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Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern

Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern
4.7β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern creates a charming Tooth Fairy amigurumi with a heart-shaped tooth body, tiny legs and arms, pretty ruffled skirt, layered wings and leaf-flower embellishments. It uses organic cotton yarn and includes photo references to guide your assembly. You will work mostly in continuous rounds and finish with simple sewing and embroidery.

Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Includes full stitch-by-stitch rounds for every piece and helpful construction notes for joining and finishing. Perfect for using up yarn scraps to create a colourful, heirloom-style toy.

Why You'll Love This Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines classic amigurumi shaping with pretty decorative elements like ruffled skirts and layered leaf flowers that make each piece feel special. I enjoy how the simple shape of the tooth transforms into a whimsical character with wings and a crossbody pouch. The pattern encourages using leftover yarn and organic cotton, which I love for sustainability. It is satisfying to assemble and the photo steps make the finishing easy and enjoyable.

Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this Tooth Fairy by swapping yarn colors β€” try pastels for a baby-themed version or jewel tones for a more dramatic look.

To change the size, I often switch my yarn weight and hook size; a bulkier yarn and larger hook creates a chunky version while thinner yarn makes a mini keepsake.

I sometimes add wire to the wings to make them poseable; just thread a thin craft wire through the wing layers before closing and bend gently as desired.

Swap the skirt for a tiny dress or add little crochet buttons to the waistband for a vintage look β€” I love adding small accessories to tell a story with each doll.

For eyes you can use safety eyes for durability, or embroider eyes for a fully handmade, machine-washable toy.

Try embroidering different expressions by moving the eyes or changing the eyelash stitch to give each fairy a distinct personality.

I also like to swap the leaf flower for different hair accessories, like a tiny crown or a crochet bow, to match seasons or holidays.

Make a set of fairies in coordinating colors so they can be a family collection or a lovely gift set for a special child.

Use scraps of cotton yarn to piece together a multicolor skirt β€” it’s a fun way to use leftovers and make each toy unique.

For a play-safe version, skip the safety eyes and embroider all features, and use securely sewn-on accessories that withstand washing and play.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers when closing gaps can cause you to miscount the stitches; place markers to mark the stitch positions before you close the gap and check counts before stitching. βœ— Understuffing the tooth body leads to a floppy shape and weak structure; stuff firmly and evenly as you work, adding small amounts gradually to maintain the heart shape. βœ— Switching colors without securing tails can create loose bits that pull out later; when changing yarns, weave in or tie off ends carefully and bury tails inside the work. βœ— Crocheting too loosely for amigurumi creates visible gaps and stuffing show-through; use a hook one size smaller than recommended if your tension is loose and maintain consistent tension throughout.

Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern

Create a whimsical Tooth Fairy amigurumi with this detailed crochet pattern. You will make a heart-shaped tooth body, ruffled skirt, wings, leaves, and a tiny crossbody satchel for a delightful finished toy. The pattern includes clear photos, stitch counts, and assembly tips so you can follow along with confidence. Perfect for gifting or keeping as a charming nursery decoration.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Tooth Fairy Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    RICO ESSENTIALS ORGANIC COTTON ARAN - 100% Organic Cotton | Weight: 4/Aran | WHITE x2 balls (tooth)
  • 02
    RICO ESSENTIALS ORGANIC COTTON DK - 100% Organic Cotton | Weight: 3/DK | NOUGAT (cross body pouch), LILAC (gloves & skirt waistband), MUSTARD (wings & skirt hem), RED (small leaves)
  • 03
    STYLECRAFT NATURALS ORGANIC COTTON DK - 100% Organic Cotton | Weight: 3/DK | ARTICHOKE (wings, skirt & leaves)
  • 04
    Assorted leftover DK weight cotton yarns for leaves and flower details (approx small scraps each color)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 4.00 mm
  • 02
    Crochet hook size 3.00 mm
  • 03
    Safety eyes 12 mm (2 pieces)
  • 04
    Black embroidery thread or black DK yarn split in half (about 4 strands) for eyelashes
  • 05
    Tapestry needle
  • 06
    Stitch markers
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Polyester stuffing
  • 09
    Optional: wooden buttons for crossbody bag tie

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Tooth :

Info :

NOTES: The tooth is worked in continuous rounds from the top down - do not join after each round. You will make two "cups" which will be joined to create the top bumps. Then, you will crochet around them and continuously until you split for the roots which are also crocheted in continuous rounds. Use size 4.00mm hook for the tooth.

Section :

CUPS - make 2

Rnd 1 :

st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2 :

inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3 :

(sc, inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4 :

(sc 2, inc) x6 [24]

Rnd 5 :

(sc 3, inc) x6 [30]

Rnd 6 :

(sc 4, inc) x6 [36]

Rnd 7 :

(sc 5, inc) x6 [42]

Rnd 8 :

(sc 6, inc) x6 [48] PHOTO 01

Rnd 9-13 :

sc around [48] PHOTO 02

Info :

Fasten off the first cup. Do not fasten off the second one as you will continue with your working yarn to join the cups and continue on with the rest of the tooth.

Info :

JOIN CUPS: Hold the two cups side by side and join by making 6 slip stitches through Rnd 13 of both pieces to join PHOTO 03 & 04. Begin straight away where you left off with your last sl st...

Rnd 14-22 :

sc around [84]

Rnd 23 :

(sc 12, dec) x6 [78]

Rnd 24 :

sc around [78]

Rnd 25 :

(sc 11, dec) x6 [72]

Rnd 26-27 :

sc around [72]

Rnd 28 :

(sc 10, dec) x6 [66]

Rnd 29-30 :

sc around [66]

Rnd 31 :

(sc 9, dec) x6 [60]

Rnd 32-34 :

sc around [60] PHOTO 05

Info :

Insert safety eyes between rounds 24 and 25, spaced by 20 stitches. Using a tapestry needle, embroider on eyelashes. Stuff tooth. PHOTO 06

β€” Roots :

Info :

NOTES: The roots are worked in continuous rounds - do not join after each round. Split your work for the roots: Each root will have 24 st, and then there will be 12 stitches (6 from front and 6 from back) that will be crocheted closed for the gap between the roots. Use stitch markers to mark these stitches as described. PHOTO 07

Info :

Give or take a few stitches to be sure your hook is positioned in the stitch just before what's about to become the gap between the roots. Hold the two sides of the tooth closed - 6 stitches against 6 stitches and slip stitch the two sides together (12 stitches - 6 from front and 6 from back) PHOTO 08. Then continue straight away into round 35 without fastening.

Rnd 35-46 :

sc in each st around [24] STUFF

Info :

TIPS: A) I suggest placing a stitch marker on your first st of Rnd 35 so you can easily find it as you come back around. PHOTO 09. B) the start of rnd 36 will connect the front to the back, closing the rounds for the first root.

Rnd 47 :

(sc 2, dec) x6 [18]

Rnd 48-49 :

sc around [18]

Rnd 50 :

(sc, dec) x6 [12]

Rnd 51-52 :

sc around [12] STUFF / PHOTO 10 & 11

Rnd 53 :

dec around [6]

Info :

Snip leaving a long tail and pull through final two loops. Using a tapestry needle and the yarn tail, weave through the front loops of the final 6 stitches and pull tightly to close. Bring to the inside and back out a side wall. Snip cleanly with the surface. PHOTO 12

Info :

Rejoin yarn on the other side of the 6-slip-stitch-gap, and repeat Rounds 35-53 for second root. Fasten off and close as directed for first root above. PHOTO 13

β€” Skirt :

Info :

NOTES: The skirt is worked in continuous rounds - do not join after each round. Use size 3.00mm hook for the skirt. Start with the purple yarn.

Rnd 1 :

fsc 70 [70] PHOTO 14

Rnd 2 :

sc around [70]

Info :

Switch to green yarn.

Rnd 3 :

make 3 dc in each st around [210] PHOTO 15

Rnd 4 :

dc around [210] PHOTO 16

Info :

Switch to gold yarn.

Rnd 5 :

sc around [210] PHOTO 17

Info :

Fasten off and weave in end. Put skirt on tooth. Using a tapestry needle and a VERY long strand of purple yarn, weave the tapestry needle from front to back in between the first row (purple) of the skirt, several times to secure the skirt to the tooth. PHOTO 18

β€” Crossbody Satchel :

Use the brown yarn & 3.00mm hook

Rnd 1 :

st 6 hdc in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2 :

hdc inc around [12]

Rnd 3 :

(hdc, hdc inc) x6 [18]

Rnd 4-7 :

hdc around [18]

Rnd 8 :

dc around [18] PHOTO 19

Info :

Fasten off and weave in end. Make drawstring: chain 150. Knot off ends. Weave in and out of round 8 (dc round) and cinch to close. If you're using beads for the ends of the drawstring, put those on now. PHOTO 20

β€” Arms :

- make 2

Info :

NOTES: The arms are worked in continuous rounds - do not join after each round. Use size 3.00mm crochet hook. You will start with the purple yarn for the gloves and switch to the tooth color to complete the arms.

Rnd 1 :

st 6 in a magic circle [6]

Rnd 2 :

inc in each st around [12]

Rnd 3-5 :

sc around [12]

Rnd 6 :

4-DcBo in next st, sc in next 11 st [12]

Rnd 7-14 :

sc around [12]

Rnd 15 :

sl st around [12]

Info :

Refer to PHOTOS 21-25 to complete the glove and color change as follows: Remove your hook from the loop and insert it under the next st from back to front. Snatch your loop and pull it to the back, then switch to white by yarning over with white and pulling it through the purple loop.

Info :

Pull on the ends to tighten. After you make a few stitches of Rnd 16, tie those purple and white ends together and stuff them inside. For round 16, you will work in the BLO of the purple from Rnd 14, found just behind the Rnd 15 of slip stitches.

Rnd 16 :

BLO sc around [12] PHOTO 26

Rnd 17-23 :

sc around [12]

Info :

Sl st to fasten off and pull through loop, leaving a long tail for sewing on. Stuff very lightly and sew arms to sides of body over round 25, spaced about 7 stitches away from the eye. PHOTOS 27-29

β€” Wings: Large - make 2 :

NOTES: The wings are made by crocheting turning rows of half double crochet in the BACK LOOP ONLY. You will work into a magic circle - do not close the magic circle until all the rows are complete as you will need to be making slip stitches into the magic circle (see photos 30-34 for reference). Chain 1 and turn at the end of every row. Use the gold yarn.

Info :

Leaving a long starting tail, begin by making a magic circle and slip knot onto your hook - do not close the magic circle. PHOTO 30 Then, chain 23.

Row 1 :

hdc in the 2nd back bump ch from hk and in each back bump ch thereafter [22] PHOTO 31

Row 2 :

BLO hdc across, sl st into the magic circle, ch 1, turn [22] PHOTO 32

Row 3 :

BLO hdc in next 19 st, leave final 3 st unworked [19]

Row 4 :

repeat row 2 [19]

Row 5 :

BLO hdc in next 16 st, leave final 3 st unworked [16]

Row 6 :

repeat row 2 [16]

Row 7 :

BLO hdc in next 13 st, leave final 3 st unworked [13]

Row 8 :

repeat row 2 [13]

Row 9 :

BLO hdc in next 10 st, leave final 3 st unworked [10] PHOTO 33

Info :

Fasten off and weave in end. Pull magic circle tightly to close and cinch the wing. PHOTO 34

β€” Wings: Small - make 2 :

NOTES: Refer to the notes and photos for "wings: large" as the small wings are made using the same method, just using shorter rows. Use the light green yarn.

Info :

Leaving a long starting tail, begin by making a magic circle and slip knot onto your hook - do not close the magic circle. Then, chain 20.

Row 1 :

hdc in 2nd back bump ch from hk and in each back bump ch thereafter [19]

Row 2 :

BLO hdc across, sl st into the magic circle, ch 1, turn [19]

Row 3 :

BLO hdc in next 16 st, leave final 3 st unworked [16]

Row 4 :

repeat row 2 [16]

Row 5 :

BLO hdc in next 13 st, leave final 3 st unworked [13]

Row 6 :

repeat row 2 [13]

Row 7 :

BLO hdc in next 10 st, leave final 3 st unworked [10]

Info :

Fasten off and weave in end. Pull magic circle tightly to close.

β€” Assemble and Attach the Wings :

Assemble Wings :

1. Arrange the wings with the large on top and the small beneath - PHOTO 35. 2. Lay the small wings over top the large wings so that they have one row overlapping and are angled as shown in the photo - PHOTO 36 & 37. 3. Using the tail end of the small wing, sew the wings together (the stitches that show will be covered over with a leaf) - PHOTO 38. 4. Sew wings to the back of the tooth over rounds 10-15 using the photos as a guide for placement PHOTO 39.

β€” Leaves :

NOTES: The leaves are worked by making a chain and crocheting around both sides of it. You will make 10 leaves - 5 large and 3 small will be used for the leaf flower and 2 will be used as part of the wings on the back - to cover over the stitches that show when sewing the wings together.

Section :

LARGE LEAVES - make 7 in your choice of color. Begin by chaining 12.

Row 1 :

sc in 2nd ch from hk, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in next 3 ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch. PHOTO 40 Continue onto the other side of the chain, and repeat the pattern for the 2nd side of the leaf. PHOTO 41

Info :

Sl st to next st and fasten off. Leave a long tail on ONE of the leaves for sewing them all together. On the other leaves, weave in ends.

Section :

SMALL LEAVES - make 3, using the red yarn. Begin by chaining 8.

Row 1 :

sc in 2nd ch from hk, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch. Continue onto the other side of the chain, and repeat the pattern for the 2nd side of the leaf.

Info :

Sl st to next st and fasten off. Leave a long tail on ONE of the leaves for sewing them to the leaf flower. On the other leaves, weave in ends.

β€” Leaf Flower Assembly :

Step 1 :

Arrange 5 of the large leaves in a flower formation - PHOTO 42.

Step 2 :

Using the long tail from one of the leaves, sew them together - PHOTOS 43 & 44.

Step 3 :

Arrange the 3 small leaves on top of the large flower and sew them on - PHOTO 45.

Step 4 :

Sew the leaf flower onto the tooth at round 16, centered on the tooth "cup" - PHOTO 46.

Step 5 :

Sew the additional 2 large flowers over the middle of the wings on the back to cover any stitches showing on the wings - PHOTO 47.

β€” Finishing :

Info :

Weave in any remaining tails, secure safety eyes, embroider eyelashes with black embroidery thread or split DK yarn, and place accessories such as crossbody satchel and skirt. Position arms and legs, sew securely, and arrange leaves and wings as photographed for final presentation.

Assembly Instructions

  • Insert safety eyes between rounds 24 and 25, spaced by 20 stitches, then embroider eyelashes using tapestry needle and black thread as shown in the photos.
  • Sew arms to sides of the body over round 25, spacing them about 7 stitches away from the eye, and stuff arms lightly before closing.
  • Sew wings to the back of the tooth over rounds 10-15, stacking large wings on top of small wings and securing with the tail ends; cover visible stitches with leaf pieces.
  • Secure the skirt by weaving a long strand of purple yarn from front to back through the first purple row of the skirt several times to anchor it to the tooth.
  • Sew the leaf flower onto the tooth at round 16 centered on the tooth cup and sew two extra large leaves over the middle of the wings to hide joins.
  • Attach the crossbody satchel by placing it across the tooth and tucking/tying the drawstring ends as shown; weave ends in and trim neatly.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers to keep track of your rounds, especially when splitting the tooth for the roots and when joining the two cups.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff firmly but not overly tight to maintain shape and prevent the stitches from stretching open; add stuffing gradually while shaping.
  • πŸ’‘Work with consistent tension and consider using a hook one size smaller for the body to avoid gaps where stuffing could show through.
  • πŸ’‘Weave in ends and secure color changes carefully to prevent loose tails from showing or coming undone during play.

This tooth fairy amigurumi pattern brings a whimsical, handmade friend to life with sweet details and sustainable yarn choices. Whether you make it as a special keepsake or a magical gift, it will brighten any nursery or gift bag. Happy crocheting and enjoy every stitch! 🧢✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished Tooth Fairy measures approximately 10" x 11" wide when using the recommended yarn and hook sizes.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but this will change the final size; adjust your hook accordingly and expect changes to stitch counts and proportions.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate, so basic knowledge of continuous rounds, color changes, BLO/FLO techniques, and reading stitch shorthand is recommended.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 5-7 hours, though the time may vary depending on experience, speed, and how much detail you add.