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Aestas Top Pattern

Aestas Top Pattern
4.4★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.5K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

👕

Casual Chic

Relaxed style with a modern twist, perfect for everyday wear while maintaining that handcrafted uniqueness.

About This Aestas Top Pattern

This pattern creates the Aestas Top, a lightweight summer tank crocheted in worsted cotton with decorative openwork panels down the sides. It is worked seamlessly from the top down with an openwork yoke and short-row shaping for a comfy fit. The versatile design can be lengthened or shortened to suit your style and includes sizes XS to XL.

Aestas Top Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Detailed instructions and helpful photos guide you through the openwork yoke, short rows, and bodice shaping. Suitable for crocheters comfortable with basic stitches and ready to try a few intermediate techniques.

Why You'll Love This Aestas Top Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines airy openwork with a structured bodice for a flattering summer silhouette. I enjoy how the short-row sections create a comfortable back fit while keeping the front neat and smooth. The seamless top-down construction makes it quick to work and easy to adjust as you go. I also adore using breathable worsted cotton for a polished finish that wears well in warm weather. This pattern lets me experiment with colour and length while still producing a practical, everyday top.

Aestas Top Pattern step 1 - construction progress Aestas Top Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Aestas Top Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Aestas Top Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customise this top by changing yarn colorways; try block colors or stripes for a bold summer look.

You can make the top longer to create a tunic by working more bodice rounds before finishing — just measure as you go.

If you want a smaller or larger finished size, swap yarn weight and adjust hook size, remembering to check gauge each time.

Try a lighter DK weight yarn with a smaller hook for a more delicate, lacy version that is perfect for layering.

For a chunkier, cozy version, use a bulky cotton blend and a larger hook to create a relaxed slouchy tank.

I often add a simple picot or shell edging around the armholes and neckline for a decorative finish.

Experiment with turning the openwork yoke into a different stitch motif by substituting ch-sp repeats with small shell clusters for a personalised texture.

Consider adding a small crochet belt or tie at the waist to give the top a different silhouette and additional styling options.

Try adding short sleeves by crocheting a few rounds around the armhole opening before finishing to convert the tank into a short-sleeve top.

I sometimes embroider tiny accents along the side openwork panels to highlight the lace detail and make each piece unique.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Not checking the gauge can result in a top that is too small or too large; make a 10x10 cm gauge swatch of 14 dc x 8 rows and adjust hook size to match the gauge. ✗ Working the foundation chain twisted will prevent the yoke from sitting flat; when joining the chain, take care not to twist it and close with a slst to form a circle. ✗ Skipping the instruction to work into the back bump of chains can change row height and stitch count; always work into the back bump for Round 1 of the yoke as directed. ✗ Forgetting to leave the working loop at the end of back short rows will make rejoining awkward; do not fasten off—pull up the working loop and leave the skein to rest so you can continue later. ✗ Counting stitches incorrectly across the yoke can misplace underarm sections; count the specified hdc's carefully and verify the skipped hdc's before joining the front short rows.

Aestas Top Pattern

Aestas means summer, and this top is a breezy, wearable crochet tank you will reach for again and again. The pattern features an openwork yoke, short-row shaping at the back and front, and a seamless top-down bodice for a flattering silhouette. Clear step-by-step instructions and photos guide you through stitch placement and underarm shaping so you can create a polished cotton summer staple.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Aestas Top Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Approx. 350 (375, 425, 475, 550) m worsted cotton yarn for sizes XS (S, M, L, XL)
  • 02
    Or 385 (410, 465, 520, 600) yards of worsted cotton yarn for sizes XS (S, M, L, XL)
  • 03
    Worsted cotton yarn in main color - quantity varies by size as above

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 5.0 mm (or hook needed to meet gauge)
  • 02
    Darning needle for weaving in ends
  • 03
    Scissors
  • 04
    Stitch markers (recommended)
  • 05
    Measuring tape
  • 06
    Pins and blocking tools for washing and blocking the finished garment

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Yoke :

Info :

The yoke is a circle of 5 rows openwork crochet. It is worked in closed rounds without turning. ch 102 (108, 114, 120, 126), close with a slst to form a circle (be careful not to twist the chain)

Round 1 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in each ch around, working into the back bump of the ch's, close with slst in first hdc (102 (108, 114, 120, 126) sts)

Round 2 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in first st, [ch5, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch5: ch2 and dc in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 3 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 2ch + dc), [ch 6, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, except for the last repeat: instead of ch6: ch3 and tr in first sc to close the round. (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 4 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), sc in the ch-sp you just made (that actually consists of 3ch + tr), [ch 3, sc in next ch-sp] repeat around, close with slst in first sc (34 (36, 38, 40, 42) ch-sp's)

Round 5 :

ch1 (does not count as a st), hdc in first sc, [3 hdc in next ch-sp, hdc in next sc] repeat around, close with a slst in first hdc (136 (144, 152, 160, 168) hdc's)

— Back Short Rows :

Info :

First, we are going to crochet 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) rows back and forth at the back.

Back Short Row 1 :

(RSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the back loop of the next 36 (41, 44, 50, 54) sts, work one more dc into both loops of next st, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 2 :

(WSF) ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across, turn. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Back Short Row 3-8 :

as row 2. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc)

Info :

Sizes M, L, XL only: Back Short Row 9-10: as row 2. (x (x, 46, 52, 56) dc). At the end of the last back short row, don't fasten off but just pull up the working loop so your work doesn't start to unravel and leave that skein to rest for a bit - we'll continue where we left off later.

— Front Short Rows :

Info :

We are going to work a few short rows at the front of the top as well. Grab a new skein of yarn and lay the yoke flat, as a circle in front of you, right side up. Now, look for the last dc of the first back short row (circled in the photo) and count 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) yoke hdc's from there. Skip these sts and join the yarn to the 34th (33rd, 34th, 32nd, 32nd) hdc of the yoke. (In other words, there should be 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) skipped hdc's between the end of the first back short row and the beginning of the first front short row.)

Front Short Row 1 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in the same st (increase made), dc in the back loop of each of the next 30 (35, 38, 44, 48) hdc's, 2 dc in next st (increase made), turn. (34 (39, 42, 48, 52) dc's)

Front Short Row 2 :

Ch3 (counts as 1st dc), dc in same st, dc in each dc up to the last st: 2 dc in the last st (i.e. the beginning ch3 of last row), turn. (36 (41, 44, 50, 54) dc's)

Front Short Row 3 :

as previous row. (38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's)

Info :

Fasten off and put your hook back into the 'resting' loop where you left off after the back short rows. Now onto the bodice...

— Bodice :

Info :

Now we'll be working in closed rounds again, without turning. Rounds 3 and 5 are a little more complex, so photos are included to help.

Bodice Round 1 :

(creating armholes and joining with the front) RSF. Now you should be at the end of the last back short row. Turn (the last time you turn in this pattern!), ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each of the dc's across the back, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for right underarm, dc in next 38 (43, 46, 52, 56) dc's across the front, ch 13 (13, 16, 16, 19) for left underarm, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 2 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc and sc in each ch around, slst in first dc to close round. Do not turn. (102 (112, 124, 136, 150) sts)

Bodice Round 3 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, until the first sc of the underarm section: [ch2, 2trtog into the 1st and 4th sc, ch2, 2trtog into the 4th and 7th sc and so on (7th and 10th, 10th and 13th etc.) until you have made 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) 2trtog's; the last 2trtog should have its second 'leg' in the final sc of the underarm section, ch2], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) 2trtog's)

Bodice Round 4 :

ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each dc across the back, at underarm section: [2 sc in first ch-sp, 3 sc in each of the next 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) ch-sp's, 2 sc in the final ch-sp of underarm section (do not work into the 2trtog's)], dc in each dc across the front, repeat from [ to ] at the left underarm section, slst in first dc to close round. (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Bodice Round 5 :

as round 3, except underarm sections: [skip 2 sc's, tr in the 3rd sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 3rd and 6th sc, ch 2, 2trtog into the 6th and 9th sc, ch 2, and so on until only 1 sc remains of the underarm section: tr into the 2nd to last sc, skip the last sc] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) 2trtog's + 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) tr)

Bodice Round 6 :

as round 4, except underarm sections: [3 sc in each ch-sp, 4 sc in the last ch-sp, skip the 2trtog's] (76 (86, 92, 104, 112) dc's + 26 (26, 32, 32, 38) sc's)

Info :

Repeat rounds 3-6 until the top measures approx. 28 (30, 30, 32, 35) cm or 11 (12, 12, 13, 14) inches from underarm, ending with a round 4 or 6. Or work to your desired length.

— Optional waist shaping :

Info :

You may add waist shaping if you prefer the top slightly fitted at the waist. This is done by decreasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 10-15 of the bodice – or just below the bust – (total 12 sts decreased) and then increasing 2 sts per round, at approximately rounds 22-25 – at the hips – (total 8 sts increased). The pattern gives the following placement for shaping rounds as an example.

Bodice Rounds 10, 12, 14 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the beginning of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 11, 13, 15 :

work one decrease (dc2tog) at the end of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 22, 24 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the first st of both back and front dc panels

Bodice Rounds 23, 25 :

work one increase (i.e. one extra dc) into the last st of both back and front dc panels

Info :

Fasten off, wash and block – blocking really makes a difference to cotton garments!

Info :

TAH-DAHH! FINISHED. Share and tag @hooked_by_anna #AestasTop on Instagram or create a project page on Ravelry.

Assembly Instructions

  • At the end of the last back short row, do not fasten off; pull up the working loop and leave the skein to rest so you can continue when you start the front short rows.
  • Join a new skein for the front short rows by counting 33 (32, 33, 31, 31) yoke hdc's from the last back short row and join to the 34th (33rd, 34th, 32nd, 32nd) hdc to begin the front short rows.
  • After finishing the front short rows, fasten off and put your hook back into the 'resting' loop from the back short rows before beginning the bodice rounds.
  • When the bodice is complete, fasten off, wash and block the top; blocking evens stitch tension and improves the drape of cotton garments.

Important Notes

  • 💡Be careful not to twist the foundation chain when joining the yoke; join with a slip stitch and verify the circle sits flat.
  • 💡Work Round 1 of the yoke into the back bump of the chains as instructed to achieve the correct row height and neat edge.
  • 💡Do not fasten off at the end of the back short rows; keep the resting loop so you can reinsert your hook and continue the bodice smoothly.
  • 💡When working closed rounds on the bodice, do not turn—maintain RSF throughout the rounds for consistent shaping.

This airy Aestas Top pattern is perfect for sunny days and relaxed summer style. 🧶 The openwork yoke and seamless top-down bodice make it a joy to crochet and easy to customise. 🏖️ Block the finished top for a professional finish and enjoy wearing your handmade summer staple. ✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The pattern includes sizes XS (S, M, L, XL) and is designed to fit bust measurements of 78 (86, 95, 105, 115) cm or 31 (34, 37, 41, 45) inches.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, but changing yarn weight will change the finished size and drape; if you use a different yarn weight, make a gauge swatch and adjust hook size to match the gauge of 14 dc x 8 rows = 10x10 cm.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate and requires comfort with basic stitches and working in rounds, short rows, and some 2trtog/dc2tog decreases.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though time may vary based on experience level, yarn choice, and whether you add optional waist shaping.

How should I finish the garment after crocheting?

Fasten off the yarn, weave in ends with a darning needle, then wash and block the top to even tension and improve fit — blocking makes a big difference with cotton yarns.