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Corfu Bag Pattern

Corfu Bag Pattern
4.6★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
4.2K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Multi-Day Project

A rewarding 12+ hour journey—perfect for dedicated crafters who love detailed work.

✨

Stylish Touch

An elegant detail to elevate any look, combining traditional techniques with contemporary design sensibilities.

About This Corfu Bag Pattern

This Corfu Bag pattern by Natalia Kononova creates a textured, structured crochet tote with embossed elements and fish motifs. You will work the bag in the round from the bottom up, switch yarns for embossed front-post stitches, and finish with reinforced upper edge backing and spiral cord handles. The pattern includes charts, photo tutorials and video links for key techniques.

Corfu Bag Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Designed for intermediate crocheters, the bag uses front and back post double crochet to form embossed motifs. Step-by-step photos and charts help you follow the complex stitch placement with confidence.

Why You'll Love This Corfu Bag Pattern

I absolutely love this pattern because it combines sculptural embossed stitches with a practical, everyday shape that you can actually use. The stitch textures feel luxurious to work and the finished bag holds its shape beautifully thanks to the upper edge backing and optional lining. I am passionate about the way color switching is used to highlight the fish and leaf motifs — switching yarns at the right moment makes the design pop. Creating the spiral cord handles is one of my favorite parts; they are sturdy, elegant, and add a handmade signature to the piece.

Corfu Bag Pattern step 1 - construction progress Corfu Bag Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Corfu Bag Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Corfu Bag Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize the Corfu Bag by changing colors — try a high-contrast palette for bold motifs, or tonal shades for a subtle embossed effect.

Want a smaller bag? Use finer yarn and a smaller hook; for a larger, chunkier tote, choose a bulkier yarn and larger hook and add more rounds to the bottom before starting the embossed sides.

I often swap the background and embossed colors to reverse the effect so the motifs appear lighter on a dark field — it completely changes the look without altering construction.

You can make the bag reversible by finishing the upper edge backing neatly and using a lightweight interfacing on both sides, but this requires careful sewing of the lining and seams.

Try adding a detachable lining with a zip pocket if you need more organization — sew snap buttons or loops inside to keep it secure but removable for washing.

If you prefer straps instead of spiral cords, crochet wider flat straps and reinforce them with interfacing or insert webbing for extra strength.

For a seasonal twist, switch to cotton in summer for a lightweight market bag or a wool blend for a cozy winter tote with a different feel.

Embellish with small crocheted flowers or a tassel at the drawstring for a personalized finish — these small details make great gifts.

I sometimes insert a narrow non-stretch tape inside the spiral handles to reduce stretch for heavy use; sew the tape ends securely so it stays in place.

Experiment with surface embroidery on the finished background to add metallic highlights or initials — it’s a great way to make the piece truly one-of-a-kind.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers during rounds will cause you to lose the beginning of round and misplace embossed motifs; place a marker at the start of every round and transfer it each round. ✗ Not switching yarns properly for front-post stitches can make the embossed elements messy; use the next color to finish the previous stitch and make the last yarn over with the new color as instructed. ✗ Failing to mark stitches for B3i placements leads to uneven embossed rows; mark the stitches specified in Rnd 26 and check placement before proceeding. ✗ Not reinforcing the upper edge will cause distortion when carrying weight; add the interfacing backing as instructed and baste it in place before finishing to keep the edge stable.

Corfu Bag Pattern

Make a stunning Corfu Bag using textured embossed crochet and front/back post stitches. This pattern guides you through the bottom, embossed sides, upper-edge backing and spiral cord handles so you can create a durable, stylish tote. Detailed charts, step-by-step photos and video references are included to help you every stitch of the way. Ideal for crafters who enjoy structured crochet and beautiful surface texture.

Intermediate 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Corfu Bag Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Scheepjes Catona (100% Mercerized Cotton, Fingering weight, 50g/125m/136.7yds) suggested
  • 02
    Yarn1 (background): Silver Blue - 4 skeins / 170g / 465yds
  • 03
    Yarn2 (embossed elements): Moon Rock - 7 skeins / 305g / 834yds
  • 04
    Or similar DK weight yarn with ratio 120-130 meters (131-142 yards) per 50 grams if substituting (measure quantities accordingly)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    Crochet hook 2.75mm
  • 02
    Tapestry needle
  • 03
    Hand-sewing needle
  • 04
    Sewing thread matching the background color
  • 05
    Interfacing for upper edge: piece of buckram or other stiff interfacing approximately 7cm x 80cm / 2 3/4" x 31 1/2"
  • 06
    Optional: Lining fabric approx. 40cm x 80cm / 15 3/4" x 31 1/2"
  • 07
    Drawstring for lining: cord approx. 50cm / 19 3/4" (can be crocheted with chain stitches)
  • 08
    Stitch markers
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Pins for assembly

Progress Tracker

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— Bag bottom :

Info :

Chart 1 on p.5. Note: In this section, the bag bottom is made entirely with front post stitches, so they are not highlighted.

Inc Rnd 1 :

with Yarn2 ch4, ss in 1st ch, ch2 (counts as dc), 8dc (make them as short as possible) in ch4-ring, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2. (9dc)

Inc Rnd 2 :

ch2 (doesn't count as st throughout bag bottom), F2i (in beg ch-2 from pr), 8F2i, sk ch-2 (throughout bag bottom), ss (in 1st F throughout bottom). (18F)

Inc Rnd 3 :

ch2, F2i (in 1st F from pr (ignore ch-2) throughout bottom), F, [F2i, F]x8, ss. (27sts)

Inc Rnd 4 :

ch2, [2F, F2i]x9, ss. (36sts)

Inc Rnd 5 :

ch2, [F2i, 3F]x9, ss. (45sts)

Inc Rnd 6 :

ch2, 2F, [F2i, 4F]x8, F2i, 2F, ss. (54 sts)

Inc Rnd 7 :

ch2, 4F, [F2i, 5F]x8, F2i, F, ss. (63sts)

Inc Rnd 8 :

ch2, [6F, F2i]x9, ss. (72sts)

Inc Rnd 9 :

ch2, [F2i, 7F]x9, ss. (81sts)

Inc Rnd 10 :

ch2, 2F, [F2i, 8F]x8, F2i, 6F, ss. (90sts)

Inc Rnd 11 :

ch2, 4F, [F2i, 14F]x5, F2i, 10F, ss. (96sts)

Inc Rnd 12 :

ch2, 6F, [F2i, 15F]x5, F2i, 9F, ss. (102sts)

Inc Rnd 13 :

ch2, 8F, [F2i, 16F]x5, F2i, 8F, ss. (108sts)

Inc Rnd 14 :

ch2, 10F, [F2i, 17F]x5, F2i, 7F, ss. (114sts)

Inc Rnd 15 :

ch2, 12F, [F2i, 18F]x5, F2i, 6F, ss. (120sts)

Inc Rnd 16 :

ch2, 14F, [F2i, 19F]x5, F2i, 5F, ss. (126sts)

Inc Rnd 17 :

ch2, 16F, [F2i, 20F]x5, F2i, 4F, ss. (132sts)

Inc Rnd 18 :

ch2, 18F, [F2i, 21F]x5, F2i, 3F, ss. (138sts)

Inc Rnd 19 :

ch2, 20F, [F2i, 22F]x5, F2i, 2F, ss. (144sts)

Inc Rnd 20 :

ch2, 22F, [F2i, 23F]x5, F2i, F, ss. (150sts)

Inc Rnd 21 :

ch2, [24F, F2i]x6, ss. (156sts)

Inc Rnd 22 :

ch2, [F2i, 38F]x4, ss. (160sts)

Inc Rnd 23 :

ch2, 2F, [F2i, 39F]x3, F2i, 37F, ss. (164sts)

Inc Rnd 24 :

ch2, 4F, [F2i, 40F]x3, F2i, 36F, ss. (168sts)

Inc Rnd 25 :

ch2, 6F, [F2i, 41F]x3, F2i, 35F, ss. (172sts)

Inc Rnd 26 :

ch2, 8F, [F2i, 42F]x3, F2i, 34F, with Yarn1 ss. (176sts)

Info :

Mark stitches for making B3i: pm in 1st F of Rnd 26, [sk 21F, pm in next F]x7 (21F rem to 1st F). (176sts)

— Bag sides :

Info :

Chart 2 on next page. Written instructions do not remind you to switch yarn. Make highlighted stitches with Yarn2, all other stitches with Yarn1.

Rnd 27 :

(RS): with Yarn1 ch2 (counts as 1st B of B3i), shallow B2i in 1st F from pr (counts as 2nd and 3rd B of B3i), [*F2t, 17F, F2t*, shallow B3i]x7, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 28 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in same st (in ch-2 from pr; counts as 2nd B of B2i), [*B, B2i, F2t, 15F, F2t*, B2i]x7, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 29 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd B of B2i), [*3B, B2i, F2t, 13F, F2t*, B2i]x7, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 30 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr, [*2B, F, 2B, B2i, F2t, 11F, F2t, B2i, 5B, B2i, F2t, 11F, F2t*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 31 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in ch-2 from pr, [*3B, F, 3B, B2i, F2t, 9F, F2t*, B2i]x7, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 32 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*4B, F3i, 5B, F2t, 7F, F2t, B2i, 9B, B2i, F2t, 7F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 33 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*2B, B2t, F2i, hdc bet F's, F, hdc in bet F's, F2i, B2t, 3B, F2i, 3B, B2i, F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts), F2t, 5F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 34 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), 2 F2i, B in hdc, F, B in hdc, 2 F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts), 2B, F2t, 3F, F2t, B2i, B, F2i, B2t, 5B, B2i, F2i, B2i, F2t, 3F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Info :

Shift beginning of round next to the embossed element to minimize visibility of ch-2 at the beg of each round: turn to WS, 7ss (in prev 7sts: F, 4B, B2i), turn.

Rnd 35 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, B2i, F, B2i, 3F, F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts), B, F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, 2 F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts), B3t, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), 2F2i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, 2F2i, B2t (1st leg in 2 posts) , B3t, B2t]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 36 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B (in 2 posts), 5F, B2i, B, F, B, B2i, 5F, 2 B (1st in 2 posts), F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts), B2i, 3B, F2i, 3F, B3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts; 2nd leg in 3 posts), 3F, F2i, 3B, B2i, F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts)*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 37 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B, F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, F3i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t, 2B (finish with Yarn1), with Yarn2 F (in 3 posts of F3t) and finish with Yarn1, 4B, B2i, 4F, F3t (2nd leg in 3 posts), 4F, B2i, 4B (finish last B with Yarn1), with Yarn2 F (in 3 posts); finish with Yarn1]*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Info :

Video Part 7 shows Rnds 35 and 37: https://youtu.be/7JA8oI7lNzU. Shift beg of rnd next to the embossed element to minimize visibility of ch-2 at the beg of each round.

Rnd 38 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in same st (in 1st B after F from pr; counts as 2nd B of B2i), [*8B (6th in F; finish last B with Yarn1), with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts; finish with Yarn1), 4B, F2i, hdc in bet F's, F, hdc in bet F's, F2i, 4B (finish last B with Yarn1), with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts); finish with Yarn1, 8B (3rd in F), B2i, 3F, F3t (2nd leg in 3 posts), 3F*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 39 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in same st (in ch-2 from pr; counts as 2nd B of B2i), [*B2i, 9B (last is shallow B in F3t), 2 B2t, 2 F2i, B in hdc, F, B in hdc, 2 F2i, 2 B2t, 6B, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 7F, F2i*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

— Continuing Bag Sides (Rnds 40-56 preview) :

Rnd 40 :

ch2 (counts as 1st B of B2i), B in same st (in ch-2 from pr), [*10B, B2t, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, B2i, F, B2i, 3F, F2i, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), B2t, 10B, B2i, F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts; 2nd leg in 3 posts)*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 41 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 1st B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*10B, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 5F, B2i, B, F, B, B2i, 5F, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 10B, B2t, F3i (in 3 posts)*, B2t]x3, rep bet *'s, sk ch-2, ss in 1st B.

Rnd 42 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*10B (last in 2 posts), F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, F3i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t, 2B]*, rep bet *'s, sk ch-2, ss in 1st B.

Rnd 43 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*9B and finish last st with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts) and finish with Yarn1, 4B, F2i, hdc in bet F's, F, hdc in bet F's, F2i, 4B and finish last st with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts) and finish with Yarn1, 9B, B2t (2nd leg in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, F2i*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 44 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr (counts as 2nd leg of B2t), [*9B (last is shallow B in F3t), 2 B2t, 2 F2i, B in hdc, F, B in hdc, 2 F2i, 2 B2t, 9B, 2 F2i*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 45 :

ch2 (counts as 1st leg of B2t), B in 2nd B after ch-2 from pr, [*6B, B2t, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 5B, B2i, F2i*, B2i]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 46 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*6B, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 5F, B2i, B, F, B, B2i, 5F, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), 7B (last in 2 posts), F and finish with Yarn1, fish stripe: with Yarn1 9F and finish with Yarn2, F*, B (in 2 posts)]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 47 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*2B (2nd in 2 posts), F2t, F, F2t, B2i, 2B, F3i, 2B, B2i, F2t, F, F2t, 3B (1st in 2 posts), F2i, 2 B2t, F2i, 9F, F2i, 2 B2t, F2i*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 48 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*2B and finish last B with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts) and finish st with Yarn1, 4B, F2i, hdc in bet F's, F, hdc in bet F's, F2i, 4B and finish last B with Yarn1, with Yarn2 F3t (1st and 3rd legs in 2 posts) and finish st with Yarn1, 3B, F2i, F, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), F, F2i*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2. fish stripe: with Yarn1 11F and finish with Yarn2.

Rnd 49 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*3B (last is shallow B in F3t), 2 B2t, 2 F2i, B in hdc, F, B in hdc, 2 F2i, 2 B2t, 4B (1st is shallow B in F3t), F2i, F, F2t (1st leg in next F, sk B2t, 2nd leg in next F), F in same st as 2nd leg of prev F2t, 12F, F2t (1st leg in same st as last of 12F), sk B2t, 2nd leg in next F, F, F2i*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Rnd 50 :

ch2 (counts as B), [*B, B2t, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), F2i, 3F, B2i, F, B2i, 3F, F2i, B2t (both legs in 2 posts), B2t, 2B, F2i, F, F2t*, B]x3, rep bet *'s, ss in 2nd ch of beg ch-2.

Info :

Continue following Chart 2 for rounds 26-86. Highlighted stitches are made with Yarn2 (all front post sts except fish stripes). Video references throughout pattern support many of these rounds.

— Upper edge backing :

Info :

To achieve consistent gauge throughout the pattern, 16sts are decreased in order to align the gauges of sc blo and F stitches. Work Dec Rnd 70 and Rnds 71-86 as written to prepare upper edge backing.

Dec Rnd 70 :

ch1 (doesn't count as st), sc blo in same st, [*3sc blo, sc2tog blo, 8sc blo, sc2tog blo*, 5sc blo]x7, rep bet *'s, 4sc blo, ss blo in 1st sc. (144sts)

Rnds 71-86 :

ch1 (doesn't count as st), sc blo in same st, 143sc blo, ss blo in 1st sc. Fasten off after Rnd 86. (144sts)

— Reinforcing upper edge backing with buckram :

Info :

Cut interfacing strip approximately 7cm x 80cm (2 3/4" x 31 1/2"). Apply to wrong side of upper edge backing, overlap short edges, baste and stitch. Use zig-zag or stretchable stitch to secure. Fold backing in and hand-stitch the edge to the wrong side if not lining the bag.

— Handles :

Handle attaching strip (x4) :

Row 1 (RS): locate 8 middle sts of Round 69, positioned above any fish, join Yarn2 in front post of 1st of those 8 sts, ch5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, 3sc, turn (4sc). Pictures show 10 sc rows, but for Corfu bag make only 1. Fasten off leaving 20cm/8" tail for seam.

Spiral cord handles (x2) :

With Yarn2 leave 30cm/12" tail, make 78cm/30 3/4" long 8-sts spiral cord, starting with one 4sc-row (video and pictures show 10 rows). Fasten off, leaving 30cm/12" tail. Measure while cord is fully stretched. Keep in mind spiral cord has stretch; insert narrow non-stretchable tape inside cord after creating approx 1cm of the cord to reduce stretching and sew tape ends to beginning and end of cord securely.

Loop at the end of spiral cord handle (x4) :

Measure and mark a distance of 15cm/5 7/8" from each end of the handle. Make loop at end as shown in photos and secure with loop seam cover strip.

Attach handles to the bag (x4) :

Insert handle attaching strip into the loop at the end of the handle ensuring loop seam cover is facing inner side of bag. Thread tapestry needle with 30cm/12" tail and sew attaching strip to the upper edge backing using small invisible stitches to secure seam; fold strip to WS and sew each stitch at the edge of the strip securely to both loops of one of the 8 stitches from which the strip was started. Secure seam by tying off and weaving in loose tail.

— Loop seam cover (x4) :

Info :

With Yarn2 ch14 and work 9 rows of slip stitch rib. Fasten off leaving 30cm/12" tail. Thread tapestry needle with tail and position strip over loop seam. Use overcast stitch to close short edges and secure seam. Weave in beginning tail when complete.

— Optional lining & Finishing :

Info :

Optional lining instructions: measure finished bag to determine length and width, add seam allowances as given, stitch sides together and overcast upper edge. Insert drawstring into 2cm/3/4" slit at bottom if desired. Tuck lining under upper edge backing and baste and hand-stitch with small invisible stitches. Weave in all ends. Hand-wash in lukewarm water, reshape and lay flat to dry.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the upper edge backing interfacing to the wrong side of the upper edge, overlap short edges, baste and hand-stitch the backing in place before attaching handles.
  • Prepare spiral cord handles and make loop seam covers, then thread handle attaching strip into the loop and sew the strip to the bag’s upper edge backing using small invisible stitches for a secure finish.
  • Position handles so that each handle set is spaced evenly: locate 8 middle sts of Round 69 for each attaching strip and sew strips securely to the back loops of the upper edge backing.
  • If adding lining, stitch the side seams of the lining, press allowances, insert drawstring into 2cm slit at bottom, and hand-stitch the lining tuck under the upper edge backing with small invisible stitches.
  • Weave in all ends, trim any excess interfacing, and check the bag shape; block lightly if needed to even the motifs.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use Yarn1 (background color) for all back post stitches, hdc and the last ss in each round, and use Yarn2 for all front post stitches except fish stripes.
  • 💡When switching colors, use the next color to finish the previous stitch — make the last yarn-over with the new color so the change is neat.
  • 💡Mark the stitches indicated (for example for B3i at Rnd 26) to ensure correct placement of embossed elements around the bag.
  • 💡Basting the interfacing and sewing it to the backing is recommended because interfacing does not fuse well to crocheted fabric; this keeps the upper edge stable during use.
  • 💡Shift the beginning of the round next to the embossed element to minimize the visibility of ch-2 at the beginning of each round as instructed in the pattern.

This Corfu Bag pattern brings together embossed texture, elegant fish and leaf motifs, and a smart, reinforced finish to create a durable and beautiful tote. Whether you carry groceries or treasures, the bag keeps its shape and looks stunning on the shoulder. Enjoy the detailed charts, photo steps and video links included to guide you to a professional result. 🧶 Happy crocheting and enjoy making something gorgeous! ✨

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FAQs

What size will the finished piece be?

Approximate bag measurements: Length 41.5cm (16 3/8") from bottom center to upper edge; Width 38.8cm (15 1/4"); Loaded bag height 32cm (12 5/8"); Handles length 64cm (25 1/4").

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes, you can substitute yarns but this will change gauge and final size; the pattern uses Scheepjes Catona as shown and a 2.75mm hook. If using a different weight, check gauge and adjust hook and quantities accordingly.

Do I need prior crochet experience for this pattern?

This is an intermediate-level pattern using front and back post double crochet, increases/decreases in posts and color switching; you should be comfortable with post stitches and reading charts for best results.

How long does this project typically take to complete?

Most crocheters can expect 12-15 hours to complete the bag, depending on experience, chart reading and finishing steps such as interfacing and lining.