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Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern
4.5★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
1.2K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern makes a large, stuffed Snorlax-style amigurumi using Bernat Blanket yarn. It features a rounded body, oval belly patch, rounded ears, arms that switch to rows, and separate feet with pads and claws. The pattern uses continuous rounds and some shaping in rows for the belly/arms to achieve the right silhouette.

Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Perfect if you want a big, huggable plush with clear step-by-step rounds and assembly notes. Detailed placement and sewing tips are included so your final piece looks neat and professional.

Why You'll Love This Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it turns bulky Bernat Blanket yarn into a soft, squishy giant that is so satisfying to stuff and assemble. I enjoy the combination of round shaping and short row work for the belly and arms — it gives the Snorlax a charming, plump silhouette. Sewing the belly patch and working around the posts makes the finished piece look neat and handmade. The pattern is rewarding; you can see real progress quickly and the finished size is impressive and cuddly.

Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love customizing this pattern by changing yarn colors to make different characters or softer palettes; try pastels for a gentle nursery toy or bright colors for a playful twist.

I often adjust the size by swapping yarn weight and hook size: bulky yarn with a larger hook gives you a giant cuddly version, while worsted weight and a smaller hook makes a compact, shelf-friendly Snorlax.

I sometimes embellish the belly patch with embroidery, adding freckles or a small heart to personalize each piece.

For a more poseable toy, I have experimented with adding wire inside the arms so they can be bent slightly for holding props or arranging poses.

I like making an outfit set — a tiny crocheted hat, scarf, or even a removable cape — to give the plush more personality and changeability.

Try sewing felt details instead of crocheted teeth for a crisp look, or embroidering the mouth with a thicker yarn for a bold expression.

If you prefer less stuffing, reduce the amount slightly for a softer, more slouchy look, but maintain enough stuffing for the body to hold shape.

I sometimes attach a weight (like a small pellet bag) at the base of the body to help it sit upright sturdier, especially for display pieces.

Experiment with different claw styles — larger rounded claws or smaller pointed ones — to change the overall character of the feet and hands.

Don't be afraid to mix yarn types for texture: a smoother worsted for the belly patch and a plush blanket yarn for the body can create a striking contrast I really enjoy.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when changing from rounds to rows will cause misalignment; place markers at the switch points and count stitches before turning to ensure the top and bottom line up properly. ✗ Understuffing the body results in a floppy shape that will not hold its structure; add lots of stuffing gradually and shape as you go, especially in the body which requires a lot. ✗ Sewing the belly patch in the wrong position will look off; pin the patch carefully so the bottom sits between rounds 15 & 16 of the body and the top between rounds 8 & 9 of the head before sewing. ✗ Ignoring the instruction to work around the posts while sewing gives a messy edge; sew around the posts of the stitches on the border for a much neater result and take your time with each stitch. ✗ Not aligning the arm stitches when attaching can make arms twist or sit awkwardly; line up the top six stitches of the arm with the last round of the body and the bottom six with rounds 28 & 29 before pinning and sewing.

Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

Make your very own giant Snorlax plush using Bernat Blanket yarn and a simple, clear pattern. This pattern guides you through creating a large, cuddly Snorlax with detailed shaping, sewn-on belly patch, claws and foot pads. You will enjoy sewing and stuffing as the character comes to life — perfect for a special gift or a cozy room companion. The instructions are written step-by-step so you can follow along easily.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Snorlax Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Bernat Blanket yarn 'Lagoon' (regular) - 3 large skeins
  • 02
    Bernat Blanket yarn 'Lapis' (shiny) - 3 large skeins (alternate)
  • 03
    Bernat Blanket yarn 'Birch' - 1 skein (for belly/feet)
  • 04
    Bernat Blanket yarn 'Taupe' - less than one skein (foot pads, optional sub for brown felt)
  • 05
    Bernat Blanket yarn 'White' - small skein (claws, details)
  • 06
    Optional: small amount Bernat Blanket yarn 'Black' for eyes & mouth

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook size 7mm (or whatever size makes stitches tight enough to stop stuffing from popping through)
  • 02
    Stitch marker
  • 03
    Sewing needle
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Fabric glue
  • 06
    Pins (T-pins recommended)
  • 07
    Polyester stuffing (approx 5 lbs - he's big)
  • 08
    Small piece white felt for teeth

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Info :

Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join rounds. Made in "Lagoon" or "Lapis"

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Increase in each stitch (12)

Round 3 :

(sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

sc in each stitch (54)

Round 11 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (60)

Round 12 :

sc in each stitch (60)

Round 13 :

(14 sc, inc) x 4 (64)

Round 14-18 :

sc in each stitch (64)

Round 19 :

(14 sc, dec) x 4 (60)

Round 20 :

sc in each stitch (60)

Round 21 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 4 sc (54)

Round 22 :

sc in each stitch (54)

Round 23 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Info :

Fasten off. Add stuffing to the head. The increases from round 13 should make the head slightly oval-shaped.

— Body :

Info :

Worked in an oval shape. Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in "Lagoon" or "Lapis"

Round 1 :

Chain 18. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 15 sc, make 3 sc in the last chain. Turn so you are working on the opposite side of the foundation chain. 16 sc. (36)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, 15 sc, inc, inc, inc, 15 sc, inc (42)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, sc, inc, 16 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 16 sc, inc (48)

Round 4 :

2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 17 sc, inc (54)

Round 5 :

3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc (60)

Round 6 :

4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 19 sc, inc (66)

Round 7 :

5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 20 sc, inc (72)

Round 8 :

4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 7, 4 sc (80)

Round 9 :

(9 sc, inc) x 8 (88)

Round 10 :

5 sc, inc, (10 sc, inc) x 7, 5 sc (96)

Round 11 :

sc in each stitch (96)

Round 12 :

(11 sc, inc) x 8 (104)

Round 13 :

sc in each stitch (104)

Round 14 :

6 sc, inc, (12 sc, inc) x 7, 6 sc (112)

Round 15-24 :

sc in each stitch (112)

Round 25 :

6 sc, dec, (12 sc, dec) x 7, 6 sc (104)

Round 26-29 :

sc in each stitch (104)

Round 30 :

(11 sc, dec) x 8 (96)

Round 31 :

sc in each stitch (96)

Round 32 :

5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) x 7, 5 sc (88)

Round 33 :

sc in each stitch (88)

Round 34 :

(9 sc, dec) x 8 (80)

Round 35 :

4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 7, 4 sc (72)

Round 36 :

sc in each stitch (72)

Round 37 :

(7 sc, dec) x 8 (64)

Round 38 :

sc in each stitch (64)

Round 39 :

3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 7, 3 sc (56)

Round 40 :

sc in each stitch (56)

Round 41 :

(5 sc, dec) x 8 (48)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a very long tail to sew the body to the head. Add a LOT of stuffing to the body.

— Ears :

Info :

Make two ears. Made in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in "Lagoon" or "Lapis"

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

(sc, inc) x 3 (9)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (12)

Round 4 :

sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (16)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 4 (20)

Round 6 :

2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (24)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the head.

— Arms :

Info :

Make two arms. Made in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in "Lagoon" or "Lapis"

Round 1 :

Make 6 sc in a magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

increase in each stitch (12)

Round 3 :

inc, inc, 3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc, inc (18)

Round 4 :

sc in each stitch (18)

Round 5 :

4 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 4 sc (20)

Round 6 :

9 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc (22)

Round 7-11 :

sc in each stitch (22)

Round 12 :

sc in each stitch, then chain one & turn to start working in rows (22)

Info :

Working in rows instead of rounds. Make sure you have already chained & turned!

Round 13 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Round 14 :

dec, 12 sc, dec, chain one & turn (14)

Round 15 :

14 sc, chain one & turn (14)

Round 16 :

dec, 10 sc, dec, chain one & turn (12)

Round 17 :

12 sc, chain one & turn (12)

Round 18 :

dec, 8 sc, dec, chain one & turn (10)

Round 19 :

10 sc, chain one & turn (10)

Round 20 :

dec, 6 sc, dec, chain one & turn (8)

Round 21 :

8 sc, chain one & turn (8)

Round 22 :

dec, 4 sc, dec, chain one & turn (6)

Round 23 :

6 sc (6)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the sides of the body. Add stuffing to the bottom of the arm (the part that's in rows will be stuffed when the arm is sewed to the body).

— Feet :

Info :

Make two feet. Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in "Birch"

Round 1 :

Chain 6. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 3 sc, make 3 sc in the last chain. Turn so you are working on the opposite side of the foundation chain. 4 sc. (12)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, 3 sc, inc, inc, inc, 3 sc, inc (18)

Round 3 :

sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, 4 sc, inc (24)

Round 4 :

2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc (30)

Round 5 :

3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc (36)

Round 6 :

3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, sc (42) - please note the beginning of this round does NOT have an error in it. My rounds shifted a bit (the first increase wasn't centered with the chain) - it should be "4 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc" BUT instead, one of the first four single crochet stitches is at the end of the round. Ezpz.

Round 7-8 :

sc in each stitch (42)

Round 9 :

4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 7 sc, dec (36) again, rounds shifted a bit, so instead of doing the 3 sc and then having the fourth sc at the END of the round, just do 4 sc at the beginning. Feel free to ignore these explanations & just follow the pattern - they're only written for the folks who are nit-picky about patterns ;)

Round 10 :

3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec (30)

Round 11 :

2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec (24)

Round 12 :

2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (20)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew each of the feet to the body. Add stuffing to the feet.

— Foot pads :

Info :

Make two foot pads. Worked in joined rounds - slip stitch & chain one at the end of each round. Made in "Taupe"

Round 1 :

Make 8 hdc in a magic ring, slip stitch to the first stitch & chain one (8)

Round 2 :

Make a half double crochet increase in the same stitch as the slip stitch. Half double crochet increase in each of the next 7 stitches. Slip stitch to the first stitch (16)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the foot.

— Belly Patch :

Info :

Worked in rows. Made in "Birch"

Row 1 :

Chain 13. Starting in the second chain from the hook: inc, 10 sc, inc, chain one & turn (14)

Row 2 :

inc, 12 sc, inc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 3 :

inc, 14 sc, inc, chain one & turn (18)

Row 4 :

inc, 16 sc, inc, chain one & turn (20)

Row 5 :

inc, 18 sc, inc, chain one & turn (22)

Row 6 :

inc, 20 sc, inc, chain one & turn (24)

Row 7-18 :

24 sc, chain one & turn (24)

Row 19 :

dec, 20 sc, dec, chain one & turn (22)

Row 20 :

22 sc, chain one & turn (22)

Row 21 :

dec, 18 sc, dec, chain one & turn (20)

Row 22 :

20 sc, chain one & turn (20)

Row 23 :

dec, 16 sc, dec, chain one & turn (18)

Row 24 :

dec, 14 sc, dec, chain one & turn (16)

Row 25 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 26 :

dec, 12 sc, dec, chain one & turn (14)

Row 27 :

dec, 10 sc, dec, chain one & turn (12)

Row 28 :

12 sc, chain one & turn (12)

Row 29 :

inc, 10 sc, inc, chain one & turn (14)

Row 30 :

inc, 12 sc, inc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 31-37 :

16 sc, chain one & turn (16)

Row 38 :

dec, 4 sc, dec. Place marker in the next stitch (the ninth stitch from row 37). Chain one & turn (6)

Row 39 :

6 sc, chain one & turn (6)

Row 40 :

dec, 2 sc, dec, chain one & turn (4)

Row 41 :

dec, dec, chain one & turn (2)

Row 42 :

dec (1)

Info :

Fasten off. Attach yarn in the stitch that was marked in row 37, when making row 38 & continue:

Row 43 :

dec, 4 sc, dec, chain one & turn 6 (6)

Row 44 :

6 sc, chain one & turn (6)

Row 45 :

dec, 2 sc, dec, chain one & turn (4)

Row 46 :

dec, dec, chain one & turn (2)

Row 47 :

dec (1)

Info :

Fasten off. Flip the belly patch over so that the right side of the piece is facing. Attach a new piece of yarn to the bottom left corner & sc a border around. Make 3 sc in row 42. Make 4 sc down the sides of the rows of the top piece. Dec over the next two stitches. Make 4 sc up the other side of the rows (on the second top piece) & make 3 sc in row 47. Then continue on down the other side of the piece.

Info :

Make sure that you have an even number of stitches on both of the long sides of the piece. When finished crocheting the border, fasten off & leave a very long tail to sew the belly patch to the body.

— Claws (hands) :

Info :

Make 10 claws (yeah, it's a pain). Made in "White"

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring with 3 sc. Slip stitch to the first stitch (3)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the hands.

Info :

IF you are finding it difficult to make a magic ring with 3 sc: 1. Chain 2. Make 3 sc in the second chain from the hook. Slip stitch to the first stitch (3). Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew to the hands.

— Claws (feet) :

Info :

Make 6 claws. Worked in continuous rounds - do not slip stitch/chain one to join. Made in "White"

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring with 3 sc (3)

Round 2 :

inc, inc, inc (6)

Round 3 :

sc in each stitch (6)

Info :

Fasten off, leaving a tail to sew the claws to the feet.

— Assembly :

Info :

Stuff the body & head firmly. It'll take a LOT of stuffing, but that's okay. He'll be nice & cuddly.

Instruction :

Using the tail left over on the body, sew the body to the head. Sew through the tops of the stitches on the body and around the POSTS of the stitches from the last round of the head. The head should be slightly oval shaped (the increases from round 13 of the head should be on the sides) & the body is definitely oval shaped - so be mindful of that when sewing the two pieces together.

Instruction :

Pin the belly patch to the body. The bottom of the patch should sit between rounds 15&16 of the body. The top of the belly patch should sit between rounds 8&9 of the head.

Instruction :

Rows 27 & 28 of the belly patch are the neck, the rows after that are all sewed to the head. Work around the posts of the stitches on the border when sewing - it will give you a waaay neater look than whip stitching it on.

Instruction :

Pin the ears to the head. They should sit between rounds 5&6, to between rounds 11&12 of the head. Before the ears are fully sewed on, add stuffing to them.

Instruction :

Pin the arms to the sides of the body. You will notice the arms have 6 stitches at the top (where they've been fasted off) AND 6 stitches at the bottoms of the arms (left over from when the arm switched from working in rounds to working in rows). These two sets of 6 stitches need to be lined up - the top six stitches will be pinned to the last round of the body (near the head), & the bottom six stitches will be pinned between rounds 28&29 of the body.

Instruction :

Start sewing the arms on - the sides of the rows on the arms should be sewed kind of in a straight line down the side of the body. When you’re close to finished sewing each of the arms on, add stuffing so that the row part of the arm isn’t flat. It should kind of blend in with the bottom part of the arm/hand.

Instruction :

Pin 5 claws to each of the hands & sew them to the hands. They don’t need stuffing - they’re way too small for it. They should end up fairly close to one another.

Instruction :

Sew a foot pad to each of the feet. They should sit between rounds 3&4 of the feet. Sew the feet to the body - they should be angled kind of outwards. The bottoms of the feet should sit between rounds 12&13 of the body. The tops of the feet should sit between rounds 19&20 of the body.

Instruction :

Next up, sew 3 of each of the foot claws to the feet. You can add a little bit of stuffing to them if you want, it's really up to you. They should sit between rounds 7&8 to between rounds 8&9 of the feet.

Instruction :

Using a piece of black yarn, embroider the eyes & mouth on the head part of the belly patch. You can VERY carefully use a tiny bit of fabric glue to make the eyes a bit rounder. Cut two little triangles out of white felt for the teeth. Glue the teeth near the mouth. The top parts of the little triangles should point upwards.

Info :

If you made it this far - congratulations, you’re finished! Hopefully your arms don’t hurt as much as mine did. A bunch of finished pictures are in the document for reference.

Assembly Instructions

  • Sew the body to the head using the long tail left on the body; sew through the tops of the stitches on the body and around the posts of the last round of the head for a secure join.
  • Pin the belly patch so the bottom sits between rounds 15 & 16 of the body and the top sits between rounds 8 & 9 of the head, then sew around the posts on the border for a neat finish.
  • Pin the arms so the top six stitches align with the last round of the body (near the head) and the bottom six align between rounds 28 & 29 of the body, then sew and stuff the row section before finishing.
  • Sew foot pads to the feet so they sit between rounds 3 & 4, then attach the feet angled outwards with bottoms between rounds 12 & 13 of the body and tops between rounds 19 & 20.
  • Pin and sew 5 claws to each hand and 3 claws to each foot in the positions described, using small tails to attach and avoiding stuffing the tiny claws.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to keep track of rounds and the spot where you switch from rounds to rows for the arms and belly patch.
  • 💡Stuff the body very firmly — this Snorlax requires a lot of stuffing to achieve the correct plump shape.
  • 💡Pin all parts (belly patch, ears, arms, feet) carefully before sewing so placements match the rounds specified for a balanced finish.
  • 💡When sewing the belly patch and other borders, sew around the posts of the stitches for a neater edge instead of whip-stitching directly through the fabric.

This giant Snorlax amigurumi pattern makes a huggable, decorative friend that is perfect for gifting or snuggling at home. The finished piece is large, plush, and full of character, with clear assembly notes to help you sew everything neatly. Enjoy the process and the cozy result — happy crocheting! 🧶😊

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

The finished amigurumi measures approximately 26 inches tall and about 18.5 inches from feet to back and 28 inches wide from arm to arm when made with Bernat Blanket yarn and a 7mm hook.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can use different yarn weights, but the final size and texture will change; use an appropriate hook size and expect the finished Snorlax to be smaller with worsted weight or larger with bulkier yarns.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This pattern is rated intermediate; basic crochet skills such as working in continuous rounds, increases and decreases, short rows, and sewing pieces together are recommended for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters complete this project in 12-15 hours spread over multiple sessions, depending on experience and how much time you spend on stuffing and assembly.