stitched or snapped onto the hood and swapped later to change the design.

If youre gifting the hood, embroider a small name tag inside the seam or add a matching little wrist cuff or mini scarf made in the same flower palette for a coordinated set.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not using two strands as recommended; your hood may be floppy and not support heavy vines and flowers; use two strands for a thicker, stronger fabric. ✗ Failing to leave long tails on flowers and leaves; that makes attaching motifs difficult and messy; leave 3-4 inch/7-10cm tails for sewing and weaving in. ✗ Skipping the decrease rows while shaping the hood; the shape will not form correctly and the hood will look boxy; follow the decrease instructions each row to make the diagonal shaping. ✗ Using only one hook size for all elements can cause inconsistent sizes and tension; choose the recommended larger hooks for vines and smaller ones for delicate petals to maintain proportion. ✗ Not folding and seaming before finishing the hood will make seaming awkward; fold the hood in half and seam the shorter side together before fastening off to create the proper hood shape.

Flower Garden Hood Pattern

Make a whimsical Flower Garden Hood with cascading vines and handcrafted flowers. This pattern guides you through making a sturdy lined hood and a variety of large and small crochet flowers and leaves to embellish it. Youll use scrap yarn, multiple hook sizes, and freeform techniques to create a unique wearable garden. Perfect for makers who love texture, layering, and creative finishing touches.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Flower Garden Hood Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Acrylic medium 4 (worsted) yarn - assorted scrap/upcycled yarns totaling approximately 28oz / 800g (minimum required)
  • 02
    Color A: Dark green (for dark vines and large leaves) - small to medium amounts
  • 03
    Color B: Earth green (for one set of climbing vines) - small amounts
  • 04
    Color C: Bright green (for another set of climbing vines) - small amounts
  • 05
    Color D: Yellow green (for third vine set and accents) - small amounts
  • 06
    Color E: White or cream (for flower type assigned to dark vines) - small amounts
  • 07
    Color F: Light pink (for light roses) - small amounts
  • 08
    Color G: Medium pink (for medium flowers) - small amounts
  • 09
    Color H: Dark pink/magenta (for the bright magenta flower type) - small amounts
  • 10
    Assorted accent colors for flower centers (yellow, peach) - small amounts
  • 11
    Note: Some yarns may be doubled or tripled (the designer sometimes used 2-3 strands held together)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook N - 9.00mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook K/10 1/2 - 6.50mm
  • 03
    Crochet hook J/10 - 6.00mm
  • 04
    Crochet hook I/9 - 5.50mm
  • 05
    Crochet hook H/8 - 5.00mm
  • 06
    Crochet hook G/6 - 4.25mm
  • 07
    Metal weaving needle (recommended, I used 2)
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Hot glue (optional)
  • 10
    Yarn/tapestry needle for sewing and finishing
  • 11
    Stitch markers (helpful when shaping rows and counting)
  • 12
    Measuring tape or ruler to check tail lengths (3-4 inches)

Progress Tracker

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— Intro Notes :

Info :

This pattern was written with freeform and creativity in mind. Those of you who are more experienced and familiar with freeform crochet, you will be able to add your own personal touches to this hood, making it truly unique and one of a kind! For those of you who are just starting out, I hope that you will be able to learn some new techniques and methods in this pattern that you can apply to future projects and carry with you as you explore the endless world of freeform crochet!

Info :

There will be a lot of ends to weave in with this piece, as it uses many different yarns. Weave in as you work and finish sections (flowers, leaves, vines) to make things easier towards the end.

Info :

4 types of flowers will be assigned to 4 types of climbing vines, just to keep things organized. I assigned the white flowers to the dark vines, the light pink roses to the earth green vine, the medium pink flower to the bright green vine, and the dark pink/magenta flower to the yellow green vine. The filler vines do not have any flowers.

Info :

I find that keeping the hood one solid color really makes the flowers, leaves, and vines visible since they are so colorful. If the hood is made with different colors, you may not be able to see them as well.

Info :

Each flower type (1-4) has a large version and a small version. Try to keep both versions of each flower the same color, so they appear to be part of the same plant. Example: if you make large flower 3 a blue flower, make small flower 3 also blue.

— Materials :

Info :

Yarn – as you can see from the pictures, I had a lot of thrifted/upcycled/scrap yarns from other projects, so its impossible for me to know the yardage. Most of the yarn appeared to be acrylic medium 4. The finished hood weighed about 28oz/800g, so you will need at very least this weight. The yarns were different sizes and lengths, so sometimes I would triple the yarn if it was very thin. Sometimes I would use up a color and I would add a similar color to finish a vine or a flower, so dont worry too much about running out of a color, it will make it special and unique!

Info :

Hooks - N 9.00mm, K/10 1/2-6.50mm, J/10-6.00mm, I/9-5.50mm, H/8-5.00mm, G/6-4.25mm. I used 6 different hook sizes, so there is no gauge and there is no size. You dont need to use all these hooks, but use ones that you are comfortable with when doubling or tripling the yarn.

Info :

Weaving needle - I absolutely recommend a metal weaving needle because there will be a lot of ends to weave in. I find plastic weaving needles hard to work with, so the metal ones will be your best friend here.

Info :

Scissors. Hot glue (optional).

Info :

Terms/Abbreviations: (US terminology) beg – beginning, ch – chain, sc – single crochet, hdc – half double crochet, dc – double crochet, tr – treble crochet, dtr – double treble, sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together, hdc2tog – half double crochet 2 stitches together, sk – skip, inc – increase, dec – decrease, cont – continue, slst – slip stitch, sp – space, st – stitch, sts – stitches, rep – repeat, betw – between, prev – previous.

— Hood :

Info :

Working with 2 strands of yarn at once, Ch 123. Note: I recommend using 2 strands at once here because you want a thick and strong hood that will be able to withstand the weight of the flowers and vines.

Round R1 :

hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each ch until you reach the end, ch2 and turn work (121 hdc)

Info :

Make holes for pull string

Round R2 :

hdc2tog the first 2 sts, hdc in next 8 sts, *ch 1, skip next st, hdc in next 3 sts* rep ** 24 more times, Ch 1, sk next st, hdc in the next 8 sts, hdc2tog the last 2 sts. Ch2 and turn work (91 hdc, 26 ch 1 spaces, 2 hdc2tog)

Round R3 :

hdc2tog the first 2 sts. Hdc in each st and each ch 1 sp until you reach the last 2 sts of the row. Hdc2tog the last 2 sts. Ch 2 and turn work (115 hdc, 2 hdc2tog)

Round R4 :

hdc2tog the first 2 sts, hdc in each st until you get to the last 2 sts of row, hdc2tog the last 2 sts of row, ch2 and turn work (113 hdc, 2 hdc2tog)

Round R5 - R28 :

repeat row 4 by continuing to decrease with hdc2tog at the beginning and at the end of each row to form a diagonal on each side. By the time you finish row 28, your count should be 65 hdc and 2 hdc2tog and you should have what is pictured below.

Info :

Before you fasten off, fold the hood in half and seam the shorter side together to create the hood.

Info :

Make pull string: Using an N hook (9.00 mm) ch st three strands at once to make a long chain tie to weave through the holes you made at R2. There is no set number of ch sts here, just make it as long as you wish, using the hood as a reference.

— Large flower 1 :

Info :

Make 2, one for each side of hood. Flower middle: Ch 3, and then slst in 3rd ch from hook to make a circle. R1: Ch 2, 10 hdc in center of circle, Slst in beginning ch2, ch1, do not turn work. R2: 10 sc in each st, slst in beginning ch1. (Circle should be curved like a tiny bowl). Fasten off to change color.

Round R3 :

slst in BL of work, *ch 8, dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in remaining 6 ch down from hook, slst in next BL* to make next petal, repeat ** 9 more times until you work all the way around the circle and have 10 big petals. Slst in next FL, do not turn work.

Round R4 :

*ch 5, slst in next ch from hook, slst in remaining 3 ch from hook until you are back at the base, slst in same FL, ch5, slst in next ch from hook, slst in remaining 3 ch from hook, Slst in next FL* of base so that you are now working on top of big petals from R3, repeat ** until you are back the beginning of the row and have 20 small petals. Slst in base and fasten off. Finished flower 1 should look like pictured.

— Leaf 1 for large flower 1 :

Round R1 :

Ch 11. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch until you reach the end. Ch 1 and turn work (10 sc).

Round R2 :

*in the first 4 sts, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, and 1 tr. 5 dtr in the next st.* in the next 5 sts, (1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc), and then Slst in the last st. Ch 3 and then rotate work so that you are now working on the other side of the 10 sc. Slst in first st and ch1, repeat ** and then in the remaining 4 sts of the row, repeat ( ), fasten off. Finished leaf 1 should look like picture D6.

— Small flower 1 :

Info :

Make 16, eight for each assigned vine on each side of hood. Pink yarn: Ch3, Slst in the 3rd ch from hook to make a circle. R1: *ch 4, Slst in center of circle*, repeat ** 9 more times so that you have 10 petals. Fasten off.

Info :

Yellow yarn: Ch 3 and Slst in first ch to make a circle, fasten off and use a weaving needle and the tail ends to weave onto the center of flower. Do not cut off the tail ends (we will use the to attach to vines later).

— Large flower 2 :

Info :

Make 2, one for each side of hood. Note: This flower is basically a classic crochet rose. Ch44. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch until you reach the end. Ch4 and turn work (43 sc).

Round R2 :

dc in 1st st (counts as 1st ch3 space) sk st, *dc in next st, ch3, dc in same st, sk st,* repeat ** until you reach the end of the row. Your work should start to curl. Ch1 and turn work. (22 ch 3 spaces/dc V spaces)

Round R3 :

8 dc in ch3 sp, slst in next st, *8 dc in ch3 sp, slst in next st,* repeat ** until you reach the end of the row. Slst in the bottom end ch and fasten off. Your work should look like picture H.

Info :

Roll up your flower and stitch it up with your needle as you roll, starting from the center. This is what the top and underside should look like when stitched.

— Leaf 2 for large flower 2 :

Round R1 :

Ch 10. Slst in end of ch to make a circle.

Round R1 detail :

R1: Ch1, 3 sc in circle, 3 hdc in circle, 3 dc in circle, 3 tr in circle, 1 DTR in circle, ch 3, slst in the top of dtr st and then slst 1 more time on side of same DTR st, 1 dc in circle, 1 hdc in circle, 8 sc in circle. At this point you should be close enough beginning sc of the row to slst into it. Fasten off. Finished leaf 2 should look like picture K9.

— Small flower 2 :

Round R1 :

Make 16, eight for each assigned vine on each side of hood. Ch10 (keep tail about 3-4 inches so you can use it later to attach flower to vine). R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in the next 2 ch, *2 hdc in the next ch,* repeat ** 2 more times, (* 2 dc in the next ch, *) repeat (**) 2 more times. You should be at the end of the ch 10. Slst into the bottom 1st ch of ch10 and fasten off with a 3" long tail. (3 sc, 6 hdc, 6 dc, two 3" tails).

Info :

Roll up flower and use a needle and tails ends to secure flower. finished small flower 2 should look like picture M.

— Large flower 3 :

Round R1 :

Make 2, one for each side of hood. R1: make magic circle ring and Ch3 (counts as 1st dc) dc 11 times in circle. Close circle and Slst in the top of starting ch3 and fasten off (12 dc, keep both tails long).

Info :

Fasten off to change color. Note: the yarn I used for flower 3s petals was very thin, so I ended up crocheting with three strands at once to give it some bulk. This is optional.

Round R2 :

Slst into work and ch2, dc in same st, dc in next st, ch 2, slst into same st, *slst into next st, ch2, dc in same st, dc in next st, ch2, slst in same st,* repeat ** until you have 6 petals in total. Slst into base of 1st petal.

Round R3 :

working behind the petals, *ch 4 and slst into a st in between the next petal*, repeat ** until you have 6 ch4 spaces behind petals.

Round R4 :

*Slst into next ch4 sp, ch2, dc 3 sts into same ch4 sp, ch2 and slst into same sp,* repeat until you have 6 larger petals behind the first 6 petals you made in R2. (Picture shows finished stage).

Round R5 :

working behind the petals you made in R4, *ch 5 and slst into a st in between the next 2 petals*, repeat ** until you have 6 ch5 spaces behind petals you made in R4.

Round R6 :

*Slst into next ch5 sp, ch2, 2 dc into same ch5 sp, 1 tr into same ch5 sp, ch 2, slst into top st of tr st, 1 tr into same ch5 sp, 2 dc in same ch5 sp, ch2 and slst into same ch5 sp,* repeat ** until you have 6 larger pointed petals behind the petals you made in R4. Slst in ch5 sp and fasten off. Picture N7 is what finished flower 3 should look like, picture N8 is what it looks like underneath.

— Leaf 3 for Large flower 3 :

Round R1 :

Make 4, two for each large flower 3. Note: This leaf is pretty simple, so you may want to use two strands of yarn at once and a larger hook so that they come out bigger. Ch 10. R1: Slst in 1st st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in the rest of the sts until you reach the end of the ch. Fasten off.

— Small flower 3 :

Round R1 :

Make 16, eight for each assigned vine on each side of hood. Make magic circle ring and ch1 (make sure starting tail is about 3" long). R1: 10 sc in center of circle, slst into the starting ch1. Close circle and fasten off. (Tail should be about 3" long).

Round R2 :

Color change. Note: for the small version of flower 3, I used only one strand of the thin yarn and a smaller hook so that the flower would be small and dainty. R2: slst into a sc st, *ch2, 1 dc in same st, 1 tr in same st, 1 tr in next st, 1 dc in same st, ch2, Slst in same st, Slst in next st*, repeat ** until you have 5 petals. Slst in same st as starting ch2 and fasten off.

— Large flower 4 :

Info :

Make 2, one for each side of hood. Top portion of flower 4: Make magic circle ring (be sure to keep circle loose until we are ready to close it at the end of R2). R1: *ch7, Slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 3 ch sts, Slst in center of magic circle*, repeat ** 2 more times. You should have three half petals here.

Round R2 :

(starting from the bottom of the 1st half petal you made from R1) *dc in bottom dc of first petal, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, Slst at top of petal, ch 1, Slst in each ch st in center of petal until you reach the center of magic circle, Slst to outer part of petal*, repeat ** 2 more times. Slst in center of magic circle. Close magic circle and fasten off. (3 petals)

Info :

Bottom portion of flower 4: Repeat all steps in R1 and R2 to make the bottom portion of the flower. Optional: to make the bottom petals slightly larger than the top petals, add 1 more ch to the base of petals if you wish (instead of ch7 in row 1 make ch8). Use the bottom tails of top flower to attach the two together. To make the pictured yellow center, make magic circle, ch 3, and work 8 dc in center. Close magic circle ring, Slst in starting ch3 and fasten off. Use the tails to attach to center of petals. Finished large flower 4 should look like picture S11.

— Leaf 4 for large flower 4 :

Round R1 :

Make 4, two for each large flower 4. Ch10. R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch until you reach the end. Ch 6 and turn work (10 sc).

Round R2 :

*Slst in 2nd ch from hook, Slst in each ch until you get to the 10 sc base. Slst in next st* and ch6, repeat **, ch 5, repeat **, ch 5, repeat **, ch 4, repeat **, ch 4, repeat **, ch 3, repeat **, ch 3, repeat **, ch 2, repeat **, ch 2, Slst in 2nd ch from hook, slst on end/side of 10 sc base, ch 2, Slst in 2nd ch from hook, rotate work so that you are now on the other side of the 10 sc base. Slst in 1st st and ch 2, repeat **, ch 2, repeat **, ch 3, repeat **, ch 3, repeat **, ch 4, repeat **, ch 4, repeat **, ch 5, repeat **, ch 5, repeat **, ch 6, repeat **, fasten off.

Info :

Optional stem: The stem is optional. Before you fasten off, sc in end/side of 10 sc base, (ch 1, turn, sc,) repeat ( ) 4 more times to make a stem. Fasten off.

— Small flower 4 :

Info :

Make 16, eight for each assigned vine on each side of hood. Make magic circle. *Ch3, tr in center of circle, ch2, Slst in 2nd ch from hook, tr in center of circle, ch3, Slst in center of circle* repeat ** 3 more times until you have 4 petals in total. Close circle and fasten off.

— Vines :

Info :

Note: You can add as many vines to this hood as you want. The more the better. For the pictured hood, I made 14 vines altogether (7 on each side). I suggest keeping the number of vines on each side an odd number so that you can have climbing vines on the outer parts and filler vines on the inner parts.

Info :

Instructions summary: 4 vines are climbing up the side (so 8 climbing in total) and 3 vines are filler (6 filler vines in total). The climbing vines will be the ones with flowers and the fillers dont have flowers. There are 4 different ways/types I did the vines and I made them all different colors so they appear to be all different types of plants. The easiest way I found to do these was to use 2 strands of yarn at once and a larger hook so that they come out thicker and it's easier to gauge length. Remember to make the climbing vines a little longer so that a portion can be added to the sides of the hood. The length choice is totally up to you!

— Vine type 1 (small leaf) :

Round V1 :

Ch 5. Slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, Slst in last ch.

Round V2 :

*Ch 10, Slst in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, Slst in BL of next ch, throw work to back and pull off a loop around work*, cont to repeat ** until you reach a desired length. This grows your vine with small leaves along the chain.

— Vine type 2 (large leaf) :

Round W1 :

Ch2, *2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in same ch, dc in same ch and ch 2*, Slst in 2nd ch from hook, dc in same ch as prev dc, hdc in same ch, 2 sc in same ch, Slst in beg sc, ch 8* repeat ** until your vine reaches the desired length. This creates larger leaves spaced along a chain.

— Vines continued :

Info :

For vine types you can vary the spacing, number of leaves, and how many chains between leaf clusters. The pattern photos show example stages for V1-V9 and W1-W9. Use two strands for thicker vines and a larger hook for body-wrapping vines.

Assembly Instructions

  • Fold the hood in half lengthwise and seam the shorter side together to create the hood shape; seam with mattress stitch or whipstitch from the inside for a neat finish.
  • Weave the pull string through the ch-1 spaces created in R2; tie and finish ends so the hood can be cinched to frame the face.
  • Arrange and pin the large flowers to the outer sides of the hood; use long tail ends from each flower to sew them securely to the hood with a yarn needle.
  • Attach leaves and smaller flowers to matching vines with long tails; then sew the vines to the hood along the seams and surface placement you prefer, using matching yarn and small stitches.
  • Use a metal weaving needle to weave in all ends as you go, and trim or tuck tails for a tidy underside; hot glue can be used sparingly for stubborn pieces but sewing is recommended for durability.
  • Pin all motifs in place before permanently sewing so you can step back and adjust composition for symmetry and visual balance.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use two strands of yarn held together for the hood body to ensure the fabric is thick enough to support the weight of vines and flowers.
  • 💡Keep beginning and ending tails on flowers and small motifs about 3-4 inches (7-10cm) long so you can use them to sew pieces securely to vines and the hood.
  • 💡Weave in ends as you go to avoid a huge finishing session later and to keep the underside tidy and comfortable.
  • 💡Fold and seam the hood before final fastening off so the seam lines match and you can check fit before attaching heavy embellishments.

This Flower Garden Hood Pattern invites you to create a wearable garden full of blooms and vines, using scrap yarn and simple crochet techniques. Each hood becomes a unique piece of art as you choose colors and arrange motifs. Embrace freeform creativity and enjoy the meditative process of shaping, sewing, and finishing this magical accessory. 🧶🌸

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FAQs

What size will the finished hood be?

The finished hood size varies depending on hook and yarn choice, but using two strands of medium 4 yarn and the recommended hooks produces an adult-size hood similar to the pictured sample.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but the structure and final size will change. If using thinner yarn, hold multiple strands together or use a smaller hook for motifs and adjust lengths accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of crochet stitches (sc, hdc, dc, slst, chain) and experience with shaping and reading short row instructions is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours, though time will vary depending on how many vines and flowers you make and how much embellishment you add.