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DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern
4.0★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.3K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern teaches you how to crochet Doll Zoey, a boho-style amigurumi complete with layered dress, granny-square coat, wig and shoes. It uses sport weight cotton yarn and works in rounds and joined rounds for detailed shaping. The instructions include stitch counts and finishing steps so you can recreate the doll exactly as shown.

DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern includes complete materials and tools lists, stitch explanations, and helpful photos for tricky steps. Ideal for making a collectible doll or a special handmade gift.

Why You'll Love This DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it blends classic amigurumi shaping with decorative clothing techniques that make the doll feel truly special. I enjoy the layering of the dress and how each layer adds texture and charm. The granny square coat is a fun modular piece that lets me play with colors and placement. Sewing on the wig and tiny details is my favorite finishing step — it brings the character to life.

DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to personalize Doll Zoey by changing yarn colors — try a pastel palette for a soft nursery version or jewel tones for a bold collectible.

I often swap the cotton yarn for a soft acrylic or wool blend to create a cuddly, slightly larger doll by using a bigger hook.

I sometimes size the doll down for a keychain by using fingering yarn and a 1.75 mm hook to create tiny portable versions.

I like to add wire armatures inside the arms for light posability if I want the doll to hold accessories or stand in different poses.

I add embroidered facial details or different eye placements to dramatically change the doll's expression and personality.

Try different coat patterns — make a long cardigan instead of granny squares or add fringe and tassels for boho flair.

I experiment with hair by making a curly wig (wrapping strands around a small dowel) or by using fuzzy novelty yarn for a whimsical look.

Swap the shoe design for boots or ballet flats by adjusting the upper rows and adding different sole materials like felt or leather for durability.

I like to embroider little motifs on the dress layers or add tiny crocheted flowers and buttons for extra charm.

For gifts, I coordinate the doll and outfit colors to match nursery themes or recipient favorite shades and package the doll with a mini care card for a special presentation.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping the stitch marker when working spiral rounds causes lost round starts; always place and move a stitch marker at the beginning of each round. ✗ Stuffing the body or head too quickly can create lumps and misshapen curves; stuff gradually in small amounts while shaping for even form. ✗ Ignoring stitch counts after increases or decreases results in uneven shaping; count stitches at the end of each round to ensure accuracy. ✗ Pulling yarn too tight on small parts like the cuff or shoe edges makes them stiff and hard to join; maintain consistent, moderate tension and check fit frequently. ✗ Not securing safety eyes before stuffing will misplace the eyes when stuffing; set safety eyes in place between the specified rounds before stuffing and secure with washers.

DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

Make a charming Boho-inspired Doll Zoey with this detailed intermediate crochet pattern. You will create a fully dressed amigurumi with layered lace dress, granny-square coat, wig, and shoes. The pattern includes full stitch-by-stitch rounds, color suggestions, and assembly notes so you can recreate every adorable detail. Perfect for crafters who love detailed toys and collectible dolls.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for DOLL ZOEY Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    COTTON yarn (sport weight - 5 ply): CATANIA - Schachenmayr (100% Cotton, 1.78 ounces = 137 yards / 50 grams = 125 meters), 12 different colors
  • 02
    Color A: 263 soft apricot - < 1 ball (head, arms, feet, neck)
  • 03
    Color B: 105 natur - 2 balls (body, dress)
  • 04
    Color C: 164 jeans - < 1 ball (leggings)
  • 05
    Color D: 247 sky - ~2 yds/2 m (leggings detail)
  • 06
    Color E: 172 silver - < 1 ball (sole of shoe)
  • 07
    Color F: 110 black - 7 yds / 6 m (shoe)
  • 08
    Color G: 251 magenta - < 1 ball (coat, beanie, shoe)
  • 09
    Color H: 192 claret - < 1 ball (coat, beanie)
  • 10
    Color K: 397 turquoise - < 1 ball (coat, beanie, flower)
  • 11
    Color L: 226 lavender - < 1 ball (coat, beanie, shoe lace)
  • 12
    Color M: 252 dark coral - 1 ball (coat, beanie)
  • 13
    Color N: 157 marone - 1 ball (wig)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook US 1½ (2.5 mm)
  • 02
    Crochet hook US 2½ (3.0 mm)
  • 03
    Crochet hook US 4 (3.5 mm)
  • 04
    Tapestry needles (usual and extra long)
  • 05
    Sewing needle
  • 06
    Sewing thread
  • 07
    Stitch marker
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Pins
  • 10
    Fiberfill (polyester stuffing)
  • 11
    2 black safety eyes, Ø 6 mm
  • 12
    Cardboard or plastic for the soles
  • 13
    3 tiny buttons for the coat and the flower
  • 14
    Strong thread (dental floss) for thread jointing
  • 15
    Optional: wooden spoon/chopstick and clamping scissor to simplify the filling

Progress Tracker

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— Head :

Info :

Work the head in spiral rounds. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn color A.

Rd 1 (RS) :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)

Rd 2 :

6 inc (12 sts)

Rd 3 :

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Rd 4 :

*1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (24 sts)

Rd 5 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Rd 6 :

*2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 6 times (36 sts)

Rd 7 :

*1 inc, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Rd 8 :

*5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (48 sts)

Rd 9 :

*3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc* crochet 6 times (54 sts)

Rd 10 - 19 :

54 sc (10 rds) (54 sts)

Rd 20 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 4 sc* crochet 6 times (48 sts)

Rd 21 :

*5 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Rd 22 :

*1 inv-sc2tog, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (36 sts)

Rd 23 :

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Rd 24 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 6 times (24 sts)

Info :

Safety eyes: Set the eyes in place first. Make sure the working yarn of the head is at the back. Put the eyes between round 12 and 13, 8 stitches apart. Poke the eye shafts through to the inside of the head and fasten with the washers that came with them.

Info :

Stuff the head.

Rd 25 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 6 time (18 sts)

Rd 26 :

*7 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet twice (16 sts)

Info :

1 slst in next st, fasten off, leaving a 20"/50 cm tail, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (see photo 1, page 6). Stuff the remaining head with fiberfill. Do not weave in end, use it for later to sew the head onto the body.

— Body :

Info :

Work the body in spiral rounds. Starting at neck, with hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and yarn color A.

Rd 1 (RS) :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 8 sc in magic ring (8 sts)

Rd 2 :

8 inc (16 sts)

Rd 3-10 :

16 sc (8 rds) (16 sts)

Info :

1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st. The slst mark the center back of the body. Switch to yarn color B and work an uncounted rd of slst as follows: Insert hook in the NJ, yo, pull through lp. 1 slst in next st and all remaining sts. Work the last slst in the same st where the yarn was attached.

Rd 11 :

(Work in the sts of rd 10), (see photo 9) *3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (20 sts) - mark the beginning of the rd with a stitch marker

Rd 12 :

20 sc (20 sts)

Rd 13 :

1 sc, 1 inc, *4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 3 times, 3 sc (24 sts)

Rd 14 :

24 sc (24 sts)

Rd 15 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (30 sts)

Rd 16 :

30 sc (30 sts)

Rd 17 :

1 sc, 1 inc, *4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 5 times, 3 sc (36 sts)

Rd 18 :

36 sc (36 sts)

Rd 19 :

*1 inc, 5 sc* crochet 6 times (42 sts)

Rd 20 :

42 sc (42 sts)

Rd 21 :

5 sc, *1 inc, 6 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inc, 1 sc (48 sts)

Rd 22-23 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the first layer of the dress. Continue working in spiral rounds. The chains are included in the stitch count at the end of each rd.

Layer I, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) *1 sc, 1 ch, sk 2 sts, [1 inc, 1 ch, 1 inc], 1 ch, sk 2 sts* crochet 8 times (64 sts)

Layer I, Rd 2 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [1 inc, 2 ch, 1 inc] in next ch1-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times (72 sts)

Layer I, Rd 3-4 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 sc, 2 ch, 3 sc] in next ch2-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times (88 sts)

Layer I, Rd 5 :

*1 sc in next sc, 2 ch, [3 sc, 2 ch, 3 sc] in next ch2-sp, 2 ch* crochet 8 times (104 sts)

Layer I, Rd 6 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc] in next ch2-sp, 1 ch* crochet 8 times, FO, 1 NJ in next sc (88 sts)

Info :

Continue working on the body. Fasten on the same yarn in any st at the back of the body. Working in spiral rounds.

Rd 24 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 23) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rd 25 - 26 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the second layer of the dress. Continue working in spiral rounds.

Layer II, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) *2 sc, 1 inc* crochet 16 times (64 sts)

Layer II, Rd 2-3 :

64 sc (64 sts)

Layer II, Rd 4 :

*3 sc, 1 inc* crochet 16 times (80 sts)

Layer II, Rd 5-10 :

80 sc (80 sts)

Layer II, Rd 11 :

(work all sts FLO) 80 slst (80 sts)

Layer II, Rd 12 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 10) *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 20 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (80 sts)

Rd 27 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 26) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rd 28-29 :

48 sc (2 rds) (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the third layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch.

Layer III, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *5 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (56 sts)

Layer III, Rd 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 2 dc, [2 dc], *6 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 3 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (64 sts)

Layer III, Rd 3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 6 dc, [2 dc], *7 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (72 sts)

Layer III, Rd 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), *1 sc, 1 ch, sk 2 sts, [2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc], 1 ch, sk 2 sts* crochet 12 times (96 sts)

Layer III, Rd 5-6 :

*1 sc in next sc, 1 ch, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc] in next ch1-sp, 1 ch* crochet 12 times (120 sts)

Layer III, Rd 7 :

*1 sc in next sc, [5 dc, 1 ch, 5 dc] in next ch1-sp* crochet 12 times, FO, 1 NJ in next sc (144 sts)

Rd 30 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 29) 1 s-sc, 47 sc (48 sts)

Rd 31-32 :

48 sc (48 sts)

Info :

Now work the fourth layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch.

Layer IV, Rd 1 :

(work all sts FLO) 1 sc, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *5 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (56 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 2 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 1 dc, [2 dc], *6 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 4 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (64 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 6 dc, [2 dc], *7 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 1 slst in 1st dc (72 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 4 dc, [2 dc], *8 dc, [2 dc]* crochet 7 times, 3 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 5 :

(work all sts FLO), 1 ch (does not count as st), 80 sc (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 6-13 :

80 sc (8 rds) (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 14 :

(work all sts FLO) 80 slst (80 sts)

Layer IV, Rd 15 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 13)* 4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 20 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (80 sts)

Info :

Now work the fifth layer of the dress. Working in joined rounds. The beginning '1 sc-1 ch' and the ending slst of each rd count together as a double crochet stitch. Fasten on the yarn in any st at the back of the body.

Layer V, Rd 1 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 4, layer IV) 1 s-sc, 1 ch, 79 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 2-3 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc in same st where slst of previous rd was made, 1 ch, 79 dc, 1 slst in 1st dc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 4 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 80 sc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 5-6 :

80 sc (80 sts)

Layer V, Rd 7 :

*9 sc, 1 inc* crochet 8 times (88 sts)

Layer V, Rd 8-9 :

88 sc (88 sts)

Layer V, Rd 10 :

(work all sts FLO) 88 slst (88 sts)

Layer V, Rd 11 :

(work BLO in the sts of rd 9)* 4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 22 times, FO, 1 NJ in 1st slst (88 sts)

Info :

Photo 10 shows the finished dress. Next crochet the collar. Make sure the neck of the body is pointing towards you. Work in the slip stitches BLO of the uncounted rd you worked after finishing rd 10 of the body. Mark a st at the front of the body, lining up with the lace. Attach the yarn color B in the st (BLO) to the left of the marked st. Work in rows. The turning chain does not count as st.

Collar, Rd 1 (RS) :

1 ch (does not count as st), *1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 7 times, 1 sc, 1 ch, turn work (22 sts)

Collar, Rd 2 :

sk 1 st, 2 sc, *1 inc, 2 sc* crochet 5 times, 1 inc, 1 sc, sk 1 st, 1 sc, ch, turn work (26 sts)

Collar, Rd 3 :

sk 1 st, 23 sc, sk 1 st, [3 sc], (work sidewise in the edge sts of rd 1) 1 sc, 1 slst in same st where last st of rd 1 was made, 1 slst in next "free" slst of the uncounted rd of the body, 1 slst in same st where first st of rd 1 was made, (work sidewise in the edge sts of rd 1-2) 2 sc, [1 sc, 1 slst] in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st

Info :

Continue with the body. Now you are starting with the leggings of the doll. Use the yarn color C. Attach yarn in any st (BLO) at center back. Work all sts of rd 1 of the leggings in the BL of the sts of rd 32 of the body (see photo 12).

— Arm/Sleeve :

Info :

The arm is worked in spiral rounds. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn colors A and B. Stuff the arm as you go. Start with yarn color A.

Rd 1 (RS) :

Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)

Rd 2 :

6 inc (12 sts)

Rd 3 :

*1 sc, 1 inc* crochet 6 times (18 sts)

Rd 4 - 6 :

18 sc (3 rds) (18 sts)

Rd 7 :

16 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (17 sts)

Rd 8 :

7 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 7 sc, 1 CL-6 (16 sts)

Rd 9 :

14 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (15 sts)

Rd 10 :

1 inv-sc2tog, 13 sc (14 sts)

Rd 11 :

6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 6 sc (13 sts)

Rd 12 :

11 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (12 sts)

Rd 13 :

4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 6 sc (11 sts)

Rd 14 :

9 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog (10 sts)

Rd 15-17 :

10 sc (3 rds) (10 sts)

Rd 18 :

10 sc, 1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (10 sts)

Info :

Switch to yarn color B to work the sleeve. Before starting the sleeve cut a length of 10 m (11 yds) of the yarn color B and keep to one side ready to work the cuff of the sleeve (or use the other yarn tail of the ball). Attach the yarn in any st of rd 18 that is at the back of the arm (opposite of the thumb).

Rd 19 :

1 s-sc, 9 sc (10 sts)

Rd 20 :

(work all sts BLO) 10 sc (10 sts)

Rd 21-25 :

10 sc (5 rds) (10 sts)

Info :

Place working yarn loop on a locking stitch marker and crochet the cuff of the sleeve. Make sure the hand points away from you. Use the extra length of the yarn color B or use the other yarn tail of the ball and rejoin the yarn in any st (FL) of rd 19 that lies opposite of the thumb. Work in spiral rounds.

Cuff, Rd 1 :

(work FLO in the sts of rd 19) *1 sc (the 1st sc of the rd will be a s-sc), 1 inc* crochet 5 times (15 sts)

Cuff, Rd 2-3 :

15 sc (15 sts)

Cuff, Rd 4 :

*2 sc, 1 inc* crochet 5 times (20 sts)

Cuff, Rd 5-6 :

20 sc (20 sts)

Cuff, Rd 7 :

*4 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (24 sts)

Cuff, Rd 8-9 :

24 sc (24 sts)

Cuff, Rd 10 :

*5 sc, 1 inc* crochet 4 times (28 sts)

Cuff, Rd 11 :

28 sc (28 sts)

Cuff, Rd 12 :

(work all sts BLO), *4 slst, 3 ch* crochet 7 times (28 sts)

Cuff, Rd 13 :

(work FLO in the sts of rd 11) 28 slst (28 sts)

Info :

FO, 1 NJ in next st.

— Leg (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Work the leg in spiral rounds. Starting at sole, with hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and yarn color A.

Rd 1 (RS) :

(work all sc in BB of the chains) 6 ch, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, [3 sc], bottom side of chain: 3 sc, 1 inc (12 sts)

Rd 2 :

1 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18 sts)

Rd 3 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet 3 times, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (24 sts)

Rd 4 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc (32 sts)

Rd 5 :

1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet twice, *1 sc, 1 inc* crochet twice, 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, *1 inc, 1 sc* crochet twice, 1 sc, 1 inc (42 sts)

Rd 6-10 :

42 sc (5 rds) (42 sts)

Rd 11 :

12 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 2 sc* crochet 3 times, 1 inv-sc2tog, 16 sc (38 sts)

Rd 12 :

8 sc, *1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc* crochet 3 times, *1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 3 times, 12 sc (32 sts)

Rd 13 :

7 sc, 7 inv-sc2tog, 11 sc (25 sts)

Rd 14 :

8 sc, 2 hdc, 1 hdc2tog, 1 hdc, 12 sc (24 sts)

Rd 15 :

*4 sc, 1 sc2tog* crochet 4 times (20 sts)

Rd 16-17 :

20 sc (2 rds) (20 sts)

Rd 18 :

*3 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (16 sts)

Rd 19-21 :

16 sc (3 rds) (16 sts)

Rd 22 :

16 sc, 1 slst in next st, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Info :

Now work the leggings. Switch to yarn color C. Before starting the leggings cut a length of 3 m (just over 3 yds) of the yarn color C and keep to one side ready to work the turn-up of the leggings (or use the other yarn tail of the ball). Fasten on the new yarn in the NJ of previous rd.

Rd 23 :

(work all sts BLO) 16 sc (16 sts)

Rd 24-30 :

16 sc (7 rds) (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 1 :

(work in the sts of rd 22 FLO) 1 s-sc, 15 sc (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 2 :

16 sc (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 3 :

16 sc, 1 slst, FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Turn-up, Rd 4 :

Switch to yarn color D. Attach the new yarn in any st at the back of the leg. 1 ch (count as 1st st), 15 sc, FO, 1 NJ in next st (16 sts)

Rd 31-43 :

16 sc (13 rds) (16 sts)

Rd 44 :

*2 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (12 sts)

Rd 45 :

*1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog* crochet 4 times (8 sts)

Info :

Cut yarn, leaving a 12"/30 cm tail. Stuff the remaining leg with fiberfill. Close the hole as described on page 6. Photo 19 shows the finished leg.

— Shoes (MAKE 2) :

Info :

Work the shoe in spiral rounds, in turned (joined) rounds and in rows. Starting at sole, with hook US 4 (3.5 mm) and the yarn color E. Start working in spiral rounds.

Rd 1 - 5 :

repeat rd 1-5 of the leg (see page 16) (42 sts)

Rd 6 :

42 sc, 1 slst in next st (42 sts)

Rd 7 :

1 ch (does not count as st), 42 bpsc (for the 1st bpsc insert hook from back to front in same st where slst of previous rd was made), FO, sk 1 st, 1 NJ in next st (42 sts)

Info :

Based on the NJ of rd 7 count 9 sts to the right and place a marker in this 9th st. Switch to yarn color F. Working a joined round. Attach yarn in any st at the back of the heel. When you reach the marker place 1 rd higher in same st.

Rd 8 :

1 ch (count as st), 41 sc, FO, 1 NJ in 1st sc (the NJ and the underlying ch count together as a sc) (42 sts)

Info :

Switch to yarn color G and hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm. Attach yarn in marked st. Working in turned (joined) rounds. The turning ch does not count as st.

Rd 9 (RS) :

1 ch (count as st), 41 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc (the slst and the underlying ch count together as a sc), 1 ch, turn work (42 sts)

Rd 10-12 :

42 sc, 1 slst in 1st sc, 1 ch, turn work (42 sts)

Row 1 (RS) :

13 sc, 1 ch, turn work (13 sts)

Row 2 :

6 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 5 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 3-4 :

12 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 5 :

1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 4 sc, 1 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Row 6 :

12 sc, 1 ch, turn work (12 sts)

Info :

Now work 2 rounds around the whole shoe. Work in spiral rounds.

Final Rd 1 (RS) :

11 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc each sidewise in the edge sts of row 5-1 (= 5 sc), 8 sc, 3 inv-sc2tog, 1 sc, 3 inv-sc2tog, 8 sc, 1 sc each sidewise in the edge sts of row 1-4 (= 4 sc), 1 inc sidewise in the edge sts of row 5 (47 sts)

Final Rd 2 :

12 slst, sk 2 sts, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc], sk 2 sts, 23 slst, sk 2 sts, [3 dc, 1 ch, 3 dc], sk 2 sts, FO, 1 NJ in next st (49 sts incl. slst and ch)

Info :

Weave in all loose ends. Use the hook US 1½ or 2.5 mm and the yarn color L. Work approx. 75 chains and thread the shoelace. Tie the ends and make a loop.

— Coat (make components) :

Info :

The coat consists of the body part and the two sleeves. For the coat you have to work 20 granny squares - three for each sleeve and 14 for the body part. You need also 6 triangles for the body part of the coat. For all parts of the coat use the hook US 1½ (2.5 mm). Start with the granny squares. Because you will change color every round, finish the round with a NJ. I have used 4 different colors (G, H, K and L) for the granny squares. Use any 3 yarn colors of your choice for each granny square. Use the crochet chart 3 on page 37 also.

Granny Square (make 20) - Rd 1 (RS) :

Start with 1st yarn color of your choice. Magic ring: 1 ch (does not count as st), 1 sc, 1 ch (sc and ch count together as 1st dc), 11 dc in magic ring, FO, 1 NJ in 1st dc (12 sts)

Granny Square - Rd 2 :

Switch to 2nd yarn color of your choice. Fasten on between any 2 dc. 1 ch (count as 1st sc), 1 ch, *1 sc between next 2 dc, 1 ch* crochet 11 times, FO, 1 NJ in 2nd ch (24 sts incl. ch)

Assembly Instructions

  • Set safety eyes between round 12 and 13 on the head, 8 stitches apart, push eye shafts through to the inside and fasten with washers before stuffing.
  • Attach the head to the body using the long tail left after closing the head. Position the head on top of the neck, align center back stitches, and sew securely with a yarn needle using the mattress or whipstitch.
  • Sew arms onto the body at the side seams opposite the thumb placement (attach the sleeve join to the body between appropriate dress layers so the cuff and sleeve line up naturally). Stuff arms lightly as you go and sew firmly in place.
  • Sew legs into bottom opening of the body; insert cardboard or plastic soles into the shoe soles before finishing so the doll stands upright. Space legs evenly and stitch through the body base to secure for stability.
  • Join granny squares and triangles to make the coat body and sleeves, then sew the finished coat to the doll over the dress. Attach tiny buttons to the coat front and sew the flower accessory in place with sewing thread.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the beginning of rounds and to identify the center back of the body for correct placement of parts.
  • 💡Stuff pieces gradually in small amounts and use a stuffing tool (chopstick or wooden spoon) to push fiberfill into corners for smooth shaping.
  • 💡Insert cardboard or plastic into shoe soles (cut to size of rounds 1-6) before finishing the shoe to help the doll stand upright.
  • 💡Finish rounds with a needle join (NJ) when changing colors or sections where indicated to produce a neater color join and less jog in height.
  • 💡Weave in ends as you go when changing colors every round; this simplifies sewing and finishing later.

This Doll Zoey pattern brings boho charm to life with layered lace dress, granny square coat, tiny shoes and a sweet wig. 🧶 The project is perfect for stitchers who enjoy color play, shaping and little finishing details that make a doll truly special. ✨ Make one for yourself or as a heartfelt handmade gift that will be cherished by collectors and children alike. 🎁

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 12 1/4" or 31 cm tall when using the recommended yarn and hooks.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will affect the final size and gauge. The pattern is written for sport weight cotton; if using a different weight adjust hook sizes and expect size changes.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; basic knowledge of crochet in rounds, increases/decreases, and reading stitch counts is recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours across multiple sessions due to the many layers, clothing pieces and assembly steps.